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Looking for rotary input selector switch recommendations

grindfix

grindfix

Full time hobby
Subscriber
What are you guys using in your builds?
I need 5 position 2 pole shorting (make before break) switch with knurled shaft.
I'm trying to use vintage knobs on preamp I've been building / working on for a while.

Anyone ever used Alpha Taiwan switches? What's their quality like?

Alps have nice looking closed type switches but I can't seem to find one that meets all of the criteria. Knurled shaft option seems to be the most difficult to find.
 
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I use a grayhill but no audio goes through it. I use it to activate relays, and LEDs. Doing it this way makes it easier to source the switch and get it to work right.
 
Input switches are usually break-before-make, attenuators are usually make before break.

For input selection I have gone to using relays in the signal path. For actuation I will use either a rotary switch or a one-button stepper circuit.
 
I use an Elma rotary stereo switch for my input selector, but it is "break before make". It is choosing from 3 inputs, but it is good for up to 6 choices. They have other configurations, and also make before break, but, AFAIK, all their switches are half-shaft.
 
After being disappointed with rotary switches in general (availability -- as you've noted; performance; reliability; susceptibility to noise, etc.) I'm "standardizing" on inexpensive audio input relay PCBs with decent DPDT switching relays. No pops when switching sources; minimal crosstalk; and low noise are all benefits. And each system costs less than a decent mechanical switch.
 
BuzzK said:
After being disappointed with rotary switches in general (availability -- as you've noted; performance; reliability; susceptibility to noise, etc.) I'm "standardizing" on inexpensive audio input relay PCBs with decent DPDT switching relays. No pops when switching sources; minimal crosstalk; and low noise are all benefits. And each system costs less than a decent mechanical switch.
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Jon-- can you link to what you're using?
It's frustrating. I probably went through 20 datasheets and spent 2-3 hrs without satisfying results.
I'm about to just pull selector switch out of dead Realistic receiver that's not worth a repair. It has 5 positions and knurled shaft...
 
The Grayhill switches are mil spec and very expensive but if you can find one on Ebay that matches your requirements I doubt you can get better quality.

BillWojo
 
I was using the RS 2 pole 6 position break-before-make notaries in my stuff, reliable and long lasting for the price.
 
While I love using relays for power switching, using them for input switching seem to be moving away from simplicity. I’m not raising argument or trying to dismiss positive experience you guys have using them. At the moment, it’s just not what I’m looking for. I’ll look into Grayhill switches and if no joy, I’ll use one out of dead Realistic receiver. Meanwhile, if anyone has other suggestions, please post. Thanks
 
arts said:
Input switches are usually break-before-make, attenuators are usually make before break.

For input selection I have gone to using relays in the signal path. For actuation I will use either a rotary switch or a one-button stepper circuit.
Click to expand...
I've heard people say MBB is better for audio input switching and you saying BBM is better. Are there any reads about it?
BBM is easier to get with knurled shaft.
 
grindfix said:
I've heard people say MBB is better for audio input switching and you saying BBM is better. Are there any reads about it?
BBM is easier to get with knurled shaft.
Click to expand...

Nowhere did I say anything is better.

Traditionally, BBM is used for input selection simply to prevent two unrelated inputs from playing simultaneously during switching.
 
MBB may or may not be quieter switchover, but runs the risk of putting two different sources in parallel, with unintended consequences to one or both. BBM imo is better, assuming source outputs are properly internally terminated and free of offset. If so, switching should be quiet and free of popping.
 
grindfix said:
Those look just like Alpha Taiwan switches.
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The RS switches are simple open BBM design without swedged dissimilar metals construction. Easy to lube and maintain, and inexpensive. They may be identical to similar switches on offer. I went with these after negative experience with others.
 
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