Leak 2060 - Tweeter Replacement Recommendation

[Zeus12]

Greetings fellow audiophiles!

Got this nice pair of LEAK 2060 speakers and I was looking for a tweeter replacement. They sound great! The bass on these is so SMOOOOOOOOTH that it´s the best part about them--according to my ears. The mids are OK but the highs are too screechy or "hot" for me. I know a few people have recommended the following:


Peerless D27TG-35-06 1" Silk Dome Tweeter @ian_munday

SEAS T25 Excel recommended by fellow user @drbiggles

from here: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...ids-needs-new-capacitors-grills.684186/page-4

I have recapped and changed the back binding posts.



From what I have read, the "MKI" had round mounting plate in black plastic and the "MKII"- which is the one I have-- has a square mounting plate in silver. Dimensions are 11mm for the square mounting plate and 4mm for the tweeter screws.





Would appreciate if someone could tell me what a good dome tweeter replacement would be? The smoother, the better, so I would imagine a soft dome (paper) type. I would like to keep the original square silver mounting plate--or at least not drill any holes in the cabinet.

Cheers!!

 

[drbiggles]

Hay,

Replacing drivers is a lot more involved than removing some screws. And integrating a tweeter into a vintage system can be downright frustrating to impossible. You think you may have got it, but then the response isn’t linear and your ears bleed at higher volumes. If you can find an 8 ohm tweeter that’s too hot, then use an 8ohm lpad to attenuate it as you go. Plus you’re going to need to design the crossover for it to blend it in to the existing system. The Leak 2060 loudspeaker is what it is. Enjoy it, then when you’re done, pass it along. Look for something English and newer, tweeters get better and better.

Biggles

 

[homebrew]

Could be a Philips or Wharfedale tweeter. Pull it out and see if there's an ID sticker on the back.
Here's what they should look like:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134412391443?hash=item1f4b9a5413:g:A54AAOSwV4tjwtZ-

 

[Zeus12]

Thanks for your help fellows!

Yes, it´s the purple tweeter @homebrew The one in your link is the MKI version, with the metal plate. I have the MKII version, with the silver plate. It´s the purple one which is a very common one also used in the Wharfedales, from what I read.

It´s not that I don´t like the current tweeter, but I just find it too "hot". It is calling too much attention to itself. I prefer more of the "rolled-off" sound, a.k.a. Avery Fisher type.

A lot of people find it "hot" and just wanted to know if any of you had used a specific replacement with better results. It´s a 6 ohm purple tweeter and the sensitivity should be around 90 dB. It I would match that, wouldn't that make it "play" along with the crossover just fine?

Perhaps, would be better to use a small value resistor to "tame" it down? The "Zobel" network, which @drbiggles mentions?

So I would add a 1 or 2 ohm resistor on the "red" wire of the tweeter? i.e. solder one end of the resistor to the + lead of the tweeter and the other to the wire?

Cheers!

 

[homebrew]

Yes you can add a resistor in series with the positive lead to the tweeter. It will alter the crossover point to a small degree but very doubtful you'll notice.

 

[drbiggles]

Over the last handful of years I've designed and implemented 5 zobel networks. One most notibly for a pair of Pioneer CS-77's woofer and mid drivers. Oddly enough, the horn tweeter has a pretty decent impedence curve. The other two look like Mobius strip, which is why they sound like they do. I figured the zobel would smooth things out. Well, it certainly did that, and more. It sterilized the drivers response, flattened it right out. My audio buddy and I just stared at each other. Had you ever heard a more boring presentation? Probably not. No more zobels for me. Maybe if I could learn how to tame a specific frequency hump. But not a general zobel network as it sits.

Biggles

 

[homebrew]

A Zobel in and of itself isn't the solution. By changing the driver's impedance profile, changes the overall response. It has to be integrated into the crossover design as a whole.

 

[Zeus12]

Hi again!

OK then. You guys convinced me to just LEAVE IT ALONE .

By the way, I just noticed that there is a little "green" resistor for the tweeter. One lead is connected to the cap and the other to the back of the crossover. I can´t read the exact value on it but would increasing the value have the same effect? Is this the same principle (Zobel) we have been talking about?


Also, should have used regular electrolitics instead of the poly DYNAUDIO caps for the tweeter.

All I know is that this speaker has one of the BEST BOTTOM END I have heard so far---in my limited and short audiophile journey. It´s sooooooooo smoooooth that just soothes you and calms you. Probably the almost 5 kg. weight of the magnet has something to do with it, .




Cheers!!

 

[drbiggles]

Quit messing with stuff! But if you want to tame the tweeter a tad, go get electrolytics instead of poly caps. That was my complaint on my 2060s as well, poly caps were too bright.

Biggles