Just got some JBL/UREI 809a studio monitors. One cabinet was destroyed during shipping. The other one is intact but falling apart also. Drivers & crossovers are fine. Everything sounds good. Stock cabinets are 2.25 cubic foot (internal) & ported (3/4 inch mdf). I am going to build new cabinets. These are 2214 woofers with 2416 horn drivers (coaxial). The same woofers used in JBL model L100T. The L100T cabinet is approx 3.3 cubic feet. I'm thinking about making new cabinet to about same 3 cubic feet internal volume with same size port as L100T. I know the woofers will go lower in bigger cabinet. Opinions on whether I should stay with stock UREI volume or go to bigger L100T volume & port? Thanks in advance...
JBL/UREI 809A Studio Monitor Question
Register to hide this ad
We are not always available for fast turnaround technical reference, so be patient when you ask for support, right?
For me, its summer, I have job, a life and a family, and am not always online ....
But yes. I have 2 complete pairs of UREI 809A speakers in my home theater - love them to bits.
One pair for Front mains, one pair for Side surrounds. Factory Cabinets.
Oh, and a 3rd pair of just the drivers, for spares ...
So with yours, tho the boxes are failing, you still have the drivers and crossover cards!
If it were me, I'd get cabinets made to match the originals, since that's what they were designed to work with.
But you're right, the 2214 woofer is pretty solid performer, and can play deeper in a larger box -
If you are doing your own cabinets, it couldn't hurt to make them larger (like the L100T or T3 speakers). I've had 2 different pairs of L100T speakers and they def have more bottom that the UREIs.
Let us know what you decide and how it works for ya!
For me, its summer, I have job, a life and a family, and am not always online ....
But yes. I have 2 complete pairs of UREI 809A speakers in my home theater - love them to bits.
One pair for Front mains, one pair for Side surrounds. Factory Cabinets.
Oh, and a 3rd pair of just the drivers, for spares ...
So with yours, tho the boxes are failing, you still have the drivers and crossover cards!
If it were me, I'd get cabinets made to match the originals, since that's what they were designed to work with.
But you're right, the 2214 woofer is pretty solid performer, and can play deeper in a larger box -
If you are doing your own cabinets, it couldn't hurt to make them larger (like the L100T or T3 speakers). I've had 2 different pairs of L100T speakers and they def have more bottom that the UREIs.
Let us know what you decide and how it works for ya!
What is the JBL or Urei model number for the coaxial driver? You'll also need the foam horn diffuser and am not sure if JBL can still supply it or not given its made of foam (which can degrade over time. Also, even though the 2214 is the basis for the driver, the cone itself is obviously suspended a bit differently due to the coaxial corrugated dustcap / seal at the center of the cone replacing the typical hemispherical dustcap. Refoaming probably isn't an issue (and I'd refoam them if the last time done was more than 5-7 years old, simply for getting them in similar and newly refurbished condition. Would like to see pics from you or Heather showing how they constructed the coaxial unit.
Shame about the cabinets, tell us how the seller and / or shipping company DIDN"T do a good job of packing or shipping. I agree with Heather in that if using them for monitoring, build to OEM specs. If for pleasure and home, consider enlarging (you can always block off volume in a larger cabinet at the expense of weight). Or consider adding a 15" of 18" JBL subwoofer with suitable active filters for both, and leave the original to do its thing leaving well enough alone.
Shame about the cabinets, tell us how the seller and / or shipping company DIDN"T do a good job of packing or shipping. I agree with Heather in that if using them for monitoring, build to OEM specs. If for pleasure and home, consider enlarging (you can always block off volume in a larger cabinet at the expense of weight). Or consider adding a 15" of 18" JBL subwoofer with suitable active filters for both, and leave the original to do its thing leaving well enough alone.
It's UREI 803 model. I know about the foam on the horn mouth. Pretty sure not available anymore. It's a fairly thin open cell type. I'll have to find something close & go with it. Both still have the dense foam on inside (sides) of horn. I think woofers have been refoamed at one time. Still look to be in decent shape. But I will refoam woofers soon. These speakers came from "that" auction site. It was delivered by UPS. We're beat to death. Got a refund so I basically got them for free. Can't complain but wish they would have gotten here intact. First time I've received speakers with cabinets destroyed. Btw, the horn drivers magnet is threaded into woofer. I've been fooling with electronics & speakers for 30 years. I have an Electronics Engineer degree. I have many Altecs & prefer them over anything... JBL are great too.
Last edited:
I was watching a "Classic Albums' show on AXS TV tonight (I recorded it a year or so back and just got around to watching it.)
Its about Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers - Damn the Torpedos ...
And about 8 minutes in I saw this and had to snap a picture ...
Then I had to pull the grills off my front mains, zoom out a bit and take another picture ...
Gotta love those 809As! (I got 2 pair, plus a pair of spare drivers)
Its about Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers - Damn the Torpedos ...
And about 8 minutes in I saw this and had to snap a picture ...
Then I had to pull the grills off my front mains, zoom out a bit and take another picture ...
Gotta love those 809As! (I got 2 pair, plus a pair of spare drivers)
bowtie427ss
Lunatic Member
Changing the volume and/or tuning of the box will have a significant impact on the LF driver's performance in the mid-range where it meets the horn at XO. You really don't want to do that.
L100T can tune lower because it doesn't need flat response from the LF section to go up as high, there's a mid driver to handle those frequencies.
L100T can tune lower because it doesn't need flat response from the LF section to go up as high, there's a mid driver to handle those frequencies.
@hjames I have a bunch of 809's (retrieved from a studio that closed) but all the cabinets are either water damaged or broken. Have you ever seen plans for the OEM cabinets or thoughts about what to build new cabinets out of? I imagine staying with factory dimensions is important as pointed out above but maybe there's a better material to make them out of? @MoparMan, did you ever finish yours?
Thanks for any info.
Thanks for any info.
Never seen plans for the original 809A cabinets - and - UREI has gone through some changes over the years.
I would presume they were similar to JBL cabinets, being a form of particle board, with the added black coating to deaden reverberations
(instead of the Walnut veneer of JBL's consumer gear).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UREI#...red,Recording Electronics Industries, or UREI.
UREI collaborated with Edward M. Long of E.M. Long Associates in Oakland, California to create the 813 family of time-aligned large-format studio monitor speakers, introduced in 1977.
The 813 and subsequent models introduced in 1979, including the 813A, 815A, and 811A, used Altec Lansing and Eminence drivers.
In 1983, financial and quality control problems at Altec led UREI to introduce the 813B, which utilized JBL loudspeaker drivers.
JBL-UREI co-branding (1985 to 1987)
Putnam sold UREI to Harman in 1983, and UREI became a division of JBL Professional. Harman began releasing "JBL-UREI" co-branded products such as the 5547A graphic equalizer in 1986.
I would presume they were similar to JBL cabinets, being a form of particle board, with the added black coating to deaden reverberations
(instead of the Walnut veneer of JBL's consumer gear).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UREI#...red,Recording Electronics Industries, or UREI.
UREI collaborated with Edward M. Long of E.M. Long Associates in Oakland, California to create the 813 family of time-aligned large-format studio monitor speakers, introduced in 1977.
The 813 and subsequent models introduced in 1979, including the 813A, 815A, and 811A, used Altec Lansing and Eminence drivers.
In 1983, financial and quality control problems at Altec led UREI to introduce the 813B, which utilized JBL loudspeaker drivers.
JBL-UREI co-branding (1985 to 1987)
Putnam sold UREI to Harman in 1983, and UREI became a division of JBL Professional. Harman began releasing "JBL-UREI" co-branded products such as the 5547A graphic equalizer in 1986.
Yes, my original cabinets are definately some form of particle board. The kind that buckles and crumbles if it gets wet:-( There's a black paint on them...not exactly textured but almost.
To add to your timeline, mine have a 4 digit code on the back of them I think is a date code. The pair with "0489" (April 89?) say UREI on them. The pair with "0492" (April '92?) say Harmon Electronics. Both have "UREI 803 Coaxial Loudspeaker" in them. The high frequency is also marked 2416H on both pairs.
I'm going to do some more research on the cabinet material to see if I can find something a little sturdier to build new ones out of.
To add to your timeline, mine have a 4 digit code on the back of them I think is a date code. The pair with "0489" (April 89?) say UREI on them. The pair with "0492" (April '92?) say Harmon Electronics. Both have "UREI 803 Coaxial Loudspeaker" in them. The high frequency is also marked 2416H on both pairs.
I'm going to do some more research on the cabinet material to see if I can find something a little sturdier to build new ones out of.
Audiokingman
Active Member
I need to refoam this Urei 803 driver. How do you remove the blue horn?
And, for anyone out there that has refoamed one of these, did you shim the voice coil?
Thank you.
And, for anyone out there that has refoamed one of these, did you shim the voice coil?
Thank you.
I have 6 of those drivers, and have refoamed a couple of them.
I did NOT remove the blue horn, I was just very careful around it. No need to shim.
I got a refoam kit for JBL 2214 Woofers from (ebay member LooneyTunes) Rick Cobb - rcobb@tampabay.rr.com
He provides a CD with Test tones that you use to center the cone when installing the surround.
Clean everything VERY well (I clean with MEK OUTDOORS) to make sure there is adequate fresh air around.
I glue the surround to the back of the speaker cone, let it set up, then glue it to the cast iron frame.
He doesn't like to ship in winter months as the glue may get damaged in cold UPS trucks -
but Aileens tacky glue from Michaels is a suitable replacement.
I've got one (spare) in the basement with a bad surround I need to redo sometime
twiiii
Lunatic Member
I know about them having met the designer at a Syn-aud-con school back when Urei first introduced them using Altec 604 drivers. I would keep the enclosures as original to prevent any peaks in the bass response which would greatly color the sound. The crossover is a very special design and should only be replaced with original capacitor values. I preferred the 813 my self with it lower extension with less bass distortion and greater output capability. Remember that crossover allows the speaker to be time aligned, so no tampering. The JBL driver has a better throat for the coaxial HF horn over the Altec which had some issues. Remember to keep the blue foam on the sectorial horn, too.
Audiokingman
Active Member
Thanks for the tips, but I have installed many new surrounds over the past 8 years or so.... Probably around 1200 or more!! Haha. This is just the first time I've run into a Urei driver.
I done a large similar coaxial Tannoy earlier this year and was able to easily shim to keep the woofer aligned (see pictures). If this horn able is not easily removable, I will just use the 30hz tone.
Attachments
Looked at my 809s today. The hf driver unscrews from the back of the woofer and once removed, reveals 2 screw that hold the horn. The problem is the horn has a spider glued between it and the woofer cone so, in order to remove the horn, you have to undo the spider. Not exactly "non-destructive"!
Last edited:
I had an 809A with cracked, failing surround. I just redid it this week with a kit from Rick Cobb.
The Coaxial tweeter driver is removed while I cleaned all the bad surrounds and old glue off the casting and back of the woofer cone.
I did the usual 2 step process - glue the new surround to the back of the woofer cone.
I did check it with the 30 Hz test tones - then I let it dry overnight,
Next day glue the surround to the speaker frame, and glue down the 4 pieces of the baffle-spacer in place.
Clothespins can hold that down and in place overnight, then, you're done.
The Coaxial tweeter driver is removed while I cleaned all the bad surrounds and old glue off the casting and back of the woofer cone.
I did the usual 2 step process - glue the new surround to the back of the woofer cone.
I did check it with the 30 Hz test tones - then I let it dry overnight,
Next day glue the surround to the speaker frame, and glue down the 4 pieces of the baffle-spacer in place.
Clothespins can hold that down and in place overnight, then, you're done.
Last edited: