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KLH model 6 tweeter repair

desertmirage

desertmirage

New Member
Hi!
Hoping you kind folks can help me with the right course of action.

Picked up a pair of model 6 speakers, the guy said one of them didn't work right.

I found out 1 tweeter was bad, 0 ohms. Before I order another one, thought I'd check it out.

Got the grill off the tweeter and saw one of the voice coil wires was broken above the cone, but only about 1/8 or less is sticking out.

So the questions are:
Do I just try to reattach the 2 pieces, knowing there's not much to work with, may burn the cone accidentally, or may heat up the wire too much. (If so, suggestions?)

Or, try to pull the small piece sticking out of the cone a little, so I'll have a better chance to soldering the 2 wires together.

Or, but a used on off the auction site for 20-30 bucks.

Ideas or advice are greatly appreciated!
 

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I soldered one once, I think I may have had a bit more length to work with. IIRC, I put some aluminum foil under the area I was working on to insulate against the gun heat. You've nothing to lose, go for it. Others (the real experts) will help here soon.
 
Thanks for the advice. I was thinking maybe tin the longer wire, then touch it to the small wire with a little heat-
You're right, got nothing to lose but beer money!
 
I think you could solder it. I would add a single strand of wire from some speaker wire and solder it to extend the longer wire first. Then hold it in place with some tweezers and solder it to the short lead by the cone. Defininately cover the cone to protect it.
 
Ok, don't think I want to do that again. The wire was so short, as I tried to solder it, a little ball of solder formed around it. The long lead going to the terminal ended up getting stuck to it, and it works! 4.2 ohms, and static with a battery test.
Can't say it looks pretty, but will run them for a week to see what happens.

I wonder, is there any slack in the short wire that goes to the voice coil? Could I have pulled any up to get a better connection?

Thanks for your advice!!!
 
I have no idea if there's slack there, but I wouldn't have tried to pull on it. Those wires are so thin, old, and after years and years of minute vibrations, could even be fatigued (I don't know that, just my intuition). The one I did had a little solder ball too, and was ugly, but back under the screen was invisible. Good job, enjoy those Sixes--a fine speaker from heady days!
 
desertmirage said:
Ok, don't think I want to do that again. The wire was so short, as I tried to solder it, a little ball of solder formed around it. The long lead going to the terminal ended up getting stuck to it, and it works! 4.2 ohms, and static with a battery test.
Can't say it looks pretty, but will run them for a week to see what happens.

I wonder, is there any slack in the short wire that goes to the voice coil? Could I have pulled any up to get a better connection?

Thanks for your advice!!!
Click to expand...
Good news!
 
This post was helpful in my repair of a Model 17 tweeter (the black ones) which had a broken lead wire.

My thoughts:
  • Getting the metal grill off the front is a true PITA - I had to bend the grill quite a bit due to the massive amount of glue they use.
  • Goo Gone does soften the glue a bit - used it to clean it off the metal speaker surround and inside of the grill
  • The wire is very tiny, thin and brittle - I used a jewelers loupe and an exacto knife to carefully remove some of the glue holding the wire down on the outer side of the speaker. Had to create enough slack to get the two ends to meet up
  • To solder, I added some flux (makes them stick together a bit) and slid the tip of a toothpick underneath the joint to protect the speaker cone from the solder.
  • I was able to get some solder on the tip of the iron and dab enough on there to get them soldered together.
  • Tested and working now!
  • Still have to get the grill back on - the goo gone I used to remove the glue removed all the black paint - need to spray paint black and reglue to the front of the tweeter (although it just acts as protection).
 
ringading said:
This post was helpful in my repair of a Model 17 tweeter (the black ones) which had a broken lead wire.

My thoughts:
  • Getting the metal grill off the front is a true PITA - I had to bend the grill quite a bit due to the massive amount of glue they use.
  • Goo Gone does soften the glue a bit - used it to clean it off the metal speaker surround and inside of the grill
  • The wire is very tiny, thin and brittle - I used a jewelers loupe and an exacto knife to carefully remove some of the glue holding the wire down on the outer side of the speaker. Had to create enough slack to get the two ends to meet up
  • To solder, I added some flux (makes them stick together a bit) and slid the tip of a toothpick underneath the joint to protect the speaker cone from the solder.
  • I was able to get some solder on the tip of the iron and dab enough on there to get them soldered together.
  • Tested and working now!
  • Still have to get the grill back on - the goo gone I used to remove the glue removed all the black paint - need to spray paint black and reglue to the front of the tweeter (although it just acts as protection).
Click to expand...
It's heartening to see others attempt and succeed to save these old, but superb tweeters. I've found that even if the break isn't obvious on the slack portion of the wire, a cold or corroded solder joint where it meets the frame can be repaired.

Also, I've just sliced the glue holding the screen on with an exacto knife and pulled it off. I re-flattening it on a plastic cutting board and rubbing it with a flat, steel coffee tamper.
 
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This post gave me the confidence to give this a try I was about to order some new tweeters and stumbled across this and figured why not give a try. I picked up some KLH model 17s didn’t do good enough of an inspection got home hooked them up and realized both tweeters were not working and had 0ohms. Took one of the tweeters apart and found that tiny little wire was separated. With just a very small amount poking through I tested the resistance from the other lead and low and behold I get 4+ Ohms. What is the cause of this? Just old and brittle? To much power to the speakers? Combination?

Hoping all goes well going to give a try tonight. Would love to keep these speakers all original.

here is a close up pic of them.
 

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If you're able to connect the wire back to its mooring, that 4+ ohms is normal for that tweeter. I have a couple of them with 4.2 and 4.3 ohms. You have a very little stub of wire to work with, and you'll need to clean the varnish off both ends and get a little glob if solder in there. It's microsurgery but can be done.
 
I’m sorry I should have explained a little better for my questions. I meant what causes the coil wire to break off like that? I’m sure there are multiple different reasons. But yes I have quite the setup for this operation. Currently working on getting that varnish off now.
 
Update got them soldered back together with 4.1 and 4.2 ohms. Thanks yall for me piggy backing off this post. Now time to recap my Crossovers.
 
Just a forewarning I haven’t soldered much in my life especially very small gauge wires. Not the prettiest but it holds up pretty well. Hopefully all works well after the recap. I did the test with a battery and there is static. I unfortunately didn’t take any pics during the process.







OEDCE350F-A9A2-4BCA-A744-FE25673435CB.jpeg
 
That solder job is perfect. For what little you had to work with on that tiny stub of wire, right next to the dust cap, it looks great. Way to go!
 
Thank you much appreciated! I ordered my caps last night. should be in sometime this week. Eager to here how these KLH 17 speakers work. I have heard nothing but good things about them after a good Recap.
 
Just a little nit: When a wire breaks you don't get zero ohms, you get infinity ohms. Zero is a good piece of wire...
 
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