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Kappa Seven: Replace the polydomes?

Keep the Polydomes, or replace them?

  • Keep the speakers original; the drivers are mostly good

    Votes: 4 44.4%

  • Replace the drivers; people want working speakers

    Votes: 5 55.6%
  • Total voters
    9
Sam1879 said:
CeramicResistor, 10 Watt - 2.7 Ohm.
While i was installing the new drivers on one of the resistors a connection wire on the resistor broke away. (my fault) Changed them to Ceramic 20 Watt 2.7 Ohm. Should not make a difference. ( or does it?)
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Thank you for the information and no it shouldnt make a difference... in fact I think the larger amount of Wattage is better because it doesn't Overload the mid range
 
Kevinbigdog said:
Thank you for the information and no it shouldnt make a difference... in fact I think the larger amount of Wattage is better because it doesn't Overload the mid range
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The wattage rating of a resistor has no bearing on whether it will "overload the midrange" (I'm not even sure what that means). It only refers to the amount of instantaneous power the resistor can absorb before it becomes damaged. As long as you stay below the wattage rating, electrically they're equivalent. Since midranges receive only a relatively small fraction of what a woofer sees (the higher the frequency, the less electrical energy is required), that's not a problem. Whether a 20 watt resistor is required in this application, I can't say.
 
swechsler said:
It only refers to the amount of instantaneous power the resistor can absorb ....
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are you sure about „instantanuous“? as far as i know this value refers to continuous power and peaks could be much higher. not 100% sure, though.
the driver is able to handle 80w rms by its specs, so i guess for being on the safe mathematically calculated side a 20w would better, but i guess in real world circumstances 10w are enough.
 
Sam1879 said:
are you sure about „instantanuous“?
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I actually agonized over what word to use there, and I'm realizing now that it wasn't the best choice. I wanted to use "instantaneous" to contrast with "cumulative", but now I see that I probably should have used "continuous" instead.
 
Sam1879 said:
are you sure about „instantanuous“? as far as i know this value refers to continuous power and peaks could be much higher. not 100% sure, though.
the driver is able to handle 80w rms by its specs, so i guess for being on the safe mathematically calculated side a 20w would better, but i guess in real world circumstances 10w are enough.
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Thank you for a better verbal interpretation of the point I was trying to make...I was talking about peaks and how a 20 watt resistor would be better than a 10 watt in this scenario..I don't know what the difficulty in grasping that was all about..but thank you
 
Kevinbigdog said:
Thank you for a better verbal interpretation of the point I was trying to make...I was talking about peaks and how a 20 watt resistor would be better than a 10 watt in this scenario..I don't know what the difficulty in grasping that was all about..but thank you
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Won't the 10 watt actually provide some protection to the speaker, a bit more than the 20 watt would? In theory?
 
EddieZeddie said:
Won't the 10 watt actually provide some protection to the speaker, a bit more than the 20 watt would? In theory?
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Only if the resistor fails before the driver when too much power is applied. I doubt that is the case if the circuit also includes some other form of protection such as a fuse, poly switch or circuit breaker. You wouldn't want some other component to fail before the intended protection device or you wouldn't need that device in the first place.
 
Old but still I have every mid range polydome know to man and honestly. I really don't feel the original polydome is a superior driver at all.

I've heard some after market ones that sounded equally as good if not slightly more revealing than the original "muffle" dome people seems to love in the kappas.

I had currently 4 sets that need replacement, the miller sound domes sound very relaxed and more warm even than the original plastic domes. So hardly true to its "original " sound either. But people do feel it's the best solution it's a bit of a slippery slope.

I will send mine off eventually to get fixed (already send Miller sound a email for two sets) as I do like those.

But I would not get the one from Bob Douglas as I am simply afraid they will wear out again. He treats them with some of shelf spray to "uv protect them" I have no faith in that at all to withstand time.

The Miller domes seem to be the better choice.
I wished we could just replace the polydomes all together. They are really not that great of a driver to begin with (IMHO)
 
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