KLH Model 6 restore (kind of)
- Thread starter RockinRonnie
- Start date
RockinRonnie
New Member
They are dry to the touch... good to know the test... cheers. Will get the dope from Roy C.
RockinRonnie
New Member
Update and question for the brains trust; thanks for info.... in the process of getting dope from Roy C., new caps are on there way from Parts Express. Found a reasonable priced guy for the damaged woofer solder repair so going with that. Will update when I start the restoration. Wondered if I should replace the white foam ring that sits between the woofer and the cabinet? It is intact but has the screw holes in it. Also planning on balsa wood reinforcement of grill as was mentioned and steam cleaning the grill cloth. The insulation was removed from the cabinet with the bad woofer so I need some pink replacement. I have thrown a lot of that out in the past few renos... but it is very cheap. Will use the unopened one as a reference for quantity...
alteclipsch
Super Member
I've not reused those foam rings, IMO they've long since collapsed and I'd doubt the ability to get an airtight seal. I use rope caulk with an extra chunk at each screw hole. There are a few other opinions around here, too.
RockinRonnie
New Member
Great cheers, never would have thought of that..... cheap and effective.
KJ244
Active Member
I've used the speaker gasketing tape from Parts Xpress to seal the drivers instead of reusing the foam rings. I mentioned the balsa wood reinforcements and have used on several restorations. Also, I've used 18 count Irish linen from 123stitch on occasion if your grill fabric doesn't clean up for you. There are plenty of other fabric suggestions on AK if go that route.
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RockinRonnie
New Member
Thanks KJ244, might have gone that route had I known about it and added it to the cap order.... getting stuff into Canada gets expensive with multiple orders and the rope caulk looks to be a third the cost. Good to know about 123stitch, if the grill fabric doesn't clean up. For my Dynaco's I used a mild (5%) bleach solution and it really restored the brightness...if it did any damage I couldn't see it. Going to start with the steam cleaner.
PS, Your speakers look great with the new fabric! I can see you didn't need much balsa wood to reinforce them.
PS, Your speakers look great with the new fabric! I can see you didn't need much balsa wood to reinforce them.
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GD70
Lunatic Member
RockinRonnie
New Member
Update; Roy C. goop will be here shortly. Woofer lead break is repaired and seems to sound fine (hooked up and listened on low volume out of cabinet so hard to tell but battery test sounded fine (no scratching etc)). I had got a $45 US quote from a speaker specialist shop. I found an electronics guy who did a good job then epoxied it in place then asked for $7 us.... I doubled it. Need to get some new Pink fiberglass and cord caulk and shortly will have no excuse not to get this done. Any tips on how to Deoxit the back switches (from both sides I assume) and solder in the new caps (this will be my second set doing) appreciated. Planning on re-gooping before reinstalling the woofers. Should I also pull the tweeters, gently blow them off, and install new cord caulk on them? Thanks for any insights/suggestions!
alteclipsch
Super Member
Nice deal on that solder job and good on you for doubling that reasonable charge. I'd recaulk the tweeters and brush dust off gently. And I did Deoxit my switches both sides. You'll have a great sounding pair of venerable time capsules there.
Just for S and G, post a pic of the repair.
RTally
Speaker addict
The toggle switch is pretty much a sealed unit. That type of switch has wiping contacts that are self-cleaning. The switch also has an internal lubricant that could be flushed out if a contact cleaner is used.
The best option to ensure the internal contacts are fully operational is to operate the switch back and forth at least 50 times. I suggest you do that while the speakers are playing. If you hear static or crackling while moving the switch, operate the switch some more and it should clear up. I make it a practice to periodically operate all switches on all equipment and speakers.
If the tweeters are working and the woofer passes the push test, I would leave the tweeters alone.
alteclipsch
Super Member
I'd argue that the lube in those switches has hardened and/or evaporated over the last 60 years or so. Ditto on the foam behind the tweeter. Just my opinion.
Also, the Deoxit I use has lube in it.
RTally
Speaker addict
The KLH switches are good quality sealed switches designed for a long operating life. The internal lubrication in those types of switches is a grease in a sealed environment. Even the more exposed slide switches, when disassembled (just recently had to replace a busted switch on a NAD) have good lubricant that lasts a long time.
Deoxit has a lubricant carried by a solvent. Indiscriminate use has messed up more than one pot by flushing the shaft lubricant. The solvent removes the original grease and the lubricant in Deoxit does not work the same way as the original grease.
PS: my opinion is based on years working as a maintenance electrical engineer keeping old power plants running.
RockinRonnie
New Member
Here is the repair.... a bit of discoloration of the paper that doesn't show thru on the outside. On second inspection I am not sure he put any epoxy over it.... that is something i could do before installation.
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GD70
Lunatic Member
Just thinking here, maybe a dab of silicone would work well since it’s flexible.
RockinRonnie
New Member
GD70, good call... want something that can protect that repair and still take the movement. Will put some on t before I Roy C goop it. Still pleased I don't need to find another woofer. Good weight/build quality in those woofers! Should be able to get to the recapping later this week..
hornbostel
Well-Known Member
Indeed. Pic of my KLH 23’s and JBL L100ts. Both claim 12” woofer. Obvious which one is 12”. Other pick shows KLH 23 woofer diameter. Just bit over 9 inches. Still the 23s can sure punch at low frequencies. Amazing. Won’t get rid of my 23s anytime soon! Nor my KLH 6s.
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RockinRonnie
New Member
Finally got to the recap; a dab of silicon on the repair first as GD70 suggested. After soldering in the caps I am glad I didn't try the woofer repair myself....lol...Check out the marble of solder on one cap attachment point. Couldn't find my glue gun so used two sided carpet tape to attach the new caps to the back plate and side. Glad I didn't try the resistors. While I didn't doubt the wisdom of the AK brains trust I was underwhelmed with the sound when I first hooked up the one working one and wondered if they could come up that much. Once the woofers were cord caulked and screwed in I did the Roy C. goop on the centre and surround and hooked them up to an Akai AA-1115 I have setup in the basement. I am blown away how good they sound with a little 15 watt source... unbelievable.... night and day compared to how they sounded before the recapping/gooping. Not sure if I wasted money on the pricier Jantzen Audio caps but the speakers sound amazing. Stunned by the bass and soundstage. My wife was equally surprised by how good they sounded.... always a bonus... she has come around as she did with the coffee machines.
Still have to get to cleaning the grill cloth and reinforcing the grill thin area by the woofer where it often breaks. Vinyl veneer so I can only hide stuff and tweet it a bit but looking forward to finishing the outsides to A/B's with my Marantz against the current champ Dynaco A25's.... think I know which one is going downstairs. So massive thanks again to all who shared there insights and wisdom! Quick question; I was wondering if they will get better sounding as the caps get "broken in"?
Still have to get to cleaning the grill cloth and reinforcing the grill thin area by the woofer where it often breaks. Vinyl veneer so I can only hide stuff and tweet it a bit but looking forward to finishing the outsides to A/B's with my Marantz against the current champ Dynaco A25's.... think I know which one is going downstairs. So massive thanks again to all who shared there insights and wisdom! Quick question; I was wondering if they will get better sounding as the caps get "broken in"?
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alteclipsch
Super Member
Way to go on your progress. I do think the Sixes will smoke your A25s, there's just so much more to them. HOWEVER---I listened to my recapped and resealed A25s just this morning with Prefab Sprout, Two Wheels Good on the table, and oh my, they are so sweet. There's just something about those little gems...
RockinRonnie
New Member
My thoughts exactly.... something about them! I still marvel at their sound two years in to the recap. I didn't know enough two years ago *(or didn't seek the knowledge of AK advisers) to reseal them when I recapped my A25's..though I did change the binding posts. Not even sure there was an old gasket.... if memory serves I just heated them and pulled the grills off the old black goop. Not sure I want to try that again...and reuse those holes yet again.
Also amazed by that Akai! I bought it because it was the most shallow depth vintage receiver I could find and had decent reviews...plan was to rip out the Clarion/Furrion crap bluetooth double DIN 12v stereo that came with my 2016 RV and put the Akai in the expanded and modified hole (also only running 120 V on a seasonal site). Common sense got the best of me so it went to the basement. From what I hear the Model 6's take a decent amp to drive them and it went LOUD with zero noticeable distortion.....just reread some reviews and there is solid love out there for that and the 1125. Totally agree... kept it over a Pioneer SX680 which I sold.... so glad I did.