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joining the VPI club and had questions.

entreat11

Member
Hi Everyone!
i am about to receive an Aries 3 turntable and im pretty excited, is there anything special i should know or any tips. I believe it has the frosted acrylic platter and the oil damping JMW 10.5i inch arm. It has a silver body shelter cart on there but needs a cantilever and tip, would that be worth to fix? If not what would be an acceptable cart in the 500.00 or less range preferably MM i do not have an MC stage, not much money left honestly after that purchase. I do not have an alignment jig yet for it but to test I was hoping to put a nagaoka mp 110 cart on it for now, would that work to make sure the deck is functioning ok?

Also what is the best way to clean/polish the periphery ring and the hrx weight?

Thank you
michael
 
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I'm about to take some Flitz to my platter for a shine up. Any stainless polish should be ok.
For the cart, I use the VPI alignment tool but I think any protractor is good. The VPI jig is easy to use as it attaches to the spindle and the arm pivot. Watch the video on how to set up the uni-pivot; a bit fussy in the beginning but then it's set and forget. Be careful with the tonearm wire as it acts as the anti-skate is a bit touchy. I set mine at 'neutral.'
With my MP-7 I had good results with a AT VM750SH. The 740ML might be a bit brighter. I didn't like the SLC version MC, it was a bit thin.
The Nagaoka should be fine, make sure you print out a protractor.
Have fun!
Thanks for you help.
It seems like there is some discoloration but not corrosion on the weight and possibly the ring so hopefully that will help to remove that bring the shine back. I have some brasso metal polish so i will try that then. Thanks for the help about the protractor i didn't think to that there was one available online to try and print out for the the vpi. I want to try to use that Nagaoka for now as well as to use the turntable to make sure there are not issues and it holds speed and such.

thanks again!
 
Welcome to the VPI family. A Nagaoka cartridge should work just fine to test everything. As far as cartridge alignment, the VPI alignment jig will get you in the game, but I much prefer a two-point alignment with my VPIs. I've used both a DB Systems protractor and Dr. Feikert's alignment jig.

Shelters are fine cartridges that are known to work well with VPI unipivot 'arms, so definitely worth investigating a retip.

Good luck with your new 'table. If you have any nore questions, there are any number of VPI owners on AK who will be only too happy to help out.
 
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Welcome to the VPI family. A Nagaoka cartridge should work just fine to test everything. As far as cartridge alignment, the VPI alignment jig will get you in the game, but I much prefer a two-point alignment with my VPIs. I've used both a DB Systems protractor and Dr. Feikert's alignment jig.

Shelters are fine cartridges that are known to work well with VPI unipivot 'arms, so definitely worth investigating a retip.

Good luck with your new 'table. If you have any nore questions, there are any number of VPI owners on AK who will be only too happy to help out.
thank you! I think i might purchase one of the jigs soon. Two point alignments are what i think i used when i did my 1200, but the one i have is for a 9" arm only. will check a print out online for now.

thanks i am sure i will have. more questions once i start to setup.
Michael
 
Personnally I don't like the uni-pivot tone arms, so I have a 10.5 inch Fat Boy gimbaled arm. The sight of the arm twisting while play a record gives me the creeps.
I read pros and cons on them ill try and see. Gimbaled arms are beautiful though......
 
Unipivot - genius and far superior to a gimbaled design
AS - may it RIP
VPI alignment jig - spot on with minimal effort

Follow the VPI way and you'll be amazed at just how good your collection sounds.
 
Unipivot - genius and far superior to a gimbaled design
AS - may it RIP
VPI alignment jig - spot on with minimal effort

Follow the VPI way and you'll be amazed at just how good your collection sounds
Ill give it a try and purchase the jig to start. thank you!
 
Unipivot - genius and far superior to a gimbaled design
AS - may it RIP
VPI alignment jig - spot on with minimal effort

Follow the VPI way and you'll be amazed at just how good your collection sounds.
I disagree. Unipivots are not for everyone. And also finicky handling. VPI is equally finicky in use for some users. I never diss VPI's quality most of the time. But when one lives away from a VPI dealer, VPI needs to be better about direct support for these users.
 
The fear surrounding the what ifs with the unipivot are unwarranted and disappear the moment the stylus hits the groove. OP - follow setup to the letter from the manual and you'll see first hand.
 
Some of my frustration surrounding this topic is that VPI has kind of a recipe, if you will. For the longest time, I sat on the fence about the unipivot based on what others had written. It's this. It's that. Death wobble . . . blah, blah, blah. I had pretty much decided that I was going to jump in with both feet with a Prime Signature and was saving my pennies. [Ya'll know I'm a McIntosh guy . . . the meter on the MT-10 is just silly and the wall-wart power supply non-acceptable for a tt of that dollar figure so it wasn't even a contender.] Still, I didn't like the fishing line Anti-Skating apparatus (just like found on cheap belt driven 'phile tables) but it seemed like twisting the tonearm harness was an acceptable solution for AS. I figured if Fremer liked the unipivot, then I could too.

Then, along comes this deal on a brand new Avenger for less than the PS - I just had to jump so I did. Dude . . . When I got the tt, and read through the setup instructions (which do in fact leave much to desire) it became clear to me that HW never took much stock in AS to begin with and his designs didn't require it for playback. Right then and there, I was like - You know what, I need to set this tt up precisely as guided and try that first. If I don't like the results, VPI has given me all the solutions - right up to the gimbaled arm they offer for the tt. When in Rome . . . I found that the setup jig worked perfectly and I had never been able to set up a cart so quickly. [A while ago, I compared the results with my db Protractor - my long time fave. Guess what? Spot on at both points. And I mean spot on. That is not an accident, it's simply geometry. So, when someone tells you that you have to align at two points and that's why the VPI setup tool isn't worth nothin', they never used it.]

When you buy a product like a VPI, you're buying into the designers IP. They invented it. They should know best how to get the best from it - what it's capable of. I bought in hook, line, and sinker and, I've just never looked back. [If you buy a Krell, then you're buying into Dan D's mantra - follow his recipe and you'll get what he intends. Same goes here.] You can always use the AS, upgrade to a gimbaled arm, etc. Heck, they even now offer a dual point uni-pivot for folks that fear the Death Wobble which hasn't been a problem here - and I've tried multiple cartridges. I never felt then need for any of that. No speed stablizer. No periphery ring. No fancy power cord. I just put it on a level surface and set up to the letter. And it just blows my skirt up in a major way every time I put a record on the platter. It simply has to be heard to be believed.

That's why I'm at odds with the Prime 21 or any VPI that comes with a gimbaled arm right out of the box. You don't even know what you could have had. It's one thing to start with the foundation HW set and then decide you can do better through scientific method. But don't make the mistake of bypassing the foundation altogether - otherwise, you may never hear what the tt is capable of. It's a whole lot easier to spend you money towards worse than better in this hobby.
 
I have been looking and reading a bit and it seems like there are not a lot of people that have the older Aries 3, some have the newer ones that were redone with with the classic platter. Most users have the classic (which i almost bought a little over a year ago), Scoutmaster (i almost bought a super scoutmaster as well and some of the others. I wonder why, i wonder if the price point was to high, the look or, maybe not as good? But checking the specs it is pretty good (with the exception of the platter) even as the prime sig.

I was also checking and it seems that I am able to use a drop of synthetic motor oil to oil the SAMA and and white lithium grease for the inverted bearing spindle. Other than that not much else is needed other the alignment of the arm from what i see.
 
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I have been looking and reading a bit and it seems like there are not a lot of people that have the older Aries 3, some have the newer ones that were redone with with the classic platter. Most users have the classic (which i almost bought a little over a year ago), Scoutmaster (i almost bought a super scoutmaster as well and some of the others. I wonder why, i wonder if the price point was to high, the look or, maybe not as good? But checking the specs it is pretty good (with the exception of the platter) even as the prime sig.

I was also checking and it seems that I am able to use a drop of synthetic motor oil to oil the SAMA and and white lithium grease for the inverted bearing spindle. Other than that not much else is needed other the alignment of the arm from what i see.
Oh, they're out there, their owners just don't part with them very often. I have an Aries I with the lead-loaded black acrylic platter.

Your info for lube is correct.
 
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