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Kenwood GE-1100 graphic equalizer repair (recap and analyzer issues)

AshhBoy_

New Member
I've been using this beautiful unit for a little while now and thought everything was fine, although a bit crunchy when pressing buttons. The Sound has the 'warm' feeling from old caps and the power supply caps for sure need to be replaced, hence that thread. The first owner was my father, unit was never serviced, and stayed powered off for most of the last 20 years (except the last three lol).

Picture from the brochure: Kenwood_GE-1100-Prospekt-1.jpg

Recently, however, I've tackled some issues with my preamp, and while at it thought I'd group my order for a recap of both this equalizer and the problematic preamp. I'll be replacing all electrolytics without distinction as to where they reside in the equalizer, along with upgrading the plethora of 4558D with NE5532P.

When choosing capacitors, I went with either the cheapest 'audio' Nichicon or general-purpose caps when they presented better specs on paper (used ripple current and service hours as a metric, as they don't include their ESR ratings unfortunately). Kept every single cap with the same rating capacity-wise, but upgraded some in their voltage ratings as it was far cheaper on large quantities (grouping with my DBX-CX3 MKI for the order).

For documentation purposes, I'll be attaching clean pictures of every board once I take them out for soldering, and I can already post my parts lists for the recap. (attachments, can't attach .xlsx for some reason)

Picture of my unit running (sorry for the bad quality, will do one better once I pull it out of my system):
IMG_5521.jpg

I also have a little request for help from the knowledgeable people here, as I was unable to find an answer even after doing three days of research (shame on me maybe?):
The right side of my analyzer display (neon tech I believe) is turning on upon power-up, before giving out for about 15mins while playing. Then it comes back on and works again and stays like this. Only noticed this in the last couple of weeks, and have been using the equalizer for 3 years. My understanding is that it's an expansion and heat-creep-related issue, and I went ahead and redid all the solder joints in the area of the screen hoping one of them was cold. That wasn't a fix, unfortunately. If anyone has information on the way that screen is driven, and what could be the issue, please share it as that would be of tremendous assistance.

Picture of the issue, where we can clearly see some rows and lines not working:
IMG_5549.jpg

I've also tried looking at a 'for parts' unit, but they go for $150-250 in non-working condition here in Europe so that's not a solution I'm keen on as of now. If anyone has the board for the screen and is willing to sell it, I'm interested.

The service manual is available here, and the whole schematic is available but I don't know enough in order to figure out what could be the issue unfortunately, so if anyone is able to help I'd be very thankful!



Thanks for reading me!
 

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First of all check VERY CAREFULLY for bad soldering joint. Lots of gear has this kind of problem. Had lots of them in a Denon unit (POA 2200), and especially at gear from '85-'90s (not looking at new-age stuff).
Good luck!
 
First of all check VERY CAREFULLY for bad soldering joint. Lots of gear has this kind of problem. Had lots of them in a Denon unit (POA 2200), and especially at gear from '85-'90s (not looking at new-age stuff).
Good luck!

Thanks! Happy to learn that I was on the right track. I performed a visual inspection of the boards and couldn't find anything obvious. I'll be redoing every single solder joint once I get the boards out, but I'm afraid that the issue might be with something else.
The board which is holding the screen might or might not be the culprit. People have found the power supply to be faulty on some other models, but it seems this one is extremely complicated compared to those. Following is a (bad sorry) picture of the board holding the display, I'll let you decide if that's high density for the time that beautiful piece of equipment was built...

IMG_5516.jpg
 
Well, you said you have recaped the unit (right?) so you can rule out any bad cap issue...
Thinking that it is working for some time, then stopes, then works again, makes me think that it is a bad soldering joint involved there...
Had a LED on a Technics SH-8066 that did light up, then started to work when it wanted and I did not know why (it was the begining for me too) and just touched it when it was not working (and it should have) and the damn thing started to work. Left it alone for 2-3 years and one day I opened the unit and it was indeed a bad soldering joint (that got worse in time).
So, look carefully. I buster my eyes out with that Denon...
Good luck!
 
Well, you said you have recaped the unit (right?) so you can rule out any bad cap issue...
Thinking that it is working for some time, then stopes, then works again, makes me think that it is a bad soldering joint involved there...
Had a LED on a Technics SH-8066 that did light up, then started to work when it wanted and I did not know why (it was the begining for me too) and just touched it when it was not working (and it should have) and the damn thing started to work. Left it alone for 2-3 years and one day I opened the unit and it was indeed a bad soldering joint (that got worse in time).
So, look carefully. I buster my eyes out with that Denon...
Good luck!


No, I haven't recapped the unit yet, just ordered the parts, and will be doing so when I get the time to (hopefully less than a month, but not sure at all). I was sure it was a bad solder joint at first, but I'm starting to wonder if there couldn't be a rogue transistor or IC driving the display that would have cracked for some reason. Thanks for the wishes :beerchug:
 
You could check voltages at display but, if it were an IC or a transistor, it would have stayed off.
So, get the unit recaped, check for bad soldering joints and let us know how that turned out. We'll see after that what's next.
 
i do quite a few equalizers and one thing that you will notice many times are that low leakage caps are used in the filters. that being said, i have gotten into the habit of using low leakage caps or films (4.7uf and lower) in those locations with all eqs whether they had them or not.

i would not bother with audio grade caps. i would use nichicon ukl (or films if under 4.7uf) throughout the unit except for any caps on the rails/power supply.


i had one of those eqs back in the 90s.. pretty decent unit...
 
If I may, I always see the best on here recommend fixing the issue first before replacing everything.
 
i do quite a few equalizers and one thing that you will notice many times are that low leakage caps are used in the filters. that being said, i have gotten into the habit of using low leakage caps or films (4.7uf and lower) in those locations with all eqs whether they had them or not.

i would not bother with audio grade caps. i would use nichicon ukl (or films if under 4.7uf) throughout the unit except for any caps on the rails/power supply.


i had one of those eqs back in the 90s.. pretty decent unit...

I unfortunately had already ordered everything before learning that films were even a possibility. Other than the fact that they degrade much slower, is there an added benefit to using them? Regarding audio grade or not, I always chose the cheapest if it had better specs than 'audio grade' on paper. I've got quite a few ukls series and others, but sometimes audio were cheaper if ordered in low enough quantities. I'll make sure to look further into films for the next time I'm doing something like this though, thanks!



If I may, I always see the best on here recommend fixing the issue first before replacing everything.
I know I should begin by doing so, and I already fixed the preamp (dbx-cx3) by replacing the output muting transistors, and one of the opamps, which is the primary reason I'm willing to recap everything, as I'm pretty sure both those components failed because of a janky voltage rail.

Regarding the issue with the display on the equalizer (this post), I'm going to redo every soldering joint on the analyzer board, then pull out each transistor and test it, then pull out each cap and do the same, before recapping it. Unfortunately, there are quite a few ICs in there, and my knowledge only goes so far. I couldn't find any info on that piece of hardware and the reason it might fail. I've got a basic oscilloscope, multimeter, and a shitty but good enough signal generator, but I'm way too worried about frying one of the chips on the board as I have absolutely no idea how they work together.

I've also messaged ebay sellers for parts, but no one has the board, and the least expensive out-of-service unit I could find is well... $300 shipped, the same price as the unit in pristine condition lol. I hope someone will have a potential idea for me to investigate, and will otherwise proceed with the recap.
 
you're gonna wanna clean every bit of that glue off the board. that's going to involve removing every component that the glue has gotten on to and either clean the glue+corrosion and re-tin any leads it got on or just replace the part.

99% alcohol sometimes works. next step is acetone. it's been rumored that some people have used freeze spray to freeze it and chip it away. i dunno but acetone is cheap, freeze spray is not.
 
Prima di tutto, controlla MOLTO ATTENTAMENTE che non ci siano giunti di saldatura difettosi. Molti dispositivi hanno questo tipo di problema. Ne ho avuti molti in un'unità Denon (POA 2200), e in particolare in dispositivi degli anni '85-'90 (non sto guardando roba new age).
Buona fortuna!
Ho usato questa splendida unità per un po' di tempo e pensavo che andasse tutto bene, anche se un po' croccante quando si premono i pulsanti. Il suono ha la sensazione "calda" dei vecchi condensatori e i condensatori dell'alimentatore devono sicuramente essere sostituiti, da qui quel thread. Il primo proprietario è stato mio padre, l'unità non è mai stata riparata ed è rimasta spenta per la maggior parte degli ultimi 20 anni (tranne gli ultimi tre lol).

Immagine tratta dalla brochure:View attachment 2816029

Di recente, tuttavia, ho affrontato alcuni problemi con il mio preamplificatore e, mentre ero lì, ho pensato di raggruppare il mio ordine per un riepilogo sia di questo equalizzatore che del preamplificatore problematico. Sostituirò tutti gli elettrolitici senza distinzione in base a dove risiedono nell'equalizzatore, oltre ad aggiornare la pletora di 4558D con NE5532P.

Nella scelta dei condensatori, ho optato per i Nichicon "audio" più economici o per i condensatori multiuso quando presentavano specifiche migliori sulla carta (ho usato la corrente di ripple e le ore di servizio come metrica, poiché sfortunatamente non includono le loro classificazioni ESR). Ho mantenuto ogni singolo condensatore con la stessa capacità di classificazione, ma ne ho aumentati alcuni nelle loro classificazioni di tensione poiché era molto più economico su grandi quantità (raggruppando con il mio DBX-CX3 MKI per l'ordine).

Per scopi di documentazione, allegherò foto pulite di ogni scheda non appena le avrò tirate fuori per la saldatura, e posso già pubblicare l'elenco dei componenti per il riepilogo. (allegati, per qualche motivo non posso allegare file .xlsx)

Immagine della mia unità in funzione (scusate per la scarsa qualità, ne farò una migliore non appena la avrò tolta dal mio sistema):
View attachment 2816026

Vorrei anche chiedere aiuto alle persone competenti qui presenti, dato che non sono riuscito a trovare una risposta nemmeno dopo tre giorni di ricerche (forse mi vergogno?):
Il lato destro del mio display analizzatore (neon tech credo) si accende all'accensione, prima di cedere per circa 15 minuti durante la riproduzione. Poi si riaccende e funziona di nuovo e rimane così. L'ho notato solo nelle ultime due settimane e uso l'equalizzatore da 3 anni. Ho capito che si tratta di un problema di espansione e di scorrimento termico, e sono andato avanti e ho rifatto tutte le giunzioni di saldatura nell'area dello schermo sperando che una di esse fosse fredda. Sfortunatamente non è stato un problema. Se qualcuno ha informazioni sul modo in cui viene azionato quello schermo e quale potrebbe essere il problema, per favore condividilo perché sarebbe di grande aiuto.

Immagine del problema, dove possiamo vedere chiaramente alcune righe e linee che non funzionano:
View attachment 2816028

Ho anche provato a cercare un'unità "per pezzi di ricambio", ma qui in Europa costano 150-250 $ in condizioni non funzionanti, quindi non è una soluzione che mi interessa per ora. Se qualcuno ha la scheda per lo schermo ed è disposto a venderla, sono interessato.

Il manuale di assistenza è disponibile qui e lo schema completo è disponibile, ma purtroppo non ne so abbastanza per capire quale potrebbe essere il problema, quindi se qualcuno può aiutarmi gliene sarei molto grato!



Grazie per avermi letto!
Ciao ragazzoashh io anche ho lo stesso problema del display lato r -destro a volte non funziona!! Sei riuscito a trovare il problema della perdita del display lato r ? Se si fammi sapere che sto diventando matto ti ringrazio in anticipo
 
Hola espero que hayas resuelto es problema en la pantalla. Acabo de adquirir la misma unidad solo tengo problemas en lo leds del lado izquierdo y un led en el lado derecho de las perillas. Le di un mantenimiento una resoldada en los puntos de soldadura de la pantalla. Porque ví que estaba defectuoso e falta revisar los contactos de las perillas. Los leds si están bien los probé en diferentes lados y funcionan. Si ya a tenido ese problema avisas para poder resolverlo
Gracias
 
Hola espero que hayas resuelto es problema en la pantalla. Acabo de adquirir la misma unidad solo tengo problemas en lo leds del lado izquierdo y un led en el lado derecho de las perillas. Le di un mantenimiento una resoldada en los puntos de soldadura de la pantalla. Porque ví que estaba defectuoso e falta revisar los contactos de las perillas. Los leds si están bien los probé en diferentes lados y funcionan. Si ya a tenido ese problema avisos para poder resolverlo
Gracias
 

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