Looking for Teac 61630 Solenoid for early A-4010S. Any advice?

[DannyE]

Greetings All, newbie member, newbie at Reel-to-Reel repair, so please forgive me if this is a dumb question.

Trying to resurrect an A4010S that I bought non-working. Long story short, the pinch roller solenoid is burned out (infinite resistance, charred coil sleeve). It is marked "Teac 61630" and 200 Ohm. I found two A-4010S pinch roller solenoids on ebay, but they both look different, different part number, and are marked 1300 Ohm. I've noticed my A4010S has several differences from others I have seen (different left-side tension arm, different rectifier board with no fuses, and different pinch roller solenoid), so I think I have an early model.

Anybody have an idea where I can find a 200 Ohm solenoid for my version? If not, what is the alternative? I'm guessing something in the circuit driving the solenoid must be different in the newer versions, since the solenoid resistance is different? Point being, I doubt I can just swap my 200 Ohm solenoid for a 1300 Ohm Solenoid.

Thanks in advance!

 

[rojoknox]

Greetings from RojoLand!

The service manual for A-4010GSL shows part number 50616300 — note that '61630' is in the middle of that number. The older A-4010S manual (for serial numbers 14459 and up) shows part number 61621-1, so your A-4010S is apparently a later one. (What's its serial number?) I would think that if you check the Dock-o'-the-'Bay for Teac A-4010S, A-4010SL or A-4010GSL parts, you will encounter a suitable solenoid. Indeed, I just looked, and among several older ones, I found this one which is marked '61630':

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274569887972

Take care,
—
J. E. Knox "The Victor Freak"

 

[DannyE]

Hi Rojo (should I call you Rojo? J.E.? )

First off, you're the best! I had actually seen that part on the 'Bay but it's actually the Brake solenoid ... I know that because it's identical to mine including the plunger, capacitor, and wire colors. That said, I had thought about removing my Brake solenoid to check if it was the same coil, but that looked difficult so I didn't. And I didn't flip through all of the pix on 'Bay for that listing so I didn't notice it was the same part number. Dooh! So despite the incorrect labeling on 'Bay, that will work perfect for me thanks!

As to my serial number ... umm ... my serial number tag seems to be missing. I see a hand-written practically illegible sticker on the amp but I'm guessing it's no help (posting the picture anyway). One possible clue is that my rectifier board (which I've seen described on 'Bay as a capacitor board but I'm 99% sure it's really the rectifier board?) is Part number 48163. Definitely a different board from the one shown on the manual on hifiengine for 4010S. I was assuming mine must be older because my rectifier board has no fuses, unlike the "normal" rectifier board. I figured extra fuses seem like something that would get added in a later version, not removed. But maybe that was a bad assumption!

If you could help me establish which model I have that would be great. Bonus points if you know where I can find a schematic that corresponds to my version. The schematic from hifiengine doesn't match very well at all.

Best Regards,

Danny

 

[rojoknox]

Greetings from RojoLand!

The serial number on the AR-40S record amplifier is not necessarily that of the complete machine. The fact that you have the later AR-40S instead of the older RA-40S (clever naming, huh?) means you definitely have a later specimen. The machine serial number will be on a tag on the fiberboard back of the deck. Too bad if yours is missing; rats!

As for that solenoid: Rechecking the A-4010GSL service manual confirms that part number 50616300, indexed "2-17" on the Above Main Chassis-1 drawing and described simply as "Solenoid", is indeed the pinch-roller solenoid. It so happens that the same part number, indexed "3-19" on the Above Main Chassis-2 drawing and described as "Solenoid, Brake", is used for the brakes. It's the very same part!

I don't find part number 48163 in either the "14459 and later" A-4010S manual or the A-4010GSL manual. Bear in mind that there are several schematics for this model, which was Teac's biggest seller (over 200,000 units in several years of production). It's also not out of the realm of possibility that yours is a "mutt" deck with parts from various donors. (Unless you purchased the deck new, or know for sure its history, how can we be certain?) Or perhaps the head cover was replaced with one from an older machine. The schematic that includes the AR-40S can be found on HiFi Engine in the owner's manual (yes, OWNER'S manual) there. Unfortunately, it is JUST the schematic, no other service data. For that you should acquire the A-4010GSL manual which is probably the closest.

Does your machine's capstan motor run at all times when the shutoff arm is lifted, or only when Play or Fast mode is engaged? Older ones (like mine, S/N 48104) run only in Play or Fast. You thread up the tape, press Play, the pinch roller engages and THEN the motor starts; if the tape is somewhere in the middle, the audio comes up with a wow. If you hit Reverse Play, the deck rapidly slows to a stop, then reverses direction (again with a wow). Newer machines have extra circuitry to eliminate that nonsense; when you hit Reverse, the deck pauses for a second or so, then snaps into Reverse Play. All newer Teacs work that way.

One other thing to note with any A-4010S: Beware of the gray tubular Suzuki 0.1 µF 400 V "oil capacitors" that you may see mounted on solenoids and switches (there are some behind the tape control buttons, and possibly one on the power supply board). Those are known time bombs! They have a nasty habit of failing short-circuited, getting hot and going Pop-BANG!—spewing their guts all over the place (and sometimes taking other components out in the bargain) and stinking up the joint. I speak from experience here! All those Suzuki-bombs must be replaced—yesterday! Inexpensive 0.1 µF 630 V tubular yellow film capacitors (available online at Sal's Capacitor Corner, Radio Daze, Just Radios, Antique Electronic Supply and elsewhere) are perfect for replacement. (No audiophool-types needed for that job!) The other electrolytic capacitors on the power supply as well as the motor-run capacitors should also be replaced.

Take care,
—
J. E. Knox "The Victor Freak"
Current caretaker of Teac A-4010S S/N 48104 (and 12 other reel-to-reel machines)

 

[DannyE]

Greetings!

Before I forget, my unit had a small cork gasket/seal on the front of the flywheel that disintegrated when I opened up the unit. Are those available anywhere? I've seen rubber gaskets on other Teac machines ... if I buy an assortment of rubber gaskets from Amazon, would that work to replace the cork one?

To answer your question about the capstan motor, it runs all the time when the shutoff arm is lifted. So I take it this is more evidence that it's a later machine?

Thanks for the warning about the Suzuki caps. I had seen that in some of your other posts but was trying to bury my head in the sand, as my deck is littered with those. There must be at least 15-20 of them. Oh well, guess I'll replace as many of them as I have the patience for.

Regarding the provenance of my deck, I bought it from a guy who himself knew nothing about it and had bought it as part of a package deal, no power cord, untested so who knows what kind of life it has lead. It may not be the original rectifier board for all I know, though it looked very original ... none of the clear plastic "wire ties" had been removed. And I've seen that same board on the Bay being sold as both an A-4010S board and as an A-4010SL board. Here is an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/324688799175?hash=item4b98f5e5c7:g:hrMAAOSwTWZg07D~

Take Care,

Danny

 

[rojoknox]

Greetings from RojoLand!

You could perhaps make another cork gasket using thin sheet cork. I'm not familiar enough with that part to suggest whether rubber could substitute, but it seems possible.

Yes, you definitely have a later machine with the improved control circuitry using a "delay relay." That schemo is in the owner's manual on HiFi Engine (along with the AR-40S schemo).

It's a PITA, but you will really need to change out ALL of those lousy Suzuki-bombs. Leave just one in place and you can count on it blowing up when you least expect it. Been there!

As for that power-supply board on the Dock-o'-the-'Bay: I couldn't find its part number 48163 in any of the A-4000/A-4010/A-4010S/etc. manuals at hand, but from the look of it I'd say it's from a mid-run A-4010S. It doesn't look like the PS board in my rig, which is narrow and mounted at the upper right of the deck chassis (to the left when looking at the back). The two 'lytics are 470 µF which is close to the 500 µF spec'd in the owner's-manual schematic. That board would require a recap in any event, especially so since it has a Suzuki-bomb!

Take care,
—
J. E. Knox "The Victor Freak"

 

[DannyE]

Hi JE,

FYI, that Solenoid did the trick ... my 4010A is now fully operational! At first I thought it could play but not record because the sound level was SUPER low on my first test recording, yet it sounded fine on a couple of pre-recorded tapes. Long story short, I had tried the recording testbon an ancient tape that came with the tape deck. I tried again using another tape and it sounds fine. I guess the first tape I tried was just trash.

I did order the replacements for the Suzuki Caps, but they haven't arrived yet.

Here's a picture ... it cleaned up pretty nice (originally it was very brown and dingy!)

Thanks again,

Danny