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KEF 104/2 Mystery - Troubleshooting Suggestions

rompa11

New Member
Happy holidays, all. I'm having some trouble with one of my recently acquired KEF 104/2 speakers. Specifically, a distinctly "muffled" sound from speaker B.

First, some back story. I've been using a junky pair of JVC speakers (SK-S11's, yikes) that I got at a rummage sale ten years ago, and it was time for an upgrade. I had been scouring the local craigslist adds for a while, looking for a pair of KEF 104/2's. After a few months of no luck, I pulled the trigger on a pair from eBay, and unfortunately they were too far away for me to pick up, so shipping was the only option. They were in great condition physically, and better yet, they had been recapped, refoamed where needed, and had MT-1191 tweeters put in.

So I patiently waited for them to arrive, and when they did, the boxes were a bit beat up. They were quite well packed, so I was surprised to find a bit of damage. Speaker B had a 1" portion of the corner veneer damaged, two of the grill pegs broke, and one of the grill MDF cross-beams, for lack of a better term, cracked. I was able to fix that with some wood glue. All in all, though, they looked to be in excellent condition.

Next, I gave them a listen. The speakers are powered by a Yamaha A-S501. I started the volume low and worked my way up to just slightly louder than normal listening volumes, so they were never given a ton of power. After after a good hour of listening, I determined that speaker A sounded phenomenal, but speaker B had a distinct "muffled" sound, almost as if I was listening to it under a blanket. I am a novice when it comes to audio equipment and speaker problems, but I enjoy learning about it. I tried to watch as many youtube videos and poured over posts in this forum to try and solve it, but the issue persists. Here's what I have done to troubleshoot the problem to this point.

- I changed sources from turntable, to tuner, to CD, to digital, changing the balance back and forth to compare speaker A to speaker B. Same result
- I swapped the speaker cables so the inputs to each speaker were switched. Speaker B still sounded off. I believe this test should isolate the problem to the speaker
- I performed the "toilet paper tube" test. I placed the roll up against the tweeter on speaker A, and it was very "crisp" and "sharp" sounding, for lack of a better term. Speaker B was definitely producing noise, so it was working. The sound, however, was "muffled" or "muddy".
- I removed the front portion of the speaker to make sure are the wires were plugged in properly. all wires match the diagram on the speaker itself
- Inspected the Mt-1191 visually. Solder seemed good, and no visible damage or disconnected wires.
-I removed the top subwoofer to access the board that held the caps. I removed that, and compared them to images of the falcon acoustics replacement set to make sure they were actually changed out. They did seem to match, and none of the caps appeared to have broken or been damaged during shipping. Two of the clear zip tie things were broken so I replaced those. I have attached photos of the caps and the solders in case something looks amiss that I can't detect.

After this, I put it all back together and crossed my fingers that all the putzing around I did would have magically fixed it, but nope, same problem. Today I bought a multimeter and both speaker A and B read just a hair under 6 ohms.

So I've reached the end of ideas on what to do next to troubleshoot the issue, or what the issue could even be at this point. My only guess is that one of the caps is bad or something, but they were just replaced about a year ago. Wise members of Audiokarma, what should I do next? What could this be? Thanks for any assistance you can provide, and happy holidays.
 

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NIce speakers. Good choice. Should be fixable.
When you say you did the toilet paper roll test, did you get right up to the tweeter on Speaker B? muffled sound typically translates to no tweeter or minimized tweeter working.
 
First, I am no expert. Novice at best. 2 things I notice, but could be nothing. In the upper center of the board, just below a zip tie, the solder joint looks corroded. Not sure, but it looks that way.
Also, in the lower left of the picture, there are 2 joints that are touching. Should that be?
A PM to AK member Baco99 might also shed some light. He’s a good guy.
 
Congratulations and that is a classic sign of hardened ferrofluid!

If that was the case the OP would have a problem that is repairable. His seller installed a pair of Chinese
replacements. No excuse for that.
Also, paid for shipping and were delivered beat up. Could be a voice coil rubbing. Could be a cap installed incorrectly.
Unfortunate situation. OP should contact the seller and if he can’t get any satisfaction file a claim with PayPal

Good luck
 
Hi all, and thanks for the replies.

Drugolf - Glad to hear this sounds fixable, that is reassuring. Yes, I placed the roll directly over just the tweeter when performing the test and it was making some noise, that I can confirm Both mids were working as determined by feeling them while music was playing and both were working (vibrating).

trinhsman - Thanks for taking a look at the board. I'm assuming that reddish area is what you are referring to? I did see some slight reddish areas around a few of the solder points, but I wasn't sure how much of that is normal or at what point that would have an impact on the sound. I have it put back together at the moment, but I'll be sure to examine that more closely when I get the board pulled out again. I'll also shoot a message to Baco99, thanks for the lead!

Johnny_Law - I definitely came across a lot of info on the original tweeter and it's associated drying of the ferrofluid causing such an issue. In fact, I was thinking that the original owner might not have changed to a new tweeter as advertised and still had the originals in. But upon taking it apart it was the new MT-1191 tweeter from Midwest Speaker Repair.

Thanks all for taking the time to look this over. It sounds like the tweeter seems to be a point of focus. Again, as I'm rather new to the game here, could I remove the tweeter and use my newly purchased multimeter to see if there's any issues with it, despite it being new? The impedance is listed on the website as 4 ohms.
 
Just saw DOBBIEGUY's reply. Yeah, it's not an ideal situation, that's for sure. I have considered doing something through eBay or a FEDEX claim or something along those lines. I've got it in the back pocket, but I'm hoping that would be a last resort. I'm sort or enjoying learning about the speakers and figuring out what the problem could be. Is there a way to test if the voice coil is rubbing? Apologies if this is common knowledge, I'm fairly new to the game!
 
If that was the case the OP would have a problem that is repairable. His seller installed a pair of Chinese
replacements.

Johnny_Law - I definitely came across a lot of info on the original tweeter and it's associated drying of the ferrofluid causing such an issue. In fact, I was thinking that the original owner might not have changed to a new tweeter as advertised and still had the originals in. But upon taking it apart it was the new MT-1191 tweeter from Midwest Speaker Repair.

Thanks all for taking the time to look this over. It sounds like the tweeter seems to be a point of focus. Again, as I'm rather new to the game here, could I remove the tweeter and use my newly purchased multimeter to see if there's any issues with it, despite it being new? The impedance is listed on the website as 4 ohms.

Ah, missed that, bummer! Yes there shouldn't be an issue now...
 
The plot thickens, my friends. So I wanted to get a reading of the tweeter from the analog multimeter I picked up. Firstly, I'm not sure if the wires are supposed to be removed form the tweeter, but with them attached I got a reading of about 0.5 ohms, which seemed strange. I wanted to compare that value with one from the working tweeter in speaker A, so I took the font off of speaker A for the first time and what did I find? A Morel tweeter! there's a different one in each speaker, which doesn't make much sense to me. I could imagine a slight variation in sound between different tweeters, but I can't imagine a MT-1191 sounding leaps and bounds worse than a Morel. Still not sure on this one.
 
Well I've been continuing to work on this bad boy here and discovered I should be testing the tweeter while it's unplugged and not still connected (duh) so I did just that. And look what we have here - what appears to be a dead tweeter. I did the same test on the good speaker and it showed a reading, but 7 ohms? Shouldn't it be closer to 4, as that is it's nominal impedance? Anyways, it seems like the problem was a "new" tweeter being bad, but if that's a thing that could be damaged during shipping is another question....hmm. Still not clear on the 7 ohm reading, though. Does anybody have any ideas on that? Pictures attached.
 

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Well I've been continuing to work on this bad boy here and discovered I should be testing the tweeter while it's unplugged and not still connected (duh) so I did just that. And look what we have here - what appears to be a dead tweeter. I did the same test on the good speaker and it showed a reading, but 7 ohms? Shouldn't it be closer to 4, as that is it's nominal impedance? Anyways, it seems like the problem was a "new" tweeter being bad, but if that's a thing that could be damaged during shipping is another question....hmm. Still not clear on the 7 ohm reading, though. Does anybody have any ideas on that? Pictures attached.
Bingo! Looks like you’ve narrowed it down.
 
I was going to suggest swapping the tweeters to see if the problem moves (tweeter) or stays on the same speaker (crossover). But looks like you have it pegged.
The 7 ohms is probably fine. If you look at speaker impedance curves, they go all over the place - hence the term nominal. Also, analog meters are not known for their accuracy (hard to read accurately) - did you check and set the zero before measuring. Or compare with a known good resistor (Midwest speck sheet says Re is 3.6 ohms - DC resistance.) But that may be in error also.
 
To All,
I have had no less than three incoming crossover boards, all with the same problem. The capacitors (three very small capacitors) around the tweeter protection circuit, leaked can the corrosion from them ate a main trace on the PCB. I spliced in a piece of solid copper wire, took out the three caps and replaced them for $6. Fixed!!!
Another part of these speakers that is a pain in the ass....the length of the four leads from the incoming crossover board to the tweeter/midrange board. On some pics of other folks speakers, I see a connection board. I didn't get that.....
 
So if I’m reading this right, both tweeters are producing sound now?
The Morel tweeter is the replacement tweeter of choice, though the Mid West replacement is fine as well.
I restored a set of these last year for a client, did the complete recap, and did attempt to replace the ferrofluid, but it was so old and baked in the VC gap the VC coil separated from the dome. The ferrofluid was like tar. I left the other alone, and my client opted for replacements. They are great sounding speakers once restored. The connecting wires should all be long enough. You’re saying a board is missing?

Link to the resto thread, which you may find helpful.
Cheers, Glenn
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/kef-104-2-restoration-and-pics.955030/
 
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