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JVC Victor UA-7045 arm on the way... Thoughts?

gary7

gary7

AK Subscriber
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I've had a JVC Victor QL-10 for about 6 months, has the arm from a Kenwood KD-550 table, no slouch. Finally found a 7045 arm on the auction site I was willing to drop the coin for to make it total original. Looks to be in superb shape. Any other 7045 users out there (I'm sure you are) and what's your opinion on it.

7045-1.jpg 7045-2.jpg 7045-3.jpg
 
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I think they're lookers and JVC/Victor's SME style connector is second to none. It actually clamps the headshell which is really really nice. :)
 
The only thing I don't know is if the armboard hole was originally cut for the 7045 till it arrives. From photos I've looked at it seems to be in the same location.
 
It's possible the previous owner installed the kd-550 incorrectly or that the armboard/plinth was modified it fit it. Only way to know is to measure.
 
These tonearms are super nice in my opinion. Sometimes they suffer from drooping counterweights, in that case you need to replace the rubber tube which is used to decouple the counterweight stub.
 
stratokaster said:
These tonearms are super nice in my opinion. Sometimes they suffer from drooping counterweights, in that case you need to replace the rubber tube which is used to decouple the counterweight stub.
Click to expand...
Some on eBay now have the droopy shafts. From the pics this one looks fine. Fellow said he used it for a few years on a Denon table.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if your table was originally setup with something more boutique and the levels arm was installed to make it complete after the boutique arm was removed for sale or to keep when the original owner parted with the deck.
 
stratokaster said:
in that case you need to replace the rubber tube which is used to decouple the counterweight stub
Click to expand...
I, and many others, have replaced the failing old rubber with a wooden dowel; someone even use the barrel of a cheap Bic pen. No difference in SQ. And you can do it in 10 minutes, so much easier than trying to find the "right" replacement part for a 40-year old component.

To support my SQ claim: I've had TOTL arms with decoupled c'wts, and they advertised it big-time as a feature. I've had TOTL arms with rigidly coupled c'wts, and they advertised it big-time as a feature. And I've had TOTL arms that are "kinda" decoupled, trying to straddle both camps. It's one of those "features" manufacturers hype to try to make a distinctive impression in the marketplace.

I've never heard any difference.
 
gary7 said:
has the arm from a Kenwood KD-550 table
Click to expand...

I would very much doubt the KD-550 arm was original to the plinth since as a turn key package the 7045 was supplied
as OEM.

If the drive was sold separately in Japan TT-101 no QL-10 designated plinth then the usual arm to accompany was the 7082 longer version
and a larger Victor made plinth would usually be supplied.

The 7045 is a very nice arm and if the rear stub is not sagging odds are good its been replaced already
or they changed the material of construction at some point as the transition to less compliante designs were coming.
 
I pulled the arm board to use as a pattern for the 7045 arm. This board was definitely drilled for the Kenwood arm to fit this base collar.

IMG_8269.JPG IMG_8270.JPG
 
Never actually mounted a tonearm from scratch. Since the hole for the Kenwood arm was drilled at 220mm center, instead of 222mm to spec, I need to add 10mm to meet the 230mm spec for the 7045, correct. Can I just move it lateral right by 10mm or would I need to adjust it back to front any to be in alignment?
 
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