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JBL Speaker driver metal frame rust restoration method?

Viran

New Member
I came across a nice sounding pair of JBL 4313b and for a great price, I bought it without any hesitation. However, due to their age theres going to be some cosmetic defects on them. My question is that inorder to restore the rust on speaker and tweeter driver frames, what kinds of things and methods should I use to bring them back to their glory?

Thanks!

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I believe these speaker frames are made from Aluminum. So, it's likely not rust, but something else? Probably oxidation, and some other staining, could be from Cigarettes, etc, giving that brownish look.

Before using any physical means, I would see if you could somehow acquire a liquid Aluminum Cleaner if possible? In other words, first try a liquid, but as you guessed it, one will need to be careful, Apply any fluids to an MF Towel first, and stay away from any cones, surrounds, domes, etc.

Maybe even try something like Simple Green, or another All Purpose Cleaner?

The other is much riskier, and that is to use something like a very small piece of 3M Scotchbrite Pad, and in the same direction as the grain lightly clean, slowly, and again very carefully clean and polish by abrasion.

I would highly caution against using anything like Steel Wool! Not around Magnets! Not sure about sandpapers, there are some that won't easily shed like crocus paper. But others might likely cause their own separate problems, and in any case, you do not want to do more harm than good. Can't stress this enough.

If I were to do such, I would of course remove the drivers. Be careful about wiring of you do.

I know some might say what's important is that all the drivers work correctly, are the correct drivers, etc.
And some might comment and say that when the Grills are on, you don't see that anyway.

I'm not sure if the folks over at the Lansing Heritage Forum might have some better answers than I, so you could pose these questions you have there. Lots of people there with very good experience. Especially with any of the 4300 Series Monitors.
 
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I would make some nice grills and not worry about it unless the rust effects the sound quality of the drivers. I would be more concerned about the crossover capacitors as a priority first.
 
I would make some nice grills and not worry about it unless the rust effects the sound quality of the drivers. I would be more concerned about the crossover capacitors as a priority first.

Of course, Crossover Caps and such other important checks should be done throughout if such hasn't been.

The suggestions I mentioned earlier, are what I would say is something that can be pretty risky. If you could work with the capabilities, the finesse, and expertise of say a Watchmaker-Jeweler, then I might say good luck..

Depends upon your personal skills to attempt some sort of cosmetic and properly done fix, with no harm or alterations of how the drivers supposed to look factory fresh.

Trust there are people who would take idiotic, risky methods in an attempt, say using something like a Dremel Tool, or such.

If they were raw frames, such would be a lot easier for sure. Not sure what can be done about the Tweeters? I assume that central Dust Cap is something you do not wish to touch! Push in one of the Domes, then you're screwed!
 
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I would recommend IPA on a q-tip first. Might take a lot of q-tips but it'd be worth it in the end. Looks a lot like the stuff I've had to remove from old camera bodies that have seen better days.
 
I would recommend IPA on a q-tip first. Might take a lot of q-tips but it'd be worth it in the end. Looks a lot like the stuff I've had to remove from old camera bodies that have seen better days.

But definitely not anything stronger, especially not a chemical like Acetone. Very aggressive stuff, and it loves eating plastics.
 
@markd51 - read the bottle of Simple Green. It will attack aluminum if you don't rinse it off well.

Yep, probably so. I know I've seen Simple Green eat paint.

Like I had mentioned, there are aluminum cleaners that will remove staining and oxidation, maybe yeah, could be applied with a Q-Tip, and then a follow up with clean water and Q-Tips? I cannot make promises that this is the way to go? But it might be.

Again, I gather those Domes on the 066 Tweeters are fragile and can become dented. I'd say definitely resist the urge to try cleaning them, or touching them with anything.

It's hard to identify what some of it is? Am I getting the impression this pair has no Grills?
 
I know far in the past, I did some form of a wipe down on the exposed frame faces, mostly the LE5-5 Mids Speakers in my 2 pair of L-65 Jubals. What I used at the time, I forget and have no idea?

Just that I took my time, and was careful
 
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We used automatic transmission fluid to remove paint from plastic model railroad rolling stock. Trichloroethylene will do the job but it is very stong and flows easily so you would have to be very careful as to which applicator you would use to scrub the finish. Maybe straight methanol would be a better choice.
 
I'd still start with 99% IPA as it won't leave a residue when it dries. Least harsh fluid first, then if it doesn't work look at harsher liquids.
I wouldn't go near those dust caps with a ten foot pole, but that's just me the conservative speaking.
If the speakers are working and sound good, why mess with that part of them?
 
FYI: Simple Green makes an Aluminum/Aircraft version.
I use it for engine degreasing, so it won't etch aluminum valve covers, etc.
 
It is corrosion and it won't come off, (well, it will never look like new, there will always be dark spots) without mechanical intervention, as in refacing them on a sander for the mid, and a lathe for the tweeter face.
 
Oxalic acid may do the trick, but test it somewhere first just in case.

Here's Barkeeper's Friend used on an 075 phase plug before/after. Wet paper towel, healthy sprinkle of powder, rub away:

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PXL_20210314_215708353.jpg
 
As others have said, that's definitely aluminum and corrosion rather than rust.

It's possible that metal polish such as Flitz may clean up the corrosion (some of it is probably just dirt). Metal polish will make the surface shinier (which may not (or may) be a look you like), but the shine will mellow a bit over time.

The good news is that it appears to be a brushed aluminum surface (rather than smooth). That means that if it is too deep for metal polish to take out, you could likely sand them along the existing grain since the plates are presumably thick solid aluminum. The sandpaper should leave a similar grain to the existing original brushed finish. For the tweeter to match aesthetically, you'd probably have to put the magnet in a lathe and spin it while using sandpaper on the front (being careful near the dome obviously). Use car wax to seal it once done so it doesn't corrode again.
 
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As others have said, that's definitely aluminum and corrosion rather than rust.

It's possible that metal polish such as Flitz may clean up the corrosion (some of it is probably just dirt). Metal polish will make the surface shinier (which may not (or may) be a look you like), but the shine will mellow a bit over time.

The good news is that it appears to be a brushed aluminum surface (rather than smooth). That means that if it is too deep for metal polish to take out, you could likely sand them along the existing grain since the plates are presumably thick solid aluminum. The sandpaper should leave a similar grain to the existing original brushed finish. For the tweeter to match aesthetically, you'd probably have to put the magnet in a lathe and spin it while using sandpaper on the front (being careful near the dome obviously). Use car wax to seal it once done so it doesn't corrode again.
The front cover, for lack of a better term, comes off the 066 tweeter pretty easily, leaving the motor and diaphragm as a separate unit.
 
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