Linn Axis

[petrnyc]

Hello,
I had in my storage a Linn Axis, took its tone arm to put on my Thorens TD150 in Linn LP12 plinth.
As I worked on the Thorens, I listened more to the Axis and found it is a very capable TT.
I think ill keep it as a spare 2nd deck.

I have a decision to make, Right now, the Axis has a fairly recent only 33 Valhalla that runs the old Axis Motor on its pcb, (The old original Axis power supply is still in it , since the motor is attached to it,) its missing its Heat sinks and The 33/45 solder in switch.

I also have spare linn motor I could put in that Axis , use the 33 Valhalla take out the original motor with the pcb ps and sell for parts.

Or I could keep the 33 Valhalla pull the Axis motor of the PCB to hard mount in the chassis and use it that way, then sell original axis ps pcb for parts, keep spare linn motor.

Last option is, to keep Axis PS pcb in it take out the Valhalla and look for 33/45 switch and heat sinks and have 33/45 (mind you I am not sure if the original Axis PS works, visually it looks good caps and all no visible problems.)
Will Have the spare Valhalla and spare linn motor.

Trouble is, I have looked for switch and heat sinks already and had no luck, no where to be found....

What do you think is the best option?

 

[vinylkid58]

The fact that the Axis is running on a Valhalla would suggest that the original PS is toast, or just no working properly. You could buy a Hercules to run the Axis motor, and have both 33 and 45 RPM.

jeff

 

[petrnyc]

Jeff,
Thanks, good idea, but I do not necessarily want to drop more money on the deck.

I think in a way whoever did the Valhalla install was meant as an upgrade.. I feel the Axis PS is ok.

The real problem is finding the switch and the proper heat sink to make it work if someone has them for sale please reach out, they seem to be nowhere to be found.

 

[vinylkid58]

I think in a way whoever did the Valhalla install was meant as an upgrade.. I feel the Axis PS is ok.

IMHO, the Valhalla isn't an upgrade, and this was installed because there's something wrong with the stock PS. I've come across a lot of threads where people were having issues with the PS in their Axis. If you could make a heat sink and find a switch, you could test the Axis PS and see if it is in fact ok. Finding an original Axis heat sink would be the proverbial needle in a haystack.

jeff

 

[petrnyc]

Understood. you are most likely right about the history of the deck.
Only way to find out is to find a switch which is probably a Pin in the haystack as hard as the needle (of a heatsink…) in the haystack!
can’t really make my mind up on which is the right way to go with the stuff I have.
thank you

 

[petrnyc]

anyone would know how to rigg/makeshift a "test" power button for the Axis supply?

 

[Hamish119]

anyone would know how to rigg/makeshift a "test" power button for the Axis supply?

You'll require a momentary action (non-latching), fully-insulated switch between Pins 1 & 2 (leftmost pins when viewed with heatsink at rear of PCB). You'll also require a heatsink for the 4x driver transistors otherwise they'll spontaneously combust!.

*********************************************************************************************
**************************** WARNING WARNING WARNING ****************************
********************************** DANGER OF DEATH! **********************************
*********************************************************************************************

When you connect mains power to the PCB, it's LIVE! At mains potential! There is no mains isolation switch.
Touching anything electrically conductive that is connected to the PCB:e.g the Start/Stop switch cabling, may cause serious injury or death.
Exercise extreme caution when/if working on the Axis PCB (just as you would when/if working on the Valhalla PCB). A mains isolation transformer should be considered 'essential'!

N.B. The motor casing and heatsink should be connected to mains ground.

If in doubt, seek professional assistance.

Be careful and...
Good Luck!

 

[petrnyc]

Hamish119 thank you.

to turn the motor on 33, hold down briefly, turn to 45 hold down longer? I think that is how the original works?

I will be careful, thank you

 

[Hamish119]

...to turn the motor on 33, hold down briefly, turn to 45 hold down longer? I think that is how the original works?

That is exactly how it's meant to operate (but doesn't always...).

If you want to test the Axis PCB logic functionality in complete safety (or as safe as your 'street' PSU allows), disconnect the mains supply, feed 12V DC across C5 (observe polarity) and go nuts!

N.B. 12V DC PSUs (of variable quality) are available on street corners all around the world.

Good Luck!

pcas011_cct_diag .pdf

PCAS 011 Liste.pdf

 

[petrnyc]

Hamish119 Thank you for all the info.
Will test it out this weekend if I find some moment…

 

[petrnyc]

Still waiting for a heat sink to test the board, I did switch the large caps already. Hope it works .

 

[petrnyc]

I finally received the heat sink, second try, first one got lost in shipment....

The power supply works!! I only changed the 6 large capacitors, the small ones looked good.
33rpm and 45rpm, strange thing is I push button, turn it on and its 33, turn it off, turn it on again but hold the button longer and it goes to 45 after few seconds.
Is this proper function?
The transistors are not getting too hot, my heat sink is larger than the factory specked, and I am going to keep the ps out of the Axis in separate box.
But the two 15K black resistors are cooking., I thought the heat units went on in my house it smelled like that some dust burning off...... is there a heat sink that can fit on the resistor body?
And one more, what replaces R1?
Anyway, thank you all for your help.

 

[vinylkid58]

33rpm and 45rpm, strange thing is I push button, turn it on and its 33, turn it off, turn it on again but hold the button longer and it goes to 45 after few seconds.
Is this proper function?

Yes.

But the two 15K black resistors are cooking., I thought the heat units went on in my house it smelled like that some dust burning off...... is there a heat sink that can fit on the resistor body?

I think a chassis mount power resistor is going to be a pain to mount. I don't know what wattage those resistors are, maybe 5w. You could try a larger wattage wirewound.

And one more, what replaces R1?

The schem I have lists R1 as being deleted, and replaced by two varistors.

jeff

 

[petrnyc]

Yes.



I think a chassis mount power resistor is going to be a pain to mount. I don't know what wattage those resistors are, maybe 5w. You could try a larger wattage wirewound.



The schem I have lists R1 as being deleted, and replaced by two varistors.

jeff

Jeff, thank you, would you know by chance the varistor value?

 

[vinylkid58]

Ok, I found a BOM on diyaudio: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ana...airing-linn-axis-motor-drive-amplifier-3.html

It's a bit hard to read, but the varistor is listed as 150v 232259451516, which comes up as a Vishay part. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/232259451516?qs=suR%2Bvtf7Lw619UTNCPshrw==

jeff

 

[petrnyc]

Ok, I found a BOM on diyaudio: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ana...airing-linn-axis-motor-drive-amplifier-3.html

It's a bit hard to read, but the varistor is listed as 150v 232259451516, which comes up as a Vishay part. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/232259451516?qs=suR%2Bvtf7Lw619UTNCPshrw==

jeff

Thank you!

 

[Nashou66]

Ok, I found a BOM on diyaudio: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ana...airing-linn-axis-motor-drive-amplifier-3.html

It's a bit hard to read, but the varistor is listed as 150v 232259451516, which comes up as a Vishay part. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/232259451516?qs=suR%2Bvtf7Lw619UTNCPshrw==

jeff

looks like its not available any longer.

would this one work?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/VDRS10P150BSE?qs=p0FfUnYFXn9hQbudq0QipQ==

Athanasios

 

[petrnyc]

looks like its not available any longer.

would this one work?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/VDRS10P150BSE?qs=p0FfUnYFXn9hQbudq0QipQ==

Athanasios

Hi,
Yes that’s the one I found as well. It would probably work well. I might just keep it as is R1 in… seems to run well. Need to figure out heat sinks for the 15k resistors. That’s what I am concentrating now on.. they are hottttttt!!!
thanks

 

[Nashou66]

Hi,
Yes that’s the one I found as well. It would probably work well. I might just keep it as is R1 in… seems to run well. Need to figure out heat sinks for the 15k resistors. That’s what I am concentrating now on.. they are hottttttt!!!
thanks

Looks like thats the one I liked to

Nashou

 

[petrnyc]

Just for people to see, I finished the unit , made it an outboard PS, the reason for it was I could not find the original heat sink nor the switch to fit into the chassis..
So, here it is in a "cake " box, to me it looks good, has a kill all power switch push on 33/45rpm switch and the two diodes indicating 33/45. Added benefit was real good ventilation gap in the back see pictures, I added heat sinkes to the two 15k resistors and the new heat sink for the 4 transistors is larger as well, should keep cool...
There is only motor in the Axis box, I used the original 120v connector for my motor feed, no other holes drilled.....