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Kirksaeter Silverline SL 90s blown?

stevland

New Member
Long story short, a couple of years ago I bought a pair of Kirksaeter Silverline SL 90s from a Marketplace listing — based on their excellent reviews — but without even listening to them.

The seller said they had cosmetic damage but otherwise were in great shape.

He basically met me at the curb and handed them over, telling me that he hated to part with them but he was moving into his van for the summer.

I live in a small town and most people around here are quite trustworthy.

I took them home and didn't even try them out until some time later.

When I did wire them up I found that there was no sound coming from either sub.

I felt like a sucker and tucked them away to deal with later.

Now my main speakers are down for service and it would be nice to use these.

I know very little about speaker tech. How can I test the subs? I'll include a photo of the crossovers.

I was hoping I'd find a simple fuse had blown inside each cabinet, but no such luck. ;)

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note the woofer is labeled a woofer, not a subwoofer.

just trying to help.


if it wasn't soldered, you could connect a multimeter to the positive and negative terminals of the woofer, and see if there's continuity, but it's soldered, so you'd have to unsolder it to test it.
 
note the woofer is labeled a woofer, not a subwoofer.

Lol I appreciate that.

I now realize then my tendency has been to errantly refer to the biggest driver in any given cabinet as the "subwoofer" by default.

Wikipedia says:

The typical frequency range for a subwoofer is about 20–200 Hz for consumer products, below 100 Hz for professional live sound, and below 80 Hz in THX-certified systems.

I've been learning a lot today.

Unfortunately I don't have the capacity to desolder. So I'll have to take these to my electronics guy. But seeing as how I already need to engage him to recap the crossovers in my main speakers as soon as possible I'll have to return these Kirksaeters to the back burner again.

Thank you for your insight.
 
If you have a multimeter just cut the wires and test the resistance. If not, it looks to me like you should take them to the guy that is fixing your crossovers on your other set so he can determine what the problem(s) may be. Good luck!
 
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