JVC Zero 6 Anybody? They are solid built.
- Thread starter Furburger
- Start date
Hooked up an amp to both mids. One sounds just fine while the other has staticky/scratchy low output. Is there any hope for this mid? What do you think is going on with it?
Furburger
Active Member
I think I have found the problem. The cone has seperated from the base of the speaker. The base being the brown stiff fabric, what are we calling that spider, suspension?
See attached pics of the good mid and the bad mid. When I put some pressure on the base I can see it moving separate from the cone. When same pressure is applied to the good mid the base and the cone move together.
Is this a common situation? If some how I can get some caulking in this tight space is that the way to go with this? Has anything else failed first that caused this seperation?
See attached pics of the good mid and the bad mid. When I put some pressure on the base I can see it moving separate from the cone. When same pressure is applied to the good mid the base and the cone move together.
Is this a common situation? If some how I can get some caulking in this tight space is that the way to go with this? Has anything else failed first that caused this seperation?
Attachments
GD70
Lunatic Member
Use Aileen's Tacky glue around the cone spider joint. Apply with a Q-tip. Once you've applied the glue, move the cone in and out just a little to get the glue in the separated gap, and add a little weight, to weigh the cone down to ensure a tight fit.
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Furburger
Active Member
Googling and found some info on this repair and a lot of them were done with epoxy. I think a glue with some body would be best so it doesn't run into the coil. The speaker has a metal cage on it which I have not figured out how to remove. I won't be able to manipulate the cone in any way. The cone is aluminum, super thin and easily damaged.
Not sure what the best option is for glue on this, if its Aileen's I would go with the thicker clear formula. I bought a 3 pack of Aileen's and that thick clear type had turned hard.
Not sure what the best option is for glue on this, if its Aileen's I would go with the thicker clear formula. I bought a 3 pack of Aileen's and that thick clear type had turned hard.
swechsler
Frog Whisperer
If you're going to go with epoxy, don't use too much as you can affect the mass of the cone. It looks like the grills are glued to the midrange frame. One method you could use to manipulate the cone would be to epoxy a couple of pieces of some flexible material (maybe a very thin zip tie or similar piece of plastic) to either side of the cone, then you could pull on the zip ties simultaneously to move the cone in and out. Once you're done, cut the them off with diagonal wire cutters.
ETA: hmm, I just noticed that you said it was "super thin". Maybe instead of moving the cone, you could move the spider up and down to spread out the glue or whatever you decide to use.
ETA: hmm, I just noticed that you said it was "super thin". Maybe instead of moving the cone, you could move the spider up and down to spread out the glue or whatever you decide to use.
Furburger
Active Member
I didn't find much of a consensus on which adhesive is best for this problem. Unlike Aileen's for doing a re foam, not as common an issue I guess. Looking at the good mid there's not much adhesive holding that cone down. I haven't made a decision on what I will go with but going to the store soon so will do so today. I am sure its been done by many speaker guys here and was hoping for more input on what they used. JVC getting crickets...lol,,, JBL, ESS, HPM in subject line for best response?
Yes the cone looks fragile, like an aluminum Sansui dust cap that will dent if you breath on it.
Yes the cone looks fragile, like an aluminum Sansui dust cap that will dent if you breath on it.
Shrugg
Active Member
I've reglued a spider to a cone before, and I used "superfast" two part epoxy from elmer's. You want a strong glue like epoxy so that the spider is firmly attached to the cone. The actual process of applying it is pretty simple, I just pushed the cone downwards against the spider and applied the premixed epoxy with a wooden skewer. Epoxy should bond to the spider within 30 seconds, and you just need to let it cure for about a day. No alignment is needed, as the surround on the cone itself should keep things aligned. I would recommend finding a way to remove the grill on the midrange so you can push the cone onto the spider. The grill is probably glued on, so a firm pull with a bent paperclip in the grill mesh or two should do the trick.
Furburger
Active Member
Thx Shrugg
Even if I could get the grill off I don't think the thin aluminum cone would stand up to being pushed. I assume JVC put a grille over them because they are fragile?? I worked on lifting the grille off and cannot move it. I would like to take them off because the good mid grille is dented and want to straighten it.
I didn't bother buying any other glue and decided upon using the glue that came with the new surrounds from Germany. With it loaded in the syringe I was able to reach in and apply a bead along the spider/cone. With a battery I pulsed the cone up and down a few times to help spread the glue.
I thought about the Aileens gel glue but I think the German stuff would provide a better bond. Well better than the Aileens but perhaps not as good as epoxy...and hopefully strong enough. It still sets up quick but can be worked a bit before that, it will flow somewhat and lay down into place.
After drying for 24 hours and tested with a battery the cone and spider move together. So far so good! Today I did some touch ups with more of the German solvent borne contact like glue to some areas that looked slightly thin.
Tomorrow will put it in the cab and see if it plays.
Even if I could get the grill off I don't think the thin aluminum cone would stand up to being pushed. I assume JVC put a grille over them because they are fragile?? I worked on lifting the grille off and cannot move it. I would like to take them off because the good mid grille is dented and want to straighten it.
I didn't bother buying any other glue and decided upon using the glue that came with the new surrounds from Germany. With it loaded in the syringe I was able to reach in and apply a bead along the spider/cone. With a battery I pulsed the cone up and down a few times to help spread the glue.
I thought about the Aileens gel glue but I think the German stuff would provide a better bond. Well better than the Aileens but perhaps not as good as epoxy...and hopefully strong enough. It still sets up quick but can be worked a bit before that, it will flow somewhat and lay down into place.
After drying for 24 hours and tested with a battery the cone and spider move together. So far so good! Today I did some touch ups with more of the German solvent borne contact like glue to some areas that looked slightly thin.
Tomorrow will put it in the cab and see if it plays.
Attachments
Furburger
Active Member
Well after 3 months everything sounds good to my ears. Pulled the repaired mid out and the spider and cone are still solidly bonded so I would say that type of adhesive is a good
one!
The other mid will still only function on the pot setting of +4. When I set the pot to any other setting there is no sound at all. I did spray that pot again and that has no effect. I checked the values on the resisters on the 2 pots and found 2 of them way out on the mid with the problem. Also see pics of the brown possible burnt areas on the 2 suspect resistors. Interesting thing is the good mid has been worked on before. You can see most or all of the wires have been de soldered. The problem mid still has original solder. Does this mean I just need to replace the 2 out of spec resistors?
I wanted to pull the crossovers and check the cap values with my new ESR70 but ran into some road blocks, like how do I get at them. The tweeter is glued in place and I didn't want to pull and rip up the paint surrounding it. The mid sits inside a plastic bowl. Here are the values I got. I measured them left to right in the pics. First number is what the printed value is on the resistor.
18 ohm 18 18
5.6 ohm 5.7 5.5
8.2 ohm 16.4 8.2
1.8 ohm 43.7 1.8
1.3 ohm 1.4 1.3
1.0 ohm 1.0 1.0
one!
The other mid will still only function on the pot setting of +4. When I set the pot to any other setting there is no sound at all. I did spray that pot again and that has no effect. I checked the values on the resisters on the 2 pots and found 2 of them way out on the mid with the problem. Also see pics of the brown possible burnt areas on the 2 suspect resistors. Interesting thing is the good mid has been worked on before. You can see most or all of the wires have been de soldered. The problem mid still has original solder. Does this mean I just need to replace the 2 out of spec resistors?
I wanted to pull the crossovers and check the cap values with my new ESR70 but ran into some road blocks, like how do I get at them. The tweeter is glued in place and I didn't want to pull and rip up the paint surrounding it. The mid sits inside a plastic bowl. Here are the values I got. I measured them left to right in the pics. First number is what the printed value is on the resistor.
18 ohm 18 18
5.6 ohm 5.7 5.5
8.2 ohm 16.4 8.2
1.8 ohm 43.7 1.8
1.3 ohm 1.4 1.3
1.0 ohm 1.0 1.0
Furburger
Active Member
waggs098
Thanks for dropping in!
Yes I will try to swap out those 2 bad resistors. The 2 bad ones have the 4 wires attached and some rock hard black stuff on there ends locking everything in place. I was hoping someone could shed some light on why this failure might have happened.
Thanks for dropping in!
Yes I will try to swap out those 2 bad resistors. The 2 bad ones have the 4 wires attached and some rock hard black stuff on there ends locking everything in place. I was hoping someone could shed some light on why this failure might have happened.
Playing a scratchy copy of Foghat at ‘11’waggs098
Thanks for dropping in!
Yes I will try to swap out those 2 bad resistors. The 2 bad ones have the 4 wires attached and some rock hard black stuff on there ends locking everything in place. I was hoping someone could shed some light on why this failure might have happened.