• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Kenwood KR1000 III Nightmare!!!

jcat8s

jcat8s

New Member
I took my receiver to a local service person to have my timer fixed. While he was in there, he discovered bad capacitors and recapped 21 of them. I brought my baby home, plugged her in and I just about cried!!! The nice warm deep bass is gone, the tones and mids sound like they are distorting a bit!!! He said he used Electrolytic Caps on it...please help!!! I have no idea what happened!!! Will it work it's way back in after time, or is it toast???
 
Register to hide this ad
jcat8s said:
I took my receiver to a local service person to have my timer fixed. While he was in there, he discovered bad capacitors and recapped 21 of them. I brought my baby home, plugged her in and I just about cried!!! The nice warm deep bass is gone, the tones and mids sound like they are distorting a bit!!! He said he used Electrolytic Caps on it...please help!!! I have no idea what happened!!! Will it work it's way back in after time, or is it toast???
Click to expand...
It probably just needs to be broken in , I’d let it play for awhile and see if things settle down .

Audiofreak71
 
Tone control readjustment..Dirty switches or controls...


:lurk:
 
jcat8s said:
He said he cleaned all the pots and stuff like that...I didnt hear anything about tone control readjustment
Click to expand...
Maybe your tech had readjusted your front panel controls for you when he cleaned the controls.
 
jcat8s said:
I took my receiver to a local service person to have my timer fixed. While he was in there, he discovered bad capacitors and recapped 21 of them. I brought my baby home, plugged her in and I just about cried!!! The nice warm deep bass is gone, the tones and mids sound like they are distorting a bit!!! He said he used Electrolytic Caps on it...please help!!! I have no idea what happened!!! Will it work it's way back in after time, or is it toast???
Click to expand...

I would be very upset. err mad its not like the factory burned them in for a few days.
 
jcat8s said:
I took my receiver to a local service person to have my timer fixed. While he was in there, he discovered bad capacitors and recapped 21 of them. I brought my baby home, plugged her in and I just about cried!!! The nice warm deep bass is gone, the tones and mids sound like they are distorting a bit!!! He said he used Electrolytic Caps on it...please help!!! I have no idea what happened!!! Will it work it's way back in after time, or is it toast???
Click to expand...

Your tech may have made a genuine mistake with a single pair (L/R) of coupling capacitors somewhere along the line. A 1uF where a 10uF should have been or a 4.7uF where are 47uF should be, especially in tone or high impedance stage coupling.

Sometimes, you really have to look several times at ancient caps under the magnifying glass to confirm where the decimal point is. I'm not excusing him, just suggesting a possible reason for the dramatic loss of bottom end warmth. If the tech ran FR plots before and after, that would have instantly showed up- maybe he didn't?
 
The first thing to check is speaker phasing / polarity. Check your speaker wires, it cant hurt !
Reversed polarity on one speaker will cause many of the symptoms you describe.

Many times we just become accustomed to how a piece of gear sounds and can be very sensitive to changes.

It's not uncommon for a piece of gear to sound different after a recap, how much different and just how it's different varies from unit to unit. Most times there is an improvement; sometimes, not so much. It has a little more / less on one end or the other of the frequency spectrum, the imaging / staging may or may not change as well.

While I see the validity in the concept that recapping should be a good thing, I still fall into the camp of "If it aint broke...."

Good luck, keep us posted
 
Audiofreak71 said:
It probably just needs to be broken in , I’d let it play for awhile and see if things settle down .

Audiofreak71
Click to expand...
Thank you...I'm so hoping that's what it is...I've played it a few hours so far off and on...I will keep it on for the day and see what happens
 
Audiofreak71 said:
It probably just needs to be broken in , I’d let it play for awhile and see if things settle down .

Audiofreak71
Click to expand...
Best case scenario.
restorer-john said:
Your tech may have made a genuine mistake with a single pair (L/R) of coupling capacitors somewhere along the line. A 1uF where a 10uF should have been or a 4.7uF where are 47uF should be, especially in tone or high impedance stage coupling.

Sometimes, you really have to look several times at ancient caps under the magnifying glass to confirm where the decimal point is. I'm not excusing him, just suggesting a possible reason for the dramatic loss of bottom end warmth. If the tech ran FR plots before and after, that would have instantly showed up- maybe he didn't?
Click to expand...
Worst case scenario.
 
Did you authorize extra work such as this? I'd be pissed! Just because caps are oem doesn't mandate replacing what aint broke in my view. I'm sure the "recap everything "gang will beat up on me, but so be it. You know the saying about opinions, no?:lurk:
 
I have a hard time with the concept that electronics need to "burn in".

Do you think your TV, microwave or computer needed time to "burn in", or what about your car ?

With your car it IS likely the power train will benefit from some break in as they are mechanical devices and are prone to wear, for better and worse. Things like your radio, the navigation system or even the ECU are full of electronics that work right from day 1 without any "burn in"

I can swallow that some thermal cycling may have an affect as it mechanically alters the device but the alteration should never lead to it's specifications drifting outside of allowable tolerances. If the parts are within allowable tolerances there shouldn't be any perceivable change in sound.

The idea that an electronic device will change its function or capability after use is called failure.
 
Last edited:
wmgwizard said:
Do you think your TV, microwave or computer needed time to "burn in", or what about your car ?
Click to expand...

TV, yes.

Even LEDs drift from spec over time. If you put a new emitter into a string of emitters with long hours, the new one will be brighter, even if it came from the same lot.

You might not believe in it but it is real.
 
Catmanboo said:
I'm sure the "recap everything "gang will beat up on me, but so be it.
Click to expand...

I'm in the don't recap anything until required gang.

Every time I recap a pair of speakers, it sounds worse for the first several hours of service and then settles back in. I've come to realize I like old caps so I use them longer than most.
 
jcat8s said:
I took my receiver to a local service person to have my timer fixed. While he was in there, he discovered bad capacitors and recapped 21 of them. I brought my baby home, plugged her in and I just about cried!!! The nice warm deep bass is gone, the tones and mids sound like they are distorting a bit!!! He said he used Electrolytic Caps on it...please help!!! I have no idea what happened!!! Will it work it's way back in after time, or is it toast???
Click to expand...

Fresh caps in the audio path will definitely sound a bit harsh but not night and day. I suspect the work needs to be corrected.
 
TomB19 said:
TV, yes.

Even LEDs drift from spec over time. If you put a new emitter into a string of emitters with long hours, the new one will be brighter, even if it came from the same lot.

You might not believe in it but it is real.
Click to expand...

The changes you mention are certainly real but they are the effect of a mechanical change in the LED, not an electrical one.

The thermal cycles of the LED increase the resistance and reduce their brightness, not surprising or hard to accept.

Given your example, the older, dimmer, OUT OF SPEC LED's have technically failed even if they still illuminate. If your brake rotors are worn past a particular thickness specification they have technically failed even though your car still stops.
 
Out of phase speaker wiring will cause a loss of bass. It is also easy to determine. Simply rotate your balance control all the way to one side or the other. If the bass improves at either side, but reduces as you rotate back to center, one of your speakers is wired backwards (+/-).

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom