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Klipsch RF-7III, the journey begins.

Oh yea - big time difference! I still wonder why they put the complexity on the tweeter though. Maybe if I ever do mess with the x-over, I will keep the bass design but put a 1st order on the tweeter and see what it sounds like.

I guessed on the impedance, too. Do you think the woofers are 8 too or 4 each? The speaker acts like it is low impedance - Klipsch always says "Compatible with 8 ohms" or something. I love the efficiency, I just wish they would publish the impedance plot!

-Geoff
 
Oh yea - big time difference! I still wonder why they put the complexity on the tweeter though. Maybe if I ever do mess with the x-over, I will keep the bass design but put a 1st order on the tweeter and see what it sounds like.

I guessed on the impedance, too. Do you think the woofers are 8 too or 4 each? The speaker acts like it is low impedance - Klipsch always says "Compatible with 8 ohms" or something. I love the efficiency, I just wish they would publish the impedance plot!

-Geoff

They're probably 8 ohm woofers, with the pair wired in parallel. An easy way to tell is by measuring the DC resistance across the speaker terminals. I'll bet it's around 3.5 ohms?
 
If you want to attenuate by adding more series resistance, and want the transfer function to be similar to stock, the 2.1uf capacitor needs to be smaller. If kept stock, the wanted attenuation will occur a few octaves above the crossover point.

An easy way to do this is by adding a resistor AND capacitor between the speaker cable and the high pass input. If my simulations are correct, adding a series 3 ohm resistor will get you another 2db of attenuation. The capacitance then needs to be dropped from 2.1uf to around 1.7uf to adjust for the added impedance. Placing an 8uf capacitor in series with the additional 3 ohm resistor will accomplish just that.

I may try something similar to my RF-83's, as they sometimes scream a little more than I like.

Mike
 
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
I'm headed to the music room to plant myself in front of these beauties for a while and spin some vinyl. I've changed nothing on the crossovers since the last post. They pair extremely nice with my Western Electric 300B tubes. From my standpoint and those of my music listening guests it's really great!
 
Winter has set in in Wisconsin, what better time to get at the next upgrade to the RF7-3 speakers. For some time I’ve wanted to upgrade the wiring inside the cabinets. My method of improvement has always been to do one speaker at a time to see what I get for the work. Left channel first. I removed all the stock wiring and rewired with Hepta Litz 12 ga. wire. I used Litz inductors when I did the crossovers. I did a fair amount of research reading and decided to give it a try for the internal cabinet wiring as well. I measured the longest run and matched all wire lengths to that. Wires up to the horns were run in tubing up the sides of the cabinet. If you read back you’ll see I split the crossovers up and mounted them in the lower cabinet. My first listening session was very positive. Doing one side at a time sent the room into a trapezoid illusion from the increased depth I achieved. A day later the second speaker was up and running, all the beginner wiring has now been removed from my system. I build most everything myself with a good amount of research beforehand. If you’ve got an upgrade planned, don’t forget the wire.
 
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