perryinva
IS it vintage????
Was thinking of doing the LED replacements while I was replacing & repairing face glass on my my mac gear and this is what I found:
The MR78 has 5 1866 for panels and 2 1847 for meters..I'll just assume the festoons are standard.
The MC2105 has 4 1866 for faceplate and 4 1888 for the meters. (BTW, just put a new factory glass on the 2105...just TOO cool with new glass!!)
The C28 is also 4 1866 for faceplate and 8 1847 for button lights.
Just wondering to be sure tho..the only difference between the 1888, 1866, and 1847 bulbs the brightness, right? All are 6.3 V but the 1888 is 0.5A, 1866 is 0.25A, 1847 is 0.15A. I have a ton of 1847's (one of the standard annunciator bulbs from work,
), and put them in place of the 2105s 1866 and really could not tell the difference, so is there something else I'm missing?
Do the LED replacements come in different brightness as well? If not then, they would all be the same replacement bulb, which might not (visually) work right then. Also, the height of the filament part of the bulb relative to the base is important on most of mine, as the "fiber optic effect" of the light transmission is dependant on the filament being close to the plastic edge. Too far away and the output is greatly reduced (not relevent to the 1900, just the glass panel models). Any experience with that?
The MR78 has 5 1866 for panels and 2 1847 for meters..I'll just assume the festoons are standard.
The MC2105 has 4 1866 for faceplate and 4 1888 for the meters. (BTW, just put a new factory glass on the 2105...just TOO cool with new glass!!)
The C28 is also 4 1866 for faceplate and 8 1847 for button lights.
Just wondering to be sure tho..the only difference between the 1888, 1866, and 1847 bulbs the brightness, right? All are 6.3 V but the 1888 is 0.5A, 1866 is 0.25A, 1847 is 0.15A. I have a ton of 1847's (one of the standard annunciator bulbs from work,
Do the LED replacements come in different brightness as well? If not then, they would all be the same replacement bulb, which might not (visually) work right then. Also, the height of the filament part of the bulb relative to the base is important on most of mine, as the "fiber optic effect" of the light transmission is dependant on the filament being close to the plastic edge. Too far away and the output is greatly reduced (not relevent to the 1900, just the glass panel models). Any experience with that?