There is an error in your sketch, the white wire from AC line to right speaker fuse, see red cross.
If this is true then you would be sending mains AC to the speaker fuse and then onto the speakers.
That white wire should be going to the power switch. Try the following,
- unit unplugged from mains
- L-100 power switch set to ON
- Measure resistance between green crosses, ie, Unswitched socket, white wire and
Switched socket black wire from power switch, ideally less than 1 ohm, ok if a few ohms.
- Set L-100 power switch to OFF
- Repeat resistance measurements between green crosses, expect OL. Reading will ramp up from
a small value to kohms and beyond and the MM current charges up cap (green)
For my own thinking, I'm calling the black wire from the AC cable the Neutral and the white wire
the Active. Yeah I know you guys continue to use non-polarized AC plug in some places.
So the white wire/Active is switched
And the Black neutral goes to the fuse (as per schematic)
The broken black wire should connect to the Neutral black wire at either the switched or unswitched
sockets, see blue crosses. I've shown a blue line where I think it should be connected.
The Black wire "to transformer input" looks wrong.
The transformer inputs are the
- Active, ie, white wire to power switch, other side of power switch to transformer input
- Neutral, blue wire other side of fuse.
The wiring does not conform to any standard, looks like a hatchet job. The Black wire to power
switch is bad as is the use of white wires "everywhere"
The speaker fuses also look like a mess, the wires should go to the speaker selector switch not
power switch. Try the following,
- L-100 powered off/unplugged
- select speaker System A and B (if possible to do both)
- measure resistance between left speaker fuse (yellow cross) and left speaker connector/post
either system A or B, ideally zero ohms, ok if less than 5ohms.
- repeat for right speaker fuse (purple cross) and right speaker post