• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

JVC JR-S401 tuner power switch

G

glen100

New Member
Can anyone suggest a suitable replacement for my broken switch ?
I hear that these are commonly a part which breaks down and it looks as though genuine replacements are non-existant.
The JVC part number is QSP0020-002BS
Made by Alps, their number is snap-switch M053.
When I contacted Alps, their UK distributer thought I was mad and asked why I wanted to bother fixing the power/amp anyway because the VHF transmitters were soon going to be switched off !!!
Any help would be gratefully received. (I'm in the UK by the way)
 
Register to hide this ad
Is what he said true? Over here and in the US we are waiting for that discussion to come up. Only thing standing in the way is the cables companies drive to allow killing over the air television. It is now before the US and Canadian regulators, seemingly the companies on both sides of the border are colluding on this issue. Once done, I can see them attacking FM, and possibly winning as the car companies are even discussing ending fm radios in cars. Previoulsy, then contra argument was that continued FM OTA was needed for those in cars. I can see AM surviving possibly longer.
 
Glenn
I sent you a PM .. I don't understand the PM thing because I'm not on the forum.. it expires then I have to log on again.

I have a switch but I can't do work with you until you email me. I'll send the switch for cost of mail. It will work even if you just have to turn it on. Just wire it in... You could put a small 250v rated switch on the rear of the receiver, too. If you do get the proper switch this one could act as a safety on/off switch.. i.e. nobody can turn in on.

The problem with your switch is arcing.. there is no arc collector cap. usually about 105p for common audio arc arrestor yours being 220v double that or more won't hurt.

binky.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for your reply and suggestions. I bought the faulty unit from a junk auction for pennies just over a week ago. It had obviously been rejected years ago because of the dodgy switch. Since writing for help I continued to prod with screwdrivers and other weapons of mass destruction and discovered that the broken switch had two spare poles which had never been connected to anything. I simply swapped the wires from the burnt out poles onto these clean ones and all is well. (As long as the switch continues to work for another 35 years it will probably see me out !!)
I'm amazed at the quality of the sound this unit produces. It will cope brilliantly with CD's as well as old tapes, and it picks up clearly radio stations other radio receivers I have only just crackle through.
It's a keeper !
 
glad you got it going.. like a dummy I didn't think that the contacts would be single and I took a frigging pic, too!!

I would still add arrester caps simple mylar or ceramic as that is why it failed. I think with 220 you need two? Not sure if parallel or series. any decent model over there in a schematic would give you a value and the solder leads. It will also prevent sonics when you turn it on and off. speaker pops or connected etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom