Kef 107 parts

sbaudio

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I am rebuilding a pair of Kef 107s that are missing the aluminum rods that connect the magnet assemblies. Does anyone know the length, diameter, and possibly the bolt thread/size? Thanks in advance, Lee.
 
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If you still need these numbers, mine are (using a builders tape measure, not an engineering item!) 220mm long 13mm outside diameter.

The bolts are 80mm (including the head) and have the same thread spec.as the spikes on the bottom of the bass units.
 
Thank you for checking on this for me but I got lucky. The original seller just found all of the hardware including the rods and sent them to me. Now I just need a pair of the B250 woofers and a kube. I am separating the the top and bottom crossovers and adding another pair of terminal posts. This will allow me to equalize the pods and bass units with different amps and eqs. It is a log term project and fun so far. Thanks again for the help.
 
OK, good luck with all of that. I am in the middle of re-foaming my original 107s. Scores so far, 3 went well, one has a stuck voice coil that is about to go off to a repairer in Norfolk, England.
 
That sounds expensive. I know these were expensive new and some of the used ones have had replacement woofers put in. I have 2 early woofers that have aluminum mass rings glued on to the voice coil and 2 later replacements that do not. The early woofer numbers match the cabinet serial numbers. One early speaker was missing a large section of the cone so I am working at replacing the cone. The coils and spiders are all good and the leads exit out the side of the former so cone replacement is a littler easier as long as I can match the shape and mass of the cone. How hard can it be? I am looking for an early cube but by separating the passive crossover and using an active one I can try other woofers and electronics. Should be fun and the repairs will take a while so at least I can experiment on them. I repaired a later pair several years ago and the bass was incredible. I replaced the tweeters with Vifa's and was satisfied with the sound. This time I will replace the ferrofluid in the T33s and see what happens. There are printouts of the response curves on the net so I can try to get into the ballpark with an outboard eq. Best of luck with yours. They will amaze you when they are done.
 
Thanks, I checked those kits out and was informed that the cones were lighter. Also, I do not need the coils or spiders and already have extra surrounds to play with. I have accessed 12" cones to trim down to the correct size and will remove one of the original cones from the later speakers to weigh so that they all match. I could not locate any 10" cones that were as wide as the kef cones. I use Tite-Bond 2 glue on the back of the cones to stiffen them and match the weight. All the coils and spiders are original so matching the cones should be relatively easy once I get the weight of the original ones. The cone curvature is slightly different so I use a thin foam gasket to align the height of the doughnut where it is glued to the cone. I had knee surgery and have a lot of free time on my hands so this is a great way to keep myself busy. I see that there is a kit available for the crossover capacitors and will pick them up as I move into the pods. I saw a detailed video on youtube of a way to separate the pods but was able to remove the crossovers from my first pair of speakers by removing the drivers and pulling the crossover out through the mid-bass cutout? I will try this again. Let me know what the magnet alignment entails, you just never know what''s waiting down the road.
 
Good luck with the knee and this project! I have seen the video of a take apart of the head units and see that it is best to not try to take the units to pieces and try to use the midrange aperture. I just put my bass units back together and it sounds terrible, just trying to find which drives are the problem, oh well, this is not science, it is just glue and paper project work!
 
So you were able to get the speaker with the binding voice coil repaired? Sorry to hear that they don't sound at least ok. It's all too easy to get air leaks or polarity on one speaker reversed that throws everything out of whack. The rubber grommets and seals for the drivers need to be perfect too. I noticed that the tensioning of the truss rod and the speaker frames needed to be done very carefully on mine. There are a lot of seals in these as you know. I hope it's an easy fix. Taking these apart and getting all of the foam back in place is a real pain. Did you use shims when you refoamed these? I have had good results with shims. How does the repaired speaker look? Can you post pics?
 
No, the fourth bass drive unit is waiting for parts, I was just checking the three finished ones, part by part. I had forgotten that the 107s were in a spare room for 10+ years as I had replaced them with KEF 207s for the listening room. Now I have moved house I want to get the 107s working to justify moving them half way across England!
 
I contacted Falcon Audio, in England, to order the capacitor kit for the 107's and they have sold out. They said that they should have the capacitor kits back in stock by September so I ordered replacement caps through another company here in the USA that I used before with good results. They should be here in a week or so and then I can start on the pods. The crossovers that normally reside in the bass bins are on the dinner table in the living room waiting for the new caps. We have a very snall house but I have been able to pack in a pair of Ohm F speakers with a pair of Sumo subs. I am lucky that my wife is very tolerant and really enjoys music. I have not heard the Kef 207's. Have you had a chance to compare them with the 107's?
 
I had to laugh that I was getting parts for a British speaker company from two companies in Florida (good though they are!) and even repairers here in UK use these same companies for parts. So the repairer I am using for the bass unit will await shipping from Florida to him before doing the work.

Falcon are a trusted 'name' for parts and work on speakers.
 
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The 207s compared to 107/2s? Well the 207s, despite being much bigger, do not have the lowest octave bass extension of the 107s . I use a sub-woofer as well with the 207s for movies, using an Anthem amplification setup. The sound quality of both are excellent.

The 207s come into a group called 'never, ever move house with them unless you kept the cardboard boxes' they are huge and hard to freight.
 
Your speaker looks ready to go. I have never had boxes for any of my speakers. I have a VW Vanagon with a fold down bed that makes moving speakers easy. I just picked up a Kef Kube for the 107/2 so I guess it's time to explore converting these to the later series. The bass on the 107 speakers is amazing. Clean yet deep. The B250 drivers do not look solid enough to reproduce 20hz but the way they are used, they do. Until I can find (ha ha) aluminum replacement diaphragms for the T33 tweeters I may try MB Quart titanium domes. I am still trying to figure out how to upload photos. As soon as I do I will post some.
 
Kef107cone.jpg kefcone2.jpg Kefcone3.jpg kefcone7.jpg This is the new cone. Curvature is different. Voice coil wires may rub against cone and buzz. Mass ring needs to be reinstalled. No ring on newer woofers. Foam washer needs to be glued in place. New doughnut needs to be installed. Mass of cone and ring is 22 grams. Rear of cone sealed with glue to match mass of and reinforce strength of original damaged cone. I will make corrections and finish it up.
 
Converting 107 to 107/2 question. Are there different capacitors used for the T33 metal domed tweeter used in the 107/2 or is the eq all done in the kube? Please feel free to redirect me to a link if this has been covered before. Thanks
 
Those bass units are very different to mine, and I'm surprised at the mass ring being on the moving mass of the cone ring, oh well, they must have been needed for something, such as a resonance cure?

My 107s were upgraded by KEF factory to 107/2, which included::-
Sending head units in for new drives and crossover
Sending in old KUBE to be replaced with new design
Nothing in the bass units were shipped or changed by the factory, so they have no bi-wire terminals like true 107/2.

I think that need for KUBE still does an optional part of the tweeter/midrange EQ (it has a HIGH rotary control still) and of course the crossover is different after the upgrade. Maybe KUBE circuit board level knowledge from others can help? I have just a few pictures/diagrams that may help.
 
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