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KLH 17 stands

burlyb

Active Member
I made some unobtrusive speaker stands for my KLH 17's that I thought I'd share. Had some 1/4" steel plate bent to 85º and I welded another to form the "shelf" for the speaker. Blued the steel and sealed with Valspar Val-oil.

They were designed to be discrete and not detract from the character of the speaker while getting the speaker (and the sound) up from the floor.

Cheers.
 

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Very nice job that -- KLH 17s are the great speakers too - and that angle at that height probably works well as well.

I'm using my 17s in my office about 4 feet on each side of me at ear height and canted in slightly - and I'm about 3 feet from the wall that they are against.

All said they are about 9 ft apart and I'm in the center 3 feet off the back plane.
 
Those look great. Nice job! I need to make stands for my KLH 20's (same speaker as the 17 but 4ohms) - wish I knew how to weld.

I made some unobtrusive speaker stands for my KLH 17's that I thought I'd share. Had some 1/4" steel plate bent to 85º and I welded another to form the "shelf" for the speaker. Blued the steel and sealed with Valspar Val-oil.

They were designed to be discrete and not detract from the character of the speaker while getting the speaker (and the sound) up from the floor.

Cheers.
 
Very nice. That is on my list of projects for the summer. I may make a few different similar sets of varying heights. One for the 17's,ohms, advents and design acoustics ps-10's. One or two different stand heights may cut it though then i could rotate in whatever i want to listen to. A friend has a large press brake and sheer at his house as well as two welders, i can use whenever, just need some time.

I like the finish on your stands. I may powder coat mine 35% black at work if i don't copy your finish.
 
Thanks all. The angle is probably just a bit too canted and if I did it again I'd go with 87º or 88º. Kinda hard to get 1/4" plate bent that exact though, so it could be made up with the positioning of the shelf.

Nissan Guy - Regarding the finish, to get the bend I had to use hot rolled and I couldn't use my typical technique of bluing plus plumb brown (Birchwood Casey) because the mill scale resists the brown. I've always been partial to patinas on metal to preserve the materiality. Powder coat would be great too (I like the idea of knocking back the percentage), especially if you'll be doing sets and don't want them to look too rustic.

Val-oil has become increasingly difficult to find, but it self levels so well and as long as you're careful about not overdoing the application is really easy to work with. Usually, I use foam rollers, but for this I hand applied three coats with a rag.
 
Those look very nice! I've got my Seventeens on cheap little particle board stands that provide about the same elevation and tilt as yours. I think that's just about the right amount of both. I think I may rip off your design. ;)

John
 
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