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Just found a TU-666

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Patriot2020

New Member
Just found this TU-666 in the attic. It’s fully functional, just needs cleaning inside and out. The schematics diagram is still in the pouch, doesn’t look like it was ever unfolded. I would appreciate some thoughts on potential value.

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100 dollars or so, sure is one ugly tuner when you consider how attractive the au series of amplifiers are
 
Sony built a few models with round dials. They were a smaller cube shape.
I like the round dials too. Especially the old Scott tube tuners.
 
Thank you all. I cleaned up the exterior, and now I’m wondering about the cleaning inside the tuner. I’ve been reading about non-residue contact cleaner, Deoxit, and do’s and dont’s ad nauseam, but haven’t found too much info on cleaning the TU-666 specifically.

Is there any “safe” cleaning I could do without risking any damage? Benefits of doing so? I’ve used some compressed air to remove dust, but there are still some dirty parts. And I know not to touch those fins.
 
Patriot2020 said:
Thank you all. I cleaned up the exterior, and now I’m wondering about the cleaning inside the tuner. I’ve been reading about non-residue contact cleaner, Deoxit, and do’s and dont’s ad nauseam, but haven’t found too much info on cleaning the TU-666 specifically.

Is there any “safe” cleaning I could do without risking any damage? Benefits of doing so? I’ve used some compressed air to remove dust, but there are still some dirty parts. And I know not to touch those fins.
Click to expand...
Your tuner does not have much to clean using the Deoxit. Maybe the selector and those two noise cancel and muting buttons. Volume, balance, tone pots usually give you trouble when oxidation is present, but tuners usually don't have those pots.
 
If it uses an open air tuning capacitor, that big thing with lots of fins, a clean soft brush or canned air. It it hasn't collected dust don't bother. Some are in a shielded metal box, usually just fine.
 
Okay, less moving parts is good. Now about the power button...it is a push button with a spring. It works, but moves a bit loosely with and without the faceplate on. It seems to set in firmly only when the plastic cap touches a particular spot on the metal part of the button right behind the faceplate. However, it doesn’t stay in that position. Is the plastic cap and spring supposed to adhere to something? The button is also a bit slugging when moving outward to “off” position.

thanks again
 
The bad news is the world is flooded with tuners, many of which probably have better performance. You're lucky to get $100 for anything that isn't special. The good news is that some Sansui enthusiast will think it looks cool. You will probably have to sell it on a nationwide market to find that person.

Sansui was wise to move the round dial inside; they were too vulnerable to shipping damage on the Scott units.
 
Patriot2020 said:
Okay, less moving parts is good. Now about the power button...it is a push button with a spring. It works, but moves a bit loosely with and without the faceplate on. It seems to set in firmly only when the plastic cap touches a particular spot on the metal part of the button right behind the faceplate. However, it doesn’t stay in that position. Is the plastic cap and spring supposed to adhere to something? The button is also a bit slugging when moving outward to “off” position.

thanks again
Click to expand...
If you want to stay original, here's a ebay listing for the power switch. (no affiliation) Looks like you may be able to clean your switch through the opened side, too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sansui-AU555A-Amplifier-Power-switch-Alps-/183735514652

Also, here's a place where you can download a copy of service manual if you need it.
https://www.vintageshifi.com/GAMME-SANSUI-2.php
 
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No tuner dial string to break or get out of whack. I had a Sony once, not particularly high end but it worked good. I have always wanted to get a Sansui TU-666 but the stars have never aligned.
 
05AF826F-0493-4A1E-B347-A0046BBFBE95.png

This is a picture from that link; I haven’t taken apart my tuner. That open part at the rear is where it slows when moving outward to the “off” position. The metal parts slide past each other, but there’s no electrical contact in that particular spot. Do I still need to use DeOxit or would another cleaner or lubricant work as well?


gogofast said:
If you want to stay original, here's a ebay listing for the power switch. (no affiliation) Looks like you may be able to clean your switch through the opened side, too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sansui-AU555A-Amplifier-Power-switch-Alps-/183735514652

Also, here's a place where you can download a copy of service manual if you need it.
https://www.vintageshifi.com/GAMME-SANSUI-2.php
Click to expand...
 
Patriot2020 said:
View attachment 1718742

This is a picture from that link; I haven’t taken apart my tuner. That open part at the rear is where it slows when moving outward to the “off” position. The metal parts slide past each other, but there’s no electrical contact in that particular spot. Do I still need to use DeOxit or would another cleaner or lubricant work as well?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure, but it could be the mechanical issue or a contact issue. You would really have to open it up but I don't know if that's possible with that switch.
 
gogofast said:
If you want to stay original, here's a ebay listing for the power switch. (no affiliation) Looks like you may be able to clean your switch through the opened side, too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sansui-AU555A-Amplifier-Power-switch-Alps-/183735514652

Also, here's a place where you can download a copy of service manual if you need it.
https://www.vintageshifi.com/GAMME-SANSUI-2.php
Click to expand...

Would pure DeOxit liquid from the squeeze tube be okay? I don’t see enough of an opening to flush the switch, and I can use a hypodermic needle (cat has the diabeetus, really) to apply with more precision. And would I need to flush it out or just let it drain onto a towel?

Thanks
 
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