Yeah, but Heather's moniker of "Dolly Parton's" is starting to grow on me.
I'll take my 4430’s with a pair of Pamela Anderson's thank you very much.
Nice find.
JBL 4430 newbie
- Thread starter AVSpecialist
- Start date
Yeah, but Heather's moniker of "Dolly Parton's" is starting to grow on me.
I'll take my 4430’s with a pair of Pamela Anderson's thank you very much.
Nice find.
IMO, great find and nice of your company to let you have them. Anything else in storage??? 
I wonder if the QSC amp was configured with a crossover frequency dialed in so that the vocals and top end were rolled off, i.e. A sub woofer amp? Also, most pro amps need more voltage drive to reach full power so a consumer device like an iPod unless plugged in might not be stout enough to drive this amp well. Consumer amps typically need less voltage to reach full power.
As for the woofers, whether you or the tech do the refoams, get well fitted foams (Rick Cobb highly recommended), and be sure they are affixed / glued to the back edge of the cone only, not the front. Rick includes a test tone CD or use your signal gen app to play test tones at low volume to check centering and freedom from distortion. That way you don't have to cut or replace the dome for shimming method. Be sure to carefully remove and save the front outer neoprene gaskets and reglue them when you have finished the refoam. This will preserve the OEM appearance. While you have the woofers out, you can touch up the bright front metal frame edges with a med-coarse file but round off the edges so you don't get metal burrs or splinters. This will look nice when the grilles are off.
Since the speakers' mids and high end came back with the new amp, you probably don't need to replace the compression driver diaphragms just yet. If you have time and inclination, you could open the cabinets up to check the type or model number of the compression driver, one used an aluminum dome, the rest used titanium. If there is no apparent distortion with properly filtered signal, I'd suggest playing them for some time with familiar music and see how you like them. They do top out at 15-16khz though so don't expect whopping top end.
As for any replacement diaphragm, use only OEM certified JBL (expensive) or Radian brand (a little less expensive). All the rest that are cheap are just that, cheap Far East copies which do not perform anywhere near JBL spec or quality. If you want JBL performance, you must use JBL parts.
The only other weak point is the internal / external crossover switch which usually needs a very good DeOxit cleaning and preservative, or removed entirely.
I wonder if the QSC amp was configured with a crossover frequency dialed in so that the vocals and top end were rolled off, i.e. A sub woofer amp? Also, most pro amps need more voltage drive to reach full power so a consumer device like an iPod unless plugged in might not be stout enough to drive this amp well. Consumer amps typically need less voltage to reach full power.
As for the woofers, whether you or the tech do the refoams, get well fitted foams (Rick Cobb highly recommended), and be sure they are affixed / glued to the back edge of the cone only, not the front. Rick includes a test tone CD or use your signal gen app to play test tones at low volume to check centering and freedom from distortion. That way you don't have to cut or replace the dome for shimming method. Be sure to carefully remove and save the front outer neoprene gaskets and reglue them when you have finished the refoam. This will preserve the OEM appearance. While you have the woofers out, you can touch up the bright front metal frame edges with a med-coarse file but round off the edges so you don't get metal burrs or splinters. This will look nice when the grilles are off.
Since the speakers' mids and high end came back with the new amp, you probably don't need to replace the compression driver diaphragms just yet. If you have time and inclination, you could open the cabinets up to check the type or model number of the compression driver, one used an aluminum dome, the rest used titanium. If there is no apparent distortion with properly filtered signal, I'd suggest playing them for some time with familiar music and see how you like them. They do top out at 15-16khz though so don't expect whopping top end.
As for any replacement diaphragm, use only OEM certified JBL (expensive) or Radian brand (a little less expensive). All the rest that are cheap are just that, cheap Far East copies which do not perform anywhere near JBL spec or quality. If you want JBL performance, you must use JBL parts.
The only other weak point is the internal / external crossover switch which usually needs a very good DeOxit cleaning and preservative, or removed entirely.
AVSpecialist
New Member
IMO, great find and nice of your company to let you have them. Anything else in storage???
I wonder if the QSC amp was configured with a crossover frequency dialed in so that the vocals and top end were rolled off, i.e. A sub woofer amp? Also, most pro amps need more voltage drive to reach full power so a consumer device like an iPod unless plugged in might not be stout enough to drive this amp well. Consumer amps typically need less voltage to reach full power.
As for the woofers, whether you or the tech do the refoams, get well fitted foams (Rick Cobb highly recommended), and be sure they are affixed / glued to the back edge of the cone only, not the front. Rick includes a test tone CD or use your signal gen app to play test tones at low volume to check centering and freedom from distortion. That way you don't have to cut or replace the dome for shimming method. Be sure to carefully remove and save the front outer neoprene gaskets and reglue them when you have finished the refoam. This will preserve the OEM appearance. While you have the woofers out, you can touch up the bright front metal frame edges with a med-coarse file but round off the edges so you don't get metal burrs or splinters. This will look nice when the grilles are off.
Since the speakers' mids and high end came back with the new amp, you probably don't need to replace the compression driver diaphragms just yet. If you have time and inclination, you could open the cabinets up to check the type or model number of the compression driver, one used an aluminum dome, the rest used titanium. If there is no apparent distortion with properly filtered signal, I'd suggest playing them for some time with familiar music and see how you like them. They do top out at 15-16khz though so don't expect whopping top end.
As for any replacement diaphragm, use only OEM certified JBL (expensive) or Radian brand (a little less expensive). All the rest that are cheap are just that, cheap Far East copies which do not perform anywhere near JBL spec or quality. If you want JBL performance, you must use JBL parts.
The only other weak point is the internal / external crossover switch which usually needs a very good DeOxit cleaning and preservative, or removed entirely.
I think it was mostly a low voltage thing. I have a little 8watt amp that I'm testing with now. Highs sound fine. I will probably just clean some stuff up and fix the woofer and let them rock.
Still working out what kind of receiver I want. I love the looks of the old yamaha's, but these will probably be hooked to much more modern equipment as well so considering a newer AVR as well.
Any problem with playing music at under 4watts with the foams attached but basically trash?
Yes, you can trash cone and voice coil on a great woofer leading to a ~$250 cone replacement for each.
Don't ruin a nice set of speakers like that.
AVSpecialist
New Member
Ordered the Rick Cobb foam replacements. Should have them before the end of the week. Looking forward to seeing what these sound like when opened up. Hopefully by this weekend I will have them rocking.
GD70
Lunatic Member
This has to be one of the best free scores in recent memory!
If I had been you when they were spotted, I would have wet my pants!
Zonker is the guy to help with any questions.
Reforming the woofers is easy, take your time cleaning the baskets and carefully removing as much original foam from the cone edges. I use my fingers to rub it off and a plastic taping blade to very gently scrape it off, again very slowly. It's ok if original glue residue remains on the cones. The smoother the better the new surrounds will mate to the glued surfaces.
We're all pretty excited for you and this project, so please keep the pics coming!
Congrats and cheers!
Glenn
If I had been you when they were spotted, I would have wet my pants!
Zonker is the guy to help with any questions.
Reforming the woofers is easy, take your time cleaning the baskets and carefully removing as much original foam from the cone edges. I use my fingers to rub it off and a plastic taping blade to very gently scrape it off, again very slowly. It's ok if original glue residue remains on the cones. The smoother the better the new surrounds will mate to the glued surfaces.
We're all pretty excited for you and this project, so please keep the pics coming!
Congrats and cheers!
Glenn
AVSpecialist
New Member
Well they made it home and the foam kit should show up today or tomorrow at the latest. I'm still working out how I want to power them. I will update with some pictures soon.
I'm considering making some more grills for them and keeping the originals (need to redo fabric on one of them and clean the other).
I'm considering making some more grills for them and keeping the originals (need to redo fabric on one of them and clean the other).
AVSpecialist
New Member
So got the kit in and did one speaker so far. Everything went smoothly with cleanup and such. Only problem I am having is at relatively high volumes I've got a little rattle. I ran the 30hz tone while I glued, but I may not have had the level high enough. Either way it sounds fine, no distortion at normal volumes. It starts to rattle at annoying the neighbors levels. Here are some pictures mid way through and of the back of the woofer.
AVSpecialist
New Member
I finally got both speakers together and got a Yamaha WXA-50 to power them. Now I think its time to start going through Zonker92's mods and seeing if I can get some more bass out of these. Bass is pretty nonexistent right now and it would be nice to have a little more bump in them. I will get a picture up soon after I redo the grill fabric.
Even with the lack of bass, I have to say these are some easy listening speakers. I pretty much turn them on when I get home and have something going through them until I go to bed.
Even with the lack of bass, I have to say these are some easy listening speakers. I pretty much turn them on when I get home and have something going through them until I go to bed.
There should be plenty of bass from those speakers ( if the woofers are healthy ).
All JBL woofers of that vintage should have the internal foam filters gently removed ( before they disintegrate and migrate into the VoiceCoil gap ).
I fear ( due to your descriptions so far ) that some crumbled foam has already made it into the VC gap ( that'll impede cone movement eventually leading to VC rub & possible burn-out ) and also sound like a funny sort of rubbing distortion.
There are a few threads about how to do remove the foam-filter over at LHF.
The most comprehensive way of cleaning the VC gap is to have a reconing shop remove the dust-cap and then gently clean the gap ( including vacuuming it ) to remove the foam debris.
This procedure could have been done ( had you requested it ) by having a service center do the new foams .
All JBL woofers of that vintage should have the internal foam filters gently removed ( before they disintegrate and migrate into the VoiceCoil gap ).
I fear ( due to your descriptions so far ) that some crumbled foam has already made it into the VC gap ( that'll impede cone movement eventually leading to VC rub & possible burn-out ) and also sound like a funny sort of rubbing distortion.
There are a few threads about how to do remove the foam-filter over at LHF.
The most comprehensive way of cleaning the VC gap is to have a reconing shop remove the dust-cap and then gently clean the gap ( including vacuuming it ) to remove the foam debris.
This procedure could have been done ( had you requested it ) by having a service center do the new foams .
AVSpecialist
New Member
Thanks for the info EarlK. You are probably right about the foam breaking down. I'm not sure I would describe it as distortion. There is no scraping sound it sounds more like the foam surround slapping the basket. Either way it may be worth having them rebuilt by a JBL pro.
Pull the woofers and note the wiring to each woofer. The wiring must be the same on each side, its easy to get it confused and miswire the woofers out of phase with respect to each other, that would explain the lack of bass and sometimes poor image integration with the midrange. Sometimes on early 4430 versions the woofer has male/female faston connectors which mate precisely and correctly with corresponding connectors on the wiring (see grn and grn/blk wires). Other times, the frame has push to open clamping connectors and this is where it can get confusing. Make sure they are the same wiring connections for each (try grn to red and grn/black to black first) and then listen for bass and strong central image on a mono signal to both channels. Of course, ensure that the speaker wiring from amp to speaker is consistent + to + and - to - on each channel. If the bass or image still seems off, then reverse the two woofer connections and try again.
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/studio monitor series/4430lr.pdf
Also, look carefully at the spider edge glue joint to the frame all around the circumference of the spider - sometimes these come loose and flap around. Same for the spider to voice coil joint. Double check the cone edge glue joint to the surround and same for the surround to frame.
Last edited:
MLarx
New Member
Keep in mind these speakers are REAL STUDIO MONITORS,there not supposed to color, only reproduce what is actually there.The lack of low frequency could be your placement, possible phase problem ie wired wrong, also these speakers were intended to be installed in a sofit which if done proper is an expensive enchilada .THE SOLUTION buy a Veledyne powered sub NOT A CHEAP ONE, then hold on. I have this exact system in my house You won't be sorry.
MLarx
New Member
Whoops its Velodyne powered sub. They have several on ebay.
twiiii
Lunatic Member
You can read all about the the development of the 4430 a nd down load the owners manual for the 4430 and 4435 its bigger cousin. Just google JBL 4430 and your set. 44430/4435 are some of the best 2 way speakers designed for monitor use produced by JBL till the M2 came along. Both are moderately efficient handle the 200 watts of the 850 quite well with fairly low distortion. be cause of the design of the woofer to get the best rendition of recordings you want fairly short listening distances, less than 10 ft, unless you have. very soft well padded room, All jBL monitors are little bright as they are for critical analysis while making studio recordings of live musicians and electronic instruments. You have to orient the speakers properly in relation to the listening position to get the smoothest most accurate bass response. These speakers won't blow down walls like its bigger brothers with dual woofers, but still can be quite impressive. I know the bass rolls off a bit to soon and the highs are limited to around 17.5 kHz, but that more than necessary for most male folks with their compromised hearing.