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Kenwood KA-3500 blown resistor after recap

petehall347 said:
dead short to ground then . you need to find it
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So I'm checking everything down the line from Re52 on ohms setting. C35 is showing 0 ohms on both positive and negative side, however the next cap in line, C13, is showing 100 ohms on the positive side (still 0 ohms on negative). Similarly, C14 at the end of that line reads the same as C13, 100 ohms on positive side, 0 ohms on negative. This seems to single out C35 to me, is it safe to say I should be looking down the line that the + side of C35 sits on?
 
Joolian said:
So I'm checking everything down the line from Re52 on ohms setting. C35 is showing 0 ohms on both positive and negative side, however the next cap in line, C13, is showing 100 ohms on the positive side (still 0 ohms on negative). Similarly, C14 at the end of that line reads the same as C13, 100 ohms on positive side, 0 ohms on negative. This seems to single out C35 to me, is it safe to say I should be looking down the line that the + side of C35 sits on?
Click to expand...
with that short those readings are expected . you would be better off looking closely for solder bridges .
 
petehall347 said:
with that short those readings are expected . you would be better off looking closely for solder bridges .
Click to expand...
The only solder bridge I can see (for a component that I touched) is between the negative leads of C15 and C21, although these are very close together and share a pad on the back. There are a couple of other components like this from the factory, but since I didn’t touch them and the amp was working before I’m not concerned about those
 
Big update: it’s working? And I have zero clue what I did. Ground short is gone, powered up on DBT and no smoke, no crackle, dim bulb. All I did today was pull two caps, C35 and C8, to see if they were shorted. They were fine, I put them back in and the short was gone. I’ll get back to this with more info after I check bias, offset, etc.

EDIT: Bias is adjusting fine, DC offset is about -50mV, both channels. To me it's questionable that it's negative DC, should this be concerning?

EDIT 2: After some research I found that + or - DC offset doesn't matter, it's just the distance from 0 that matters (apparently this also goes for bias). Had music going through the amp and into my new (to me) Altec Model 8s no problem! Thank you all so much for your help. I was getting quite frustrated as this was my late father's amp that I wanted to give a new lease on life and I felt so bad I'd messed up the recap. I hope this thread can help someone out in the future
 
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