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KLH Model 17 Recap?

Steveomatic

Member
I know there is a well put together KLH recap thread. However, I have a question that is not part of that tutorial. I just acquired a set of KLH model 17 speakers that look new. They are in amazingly fantastic aesthetic shape. The tweeters do not work and the woofer sounds muddy. The caps look like they could have just rolled off the assembly line. Even though they look great and they are not leaking is it still a good assumption that they need to be replaced and this is my issue? I tested the woofer and tweeter with a multimeter and they all read fine. I am new at recapping so I wanted to get some feedback first. Thanks!
 

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Put in new caps, then evaluate performance.
I agree. I've restored at least 5 pairs of Seventeens over the years. All of them needed caps. Only one had a dead tweeter. That tweeter I was able to repair by soldering a broken wire under the screen.
 
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BTW, the woofers sound muddy because the tweeters aren't working. Even though the woofers are "full range," they only really give you lows and mids. Everything else falls off and you're left with the mud. Recapping the tweeters will be a very nice surprise.
 
Not to argue the point, but I've not found the original resistors or binding posts to be problematic. After cleaning the switch, I've used a multimeter to check them. Easy enough when the drivers are out of the circuit.

I'm kinda cheap, too, being on a retirement budget, and Seventeens not being all that valuable, I reduce costs wherever I can.
 
There is one area of speaker restoration I rarely see discussed and that is having an equal amount of stuffing in each cabinet. I don't recall the weight of fiberglass stuffing in my models 17's, but on almost all of the speakers I have restored, one speaker had more stuffing than the other. Just finished ADC 303ax's and one speaker had 7oz of stuffing, the other 12oz. A pair of AR3a's I have had 29oz of stuffing in one speaker and only 12oz in the other. Seems especially important on acoustic suspension types to have an equal amount. A small fishing type digital scale with the stuffing in a plastic grocery bag is how I weigh it.
 
assuming they were tuned...I wouldn't change the amt of stuffing until you first hear them n after a recap. if u then hear the bass resonating the cabinets, then add Polyfill-found in bags at ur local wally world. too much poly n u'll loose the bass. my experience. wouldn't change the resistors if they measure within spec. solder flow the connections...maybe even change the wiring to a pure copper or silver wire...okay, went overboard...:confused:
 
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Also, the woofer surrounds must be resealed. Fleabay seller “vintage-ar” has the CORRECT sealer, made for them by Roy C. Doing this will insure you’re getting the correct low end. These are terrific speakers for smallish rooms, 10 X 10 or so.
Regarding the resistors, I’ve never had to replace any. Unless it’s clearly burnt looking, no need.
 
Yeah, Q-4's is what I meant. My bad. As for Mills resistors, I didn't mention them because I seem to recall reading somewhere that the Mills resistors were difficult to get. But if available they would certainly be a top choice.
 
Also, the woofer surrounds must be resealed. Fleabay seller “vintage-ar” has the CORRECT sealer, made for them by Roy C. Doing this will insure you’re getting the correct low end. These are terrific speakers for smallish rooms, 10 X 10 or so.

Good advice. Yes, definitely on replacing the caps, not necessary on the resistors.
Also good advice on sealing the cloth surrounds on the woofers. Vintage KLH speakers will not produce any bass without the woofers sealed. RoyC's goo is the only thing you should use. Any other product will eventually harden and ruin the speakers.

Note: RoyC's goo is not available right now on the eBay Vintage AR Store. You can contact him directly to order the stuff at:

https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/profile/101150-royc/
 
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