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Jumping into tubes

The amp sounds great with the stock Shuguang tubes. I'm not sure that changing the power tubes will improve the sound, however, you'll notice a change if you swap out the preamp tubes, and in my case, not for the better. I tried Mullard EF95's and all it did was increase the gain. I also tried GE 5654W's and they were microphonic. Went back to the stock 6J1's.

Good to know! I wouldn't want to mess with the sound and be unhappy. I'm really pleased as it is. How long have you had yours? Any issues?
 
I bought the MS-20L about 2 years ago and the MC-10L about a year before that. No problems except the urge to buy more amps. :D
 
Mixed it up with a little Operatic metal (not at The Yamaha SS Volume levels) and was very happy with the sound and didn't really notice any glaring differences in performance or sound quality. To be honest I think it sounded a touch clearer and more responsive than my standard system. Of course the low end lacked that "heavy": punch but still sounded nice. Country plays well also, I'm just pretty picky when it comes to that genre. Picking up a set of Klipsch Tangent 5000s. Will have to try those as well. I still have yet to see what My Modified T100 cabinets sound like. I saw a post bout somebody that had modified their tube amp to have sub-woofer pre outs. Personally I don't see a need for a sub in the system. But hey, I'm just a workin guy with an addiction he can't afford!
 
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I agree. I have the MS-22B as well with Valvo (bugle boy label) 12AX7's from 1957. Sounds fantastic.
 
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I like my tube setup a lot especially hooked up to my Polk Monitor 10s. I've read some comments regarding the "tube" sound saying they were "blown away" by the huge difference in the sound. I was not "blown away" I have listened to SETs in a dealers showroom and I felt that the bass was lacking but it was an 8 watt amp and maybe hooked up to more efficient speakers or just different speakers the bass would have sounded better. I'm not talking about how deep the bass was it was deep enough but too much on the warm (flabby) side for me. I'm not at all sorry I tried tube gear and I'm certainly not sorry with the apparent build quality of the gear I bought. I have several different speakers I can try out but they gain so much weight every year their almost too heavy for me to carry around:scratch2:
The 44 magnums that I reloaded in 1992 are at least half again as powerful as they were when I loaded them. I'm also 3" shorter than I was when I went in the service in 1955.
 
What is transistor glare?

It's a touchy-feely term, used to describe, most often, a preponderance of higher-harmonic distortion, caused by the high level of feedback used in many transistor amps. This was especially noticeable in early solid-state gear- before we figured out how to minimize transient intermodulation and other higher-order distortion products.

Modern solid-state gear can be built to have a remarkably small amount of these higher harmonic and anharmonic distortion products- but, at least IMHO, they're still not quite to the level that the best tube amp designs (especially built with the best of today's design and engineering skills) can do...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
I'd like to thank everyone for the great info , leads and opinions in this thread. It helped a ton and I am happy as can be!!!
 
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I got some popping and high pitched squeal at around hour ten of the break in period but it hasn't done it since.
 
1 thing that will happen for sure is if you are on your cellphone right near the amp it will make a bunch of noise.
 
Why not look at a Dynaco ST 70 plenty of power and you can find all kinds of parts later to upgrade. One of the most popular amps ever made and for a good reason.
 
Why not brew your own? I did a 35watt /channel PP sweep tube amp for under $350 and it is still my favorite amp. (In wood chassis)
Currently working on a little PP 6LU8 amp with Bogen output iron. As many scrounged components to keep the cost down. Output iron looked real rough until cleaned up and painted, still need to stuff into a chassis. Currently less than $200 invested in this one. I print out the paper PCB design and put on top of the florist foam to allow me to verify spacings prior to fabing the PCB. The prototype on the right was the original concept and the final version allowed for fixed or cathode selected bias, UL, Triode or Pentode configuration on the output tube.
 

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