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Kenwood KR-8010 Pot Cleaning

B

BlueVelvet

New Member
Hello, I recently acquired a KR-8010 but I was having issues with the speaker channels outputting very inconsistently. I did a lot of browsing and I found this forum and some old threads of people with similar issues, primarily this one: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/kenwood-kr-8010-needs-help.138770/
It seems that this user had the exact same issues and mentioned cleaning the pots with DeoxIT. I have some coming in the mail but I would like to know what I am doing before I do it with old equipment. From what I understand, and please correct me if I'm wrong, I want to cotton swab DeoxIT on each of these front knobs and then I want to spray it on the back of each knob (left side of Top picture) while working each knob? Is more disassembly required for this? And then the other OP mentioned that theirs didn't work until I sprayed some on the jumpers that bridged the outputs and the inputs. I'm really not sure what they are referring to there so any input is much appreciated. My background is mostly in computing and lightly soldering circuit boards so this is a while new world to me. Any help is much appreciated.

Top:8010 Top.JPEG


Front:8010 Front.JPEG
 
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1st, did you order a Deoxit D-5 AND a Faderlube can? you need the faderlube for pots and the D-5 for switches and contacts.
 
turboyam said:
1st, did you order a Deoxit D-5 AND a Faderlube can? you need the faderlube for pots and the D-5 for switches and contacts.
Click to expand...
I didn’t. Thank you for the recommendation. Can you point out to me where the jumpers are that bridge the inputs and the outputs? I have a couple of guesses but I don’t want to screw this thing up even more.
 
The jumpers are on the back panel, they are those 2 banana like jumpers across ''pre-out'' and ''power in''. Just pull them out and polish them.
 
I discovered that the teeth of the white plastic piece broke off and found the missing piece in the receiver. Is there any recommended way of replacing this? I could try gluing it back together but I don't imagine it would hold for many or even any rotations.
IMG_8672.jpeg
 
Parts doner unit... Sometimes, the whole board (that includes that broken switch), can be bought for cheap. Look at The Bay... Don't even try to glue that gear together.
 
I recently restored both the KR-8010 and KR-7050 and still have them. They both use this type of cable switching mechanism. Thus, you might be able to salvage one from either reciever. My guess is the other models probably use the same.

You might be able to 3D print a gear. Then fabricated a metal shaft to mount it. Worth investigating.....
 
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