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Lansaloy Surround Replacement (JBL LE-14C)

ConnorFul

New Member
Hi All,

I have found a white foam supplier on Ebay I have used to re-foam LE-8 drivers and passives. I am now working on some LE-14C woofers. Typically with surrounds only, I glue the foam to the cone and use a 30hz test CD to center the voice coil while adhering the foam to the basket (if doing a recone I'll use shims). Due to the nature of the JBL LE series, the attachment surface on the baskets is very thin, smaller than a 1/4in. WITHOUT USING SHIMS, what do you all recommend for centering? I am thinking to reverse the process and glue the foam to the basket and use my test tone to seat the foam to the cone. I successfully installed one of the drivers my traditional way but have been struggling to get the second one centered. Unfortunately for this pair the previous owner did a hack job with black foam and has given me a run for my money getting them cleaned up.
 

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Due to the nature of the JBL LE series, the attachment surface on the baskets is very thin, smaller than a 1/4in.
Does the LE14C have a hard rubber trim ring that sits in the corner of the frame on top of the surround? That should secure the surround to the frame.
 
Does the LE14C have a hard rubber trim ring that sits in the corner of the frame on top of the surround? That should secure the surround to the frame.
Hi Malden, yes it does which works well to lock the perimeter down, but doesn’t help with centering. I’m going to try my outside-in glue method sometime this week
 
what about securing the surround to the frame with cloth-pins while gluing the surround to the cone?
 
what about securing the surround to the frame with cloth-pins while gluing the surround to the cone?
Not a bad idea! It’s difficult to get a clamp in there since the mating surface is recessed. Could probably find a way. You bring up a good point with the rubber lock ring gasket though. Maybe I set the surround in as true as possible, dryfit the rubber gasket to “clamp it” and then glue the inside surround to the cone. Once that dries, remove the gasket, hook up the test tone, and glue the outside to the basket?
 
yes, use the rubber gasket to level the surface, it will also distribute the pressure from the cloth-pins.

I would use the test tone while gluing to the cone to keep it in the same position while gluing to the frame
 
yes, use the rubber gasket to level the surface, it will also distribute the pressure from the cloth-pins.

it's not normally done when gluing the surround to the cone but in this case, I would use the test tone while doing so to keep the cone in the same position while gluing to the frame
Thank you! The new surrounds will be here tomorrow and I’ll give it a go. Had to sacrifice one on my first attempting so waiting for a new set
 
Well I tried another new surround, this time gluing the foam to the cone, and setting the perimeter in the basket with the gasket. I played a 40hz test tone. Then once it firmed up but wasn’t fully cured, I glued the perimeter and gasket in place and played the test tone again. Everything seems to be centered and 40hz and 60hz test tones don’t show any coil rub. Pressing around the cone evenly doesn’t rub when close to center, but I can feel/hear some rub when pressing up near the edges (pressure always even on opposing sides). On a 20hz - 125hz sweep, I hear a rattle around 70hz I’d say. Which may be a debonded or not fully bonded glue point on the surround? The Aquaplas coating on the cone isn’t fully smooth.. Should I put these in a cabinet and try them? I’m not 100% confident in the success of this. These drivers have really given me a run for my money compared to others
 

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have you tried them?
Not yet. Turns out the guy I’m doing them for doesn’t have cabinets yet… I have a pair of JBL Lancer 99 that they would fit in, crossovers are different though. I have another surround that I’m going to try and then I will play them through those cabinets.
 
I'm pretty sure the s99's have the same X-over as the Le14C,
After all they both use the Le20 tweeters
unless you have the very early 16 ohm version.
bobhorn
 
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