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Looking recommendations for a sub woofer driver

Onebean

Onebean

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I'm building the SR-71 Zaph design (http://www.zaphaudio.com/SR71.html) and plan to add a sub. I'm looking for recommendations for a 2 channel Hi-Fi system sub driver for all types of music (no movies or gaming). I would prefer the box not be huge, maybe limiting the size to about 8 cubic feet. Ported or sealed, which ever one sounds the best for music. I'm hoping to blend this sub into the SR-71's with a MiniDSP plate amp (https://www.minidsp.com/products/plate-amplifiers/pwr-ice125). With the limited research I've done, I think I can let the SR-71's go full range, and use the MiniDSP plate amp and Room EQ Wizard, to blend the sub. This is all theory at the moment, and I'm open to your comments and suggestions. Thanks for the help.

Onebean
 
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Well...I would look at building a pair of smaller subs to smooth out in-room response. The Infinity 1262w is pretty popular for budget-friendly builds. Check out AVS Forum to see what the subwoofer nuts are building.
 
What is your budget? Those are nice sounding speakers you're building so I would want to match with nice sounding subs as well. I would do two subs at a minimum. You could (on the cheaper side) purchase two Dayton reference 12" subs in the 8 ohm version and wire the pair to a 4 ohm load to your plate amp. That'll save you money on only having to purchase one amp but still be able to have two subs to even out room frequency response. If those are the HO versions of the sub then I'd build a a pair of small ported cabinets, around 2-2.5 cubic feet each tuned to 27hz and you'll be golden.

Dan
 
OK--I'll put on my Nomex fireproof suit and go ahead and post this "blasphemy"--JL Audio car sub drivers--there I said it--now I'm hiding under my desk. They make a wide range of products suitable for different cabinet volumes, both sealed and ported, and are not that brutally expensive. I have built cabinets with them, and used them as direct drop-in replacements for existing cabinets with failed drivers. They are actually pretty damn good--most people dismiss them because the only time they have heard them is in the trunk of a Honda Civic with a "fart can" muffler "thumping" 4 blocks down the street--really, they're not that bad, and that's not all they can do. Flame On!!!
 
I'll look into the JL Audio line, I remember the brand from way back in my car audio days.

Dan, As far as budget goes, I would like to stay under $500 for speakers and amp, not including the wood for the cabinet. I'll build and finish the cabinets, so there won't be any additional labor cost for that. I like the thought of 2 subs to even out the response. I've been looking at the Dayton subs. Can I power 2 subs with one plate amp, and not have phasing issues if they are placed on opposite walls or corners?

I should have mentioned this in my original post, but my room is small. I'm working with a room size of approximately 12' x 12'.

Thanks for all the ideas so far.

Onebean
 
Why not just buy or build two 10" powered subs and you won't need a separate plate amp.
 
Right now you can get two powered Dayton 1200's for under $400--YES--I did say powered subs--open the boxes and hook them up and you are DONE, other than dialing them in to your preference.
 
Two Dayton Sub1200's may be over kill for a 12' x 12' room. That's why I suggested two 10"s. The current price for a Dayton Sub1000 is $119 with free shipping.
 
How do I chain them together? Use an RCA Y adapter cable? I assume they use a lower grade driver and amp to keep the price that low (with free shipping). If I build my own, with their better drivers, and more wattage plate amps, will the extra cost (over double) yield double the performance? I like the idea of plug and play along with affordability. Typically I think I have to build everything to get the price to performance ratio my pocketbook requires.

The rest of my system will be Technics SL1200 with KAB mods, Marantz SACD player, to be determined DAC for the Marantz and also hi rez computer audio, Zaph SR-71 speakers, and Yamaha CR-1020 or Pioneer SX-1250.

I say this because I want all my components to be of reasonably equal performance, nothing notably "the weak link" or "overkill".

Onebean
 
Multiple subs work quite well when run off a Y cable. If you don't like the Parts Express subs you have thirty days to return them. My mention of "overkill" refers to the size of the cone versus the size of the room.
 
Hi,

If you looking to use the SR-71 fullrange it will easily get down to the two
main modes of your room which are at 46Hz. If your going to try to blend
in a sub below that point, the number of subs or placement hardly matters.

A LAB12 is a 100L (4cuft) box tuned to 22Hz in a corner is
an idea, though there are loads of other possible options.

You really should be looking at high passing the SR-71 to avoid
the inevitable 46Hz "room boom" peak *, and bringing in the sub
as originally planned, low down below the room modes.

rgds, sreten.

* This will also prevent any bass overload below the port frequency.
 
Sreten, thank you for the response. I don't understand the room modes you mention, it's over my head currently. Where would you recommend starting on the cross over point, if I high pass the SR-71's? Sounds like I should look into a MiniDSP along with multiple 10" subs, to be able to have full control over the cross over point. Can you point me to information explaining room modes in regular guy terms? Thank you.

Onebean
 
The Yamaha has an EQ loop (pre-amp out and main in) and I would look at look at using a miniDSP (2x4) as a subwoofer crossover (80 Hz?) in the EQ loop: high-pass signal to the SR-71 and low pass (stereo) signal to an external stereo amp to drive a pair of subwoofers. With the right mic and software (REW?) you can generate a house curve to smooth out the in-room subwoofer response. The EQ loop and miniDSP make this a slam-dunk once you read up on it and then follow through with some testing and tweaking.

Information on room modes....probably more than you wanted...
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=48286
 
That's exactly what I was thinking. I have a big Crown comtec amp I could use for the subs, and with the MiniDSP I don't need all those fancy sub controls plate amps come with. I like where this is going.
 
Now you have to pick a maximum enclosure size and budget (assumes power is not a limiting factor). Then work backwards to pick your drivers.
 
Since you are a DIY guy I'd highly recommend the bucket subs. You can build two and with the plate amp not exceed $300. These are even better than the excellent Dayton knock down kits at PE. The only modification I made was adding a plywood mounting ring under the plastic baffle so the woofers can be screwed down rather than glued down. If you decide to go this route don't hesitate to PM me for questions.

If you don't need the plate amp you're looking at spending less than $200. The inventor drives his with a Crown amp which is an even better choice than the plate amp.

http://www.transcendentsound.com/Subwoofer.html

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