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JVC Turntables

steelydaan

New Member
Hello everyone. I am new to this forum and I have a question for all JVC owners and fans, and all turntable enthusiasts in general - how would you compare a VL-5 model to a JL-F50 model. I just bought the latter one and would like to know its prons and cons and where it stands in the JVC "hierarchy" so to speak. Also overall where it stands amongst other models and brands. I reckon it is an intermediate quality, far away from the serious "four and five digit" (moneywise) tables but still would love to hear some reviews and commentaries. Thank you so much in advance.
 
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Hello everyone. I am new to this forum and I have a question for all JVC owners and fans, and all turntable enthusiasts in general - how would you compare a VL-5 model to a JL-F50 model. I just bought the latter one and would like to know its prons and cons and where it stands in the JVC "hierarchy" so to speak. Also overall where it stands amongst other models and brands. I reckon it is an intermediate quality, far away from the serious "four and five digit" (moneywise) tables but still would love to hear some reviews and commentaries. Thank you so much in advance.

Welcome to the AK turn table forum.

Here are a couple of links to the turn table specifications, (using the JVC JL-F45 instead, closest available model).

JVC VL - 5
http://www.vinylengine.com/library/jvc/vl-5.shtml

JVC JL-F45
http://www.vinylengine.com/library/jvc/jl-f45.shtml

In the Japanese turn table world, direct drive, with full automatic features are usually the most expensive. :eek:
 
I have owned a JL-F50 since new in 1978, I can't answer where it ranks in the JVC lineup, but it has been my only table in all these years, spinning as I type, only issue is the cuing stopped working years ago.
 
Welcome to AK.:bigok:

The JL-F50 is the better turntable. It’s a later model, and has a few improvements such as a better design tonearm and fully automatic operation (VL-5 semi-auto), weighs more and has better specifications. The VL-5 was the entry-level model in JVC’s range in the early-70’s, so while it was competent, it was built to a price. The JL-F50 was more a mid-range model.

Here are some of the specifications of both:

Model Introduction Year: VL-5 1972, JL-F50 1977 (winner JL-F50)
Drive system: VL-5 belt drive, JL-F50 direct drive
Automatic features: VL-5 semi-automatic, JL-F50 fully auto (winner JL-F50)
Wow and flutter: VL-5 0.1% WRMS, JL-F50 0.03% (winner JL-F50)
Speed control: VL-5 fixed, JL-F50 user adjustable ±2.5% (winner JL-F50)
Anti-skating: VL-5 pre-set for tracking forces between 1.5 and 2g, JL-F50 user adjustable from 0-3g (winner JL-F50)
Weight: VL-5 7.2kg, JL-F50 9kg (winner JL-F50)
Feet: VL-5 non-adjustable, JL-F50 height adjustable for levelling turntable (winner JL-F50)

You can see that the JL-F50 is better in most areas.

I’m not a great fan of the weighted bar and lever anti-skating system on the VL-5. I have used this exact tonearm, and think the later TH-hold design tonearm used on the JL-F50, which I’ve also used (on a different model JVC turntable owned by my brother) is a superior design.

I expect that if they'd been sold at the same time, the JL-F50 would have been about 50% more expensive than the VL-5, and probably at roughly 85% of the price of the well-regarded Technics SL-1200 MkII, a slightly newer (by about 2 years) design. That would make it very much a '4 digit' turntable in today's money!:thumbsup: The VL-5 would probably be a mid-3-digit turntable - I'd estimate maybe $600-$700.
 
Many thanks to all three of you who answered my questions. You definitely managed to shed some light on this topic - I was kind of in the dark :) The TT comes set as audiophile and I am wondering whether it could be reversed back to its original complete auto set up? Also any recommendations on cartridge/stylus for this particular TT?
 
I have heard good things on the Audio-Technica AT-440MLb and it's in your price range. Others will be along shortly with more ideas ;)
 
I just picked up a fairly mint JL-F50 for $30 for the system in my garage and it sounds great. It needed some internal regreasing of the gears and clean up, but the functionality is all there. It has the older Victor Z1S cart still on it. I Cleaned it up with the ME and sounds great. I think that internally this unit is closer to the JL-A40. http://www.vinylengine.com/library/jvc/jl-a40.shtml

But for what it is, its a great TT for the money!
 
I have owned a JL-F50 since new in 1978, I can't answer where it ranks in the JVC lineup, but it has been my only table in all these years, spinning as I type, only issue is the cuing stopped working years ago.
If the cueing mechanism is a metal piston in a bottomless moulded plastic cylinder type then it might be an easy fix.
Smear some High Tack Silicone Plumbing Grease on the exposed metal piston by lifting it up manually and adding a very *thin* coating of the grease with a cotton bud or matchstick..raise a lower the piston a few time to coat the inside of the plastic cylinder it moves in and smooth cue damping should be restored.
A £1.99 tin this size will last a lifetime:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18g-SILIC...762171?hash=item1e79b287bb:g:GQYAAOxy1klRbXUO
If you have a reservoir type cueing pot that holds silicone damping oil (i.e it is not open but sealed at the base of the cylinder , the grease will be too thick...and you will need silicone oil instead , somewhere between 100 - 500 cst rating...depending on manufacturer.'s quoted use of rating specs.
The actual rating of silicone oil consistency can vary much between suppliers but something the consistency of honey (instead of the vaseline consistency of silicone grease) should work in the reservoir type pot.
Petroleum based grease or oil should be avoided as they will dilute the silicone ,and never lubricate a cueing pot that still works with petroleum based oil or a solvent like 3-in-1 or wd40 as it will dissolve the existing silicone and the arm will drop like a brick once it thins out..
 
The table came and it was set to "audiophile" instead of fully automatic (the factory setting). Any ideas how to turn it back to fully automatic? The cartridge is old - Supex SM-100 with a completely useless and worn out stylus - SMM/38E. So far I haven't had any luck finding a replacement stylus. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
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