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Jolida SJ-502A

JMinardi

New Member
I just bought a SJ-502A and trying to troubleshoot. The schematics I found don't exactly match up 100% and want to make sure the voltages are correct before shoving $500 + in tubes into it seeing how it is 20 years old or so. So at the moment B+ is 530v, -B is at -72v, +B1 is at 502v and +B2 is at 500v (after climbing up for a few seconds). No idea if this is within spec and calling Black Ice Audio the guy on the phone wants nothing to do with me. I have 2 different schematics (one of which is in the all over the internet) and the other more closely resembles mine. But I'm going with the scheme online here and the differences are R14 and R15 are 12k, C7 and C12 caps were omitted I was told in my model, R23 and R24 are 62k/3w, and C6 is a 100u/460v with a polypropylene .22 cap on it as well (which I removed because it was odd). Ebay listed it as working and contacted the seller and got a partial refund because the tubes it came with wouldn't bias and overall tested with odd readings. The listing did state the tubes will need to be replaced. So like I said I want to make sure the voltages are within spec but I can't get a schematic that resembles mine and god only knows who else messed with this amp. I did have to replace the C5 on the end there and didn't seem to make a huge difference but instead on the 500v i was getting more like 490ish before replacement. If someone can get back to me of something I can check, or perhaps replace all of the caps and buy resistors that match the scheme. Want to know what you guys are seeing. I'm uploading the schematics I have and a schematic that I edited a few things on to make it look like my set up. Let me know what you recommend. Also I like fixing stuff but this one I'm scratching my head on.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Can't help with yur schematic..I have a fusion 3502P, which I would imagine is a descendant of your unit .. when it works, it sounds marvelous, which is most of the time..the right channel goes out on occaision, but tapping on right side brings it back ... thinking maybe a relay..is it hard to take cover off etc ?
 
Can't help with yur schematic..I have a fusion 3502P, which I would imagine is a descendant of your unit .. when it works, it sounds marvelous, which is most of the time..the right channel goes out on occaision, but tapping on right side brings it back ... thinking maybe a relay..is it hard to take cover off etc ?

Connection of the tubes or maybe even faulty tubes could cause that i think. Solder joint on the coil leads. How hard do you have to tap it?
 
Don''t want to hijack the thread ...

The amp has all new JJ tubes (3 weeks old) ...Once the RC goes out, I can get the amp to behave by turning it off, then hear a crunching sound in RC, then turning it back on .. the tapping technique requires very slight tapping... plm only occurs when amp is first turned on, after abt 5 mins .... usually plm goes away with one 'treatment'
 
Don''t want to hijack the thread ...

The amp has all new JJ tubes (3 weeks old) ...Once the RC goes out, I can get the amp to behave by turning it off, then hear a crunching sound in RC, then turning it back on .. the tapping technique requires very slight tapping... plm only occurs when amp is first turned on, after abt 5 mins .... usually plm goes away with one 'treatment'
That really sounds like maybe a bad tube..... But the balance adjuster. or volume or any knob..... If you hear static when turning it you need to clean them with electric parts cleaner. Moisture in the air can cause this. Anyways, I've seen a channel cut out that was caused by that.
 
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Voltages will be high until you put all the tubes in to load it down.
Old tubes failed. Tried the new tubes but one started red plating once the voltage reached 300 on +b2. I think I caught it in time but I don't dare try it again as these are expensive tubes. I'm thinking about recapping it and replacing the resistors that match whats on the schematic. Would that be a safe assumption?
 
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