I have a customer I repaired this amplifier for twice. Both times it went into protection and the heatsink got very hot.
In 2016, I replaced the left channel amplifier board as an assembly. At that time the whole assembly was only $220
16 months ago, the same symptoms appeared on the right channel which was also replaced as an assembly. Price: $280
Now the customer tells me the fuse blows instantly upon power up.
Accompanied by a snapping noise and burnt electronic smell.
I brought it up on a Variac, at about 70 volts, I can hear a relay kick in, I assume this is the speaker proaction relay.
no movement on the current meter.
At about 85 volts I can hear another relay clicking, and the current meter jumps to the clicking.
I disconnected both power boards, these are not the source of the excessive current draw.
I can't find any burned components.
The main power supply for the amplifier output board rails looks deceptively simple. A bridge rectifier and two caps.
The bridge rectifier measures good on a DVM on diode mode.
Could the big caps have gone bad?
There is a second power board called the back up power supply board.
The diodes and caps are very small, can't be more than 24 volts at 2-3 amps.
I wouldn't think this could take out a 6.3A slow-blow fuse.
Has any tech out there encountered this problem to help me "cut the cards"?
In 2016, I replaced the left channel amplifier board as an assembly. At that time the whole assembly was only $220
16 months ago, the same symptoms appeared on the right channel which was also replaced as an assembly. Price: $280
Now the customer tells me the fuse blows instantly upon power up.
Accompanied by a snapping noise and burnt electronic smell.
I brought it up on a Variac, at about 70 volts, I can hear a relay kick in, I assume this is the speaker proaction relay.
no movement on the current meter.
At about 85 volts I can hear another relay clicking, and the current meter jumps to the clicking.
I disconnected both power boards, these are not the source of the excessive current draw.
I can't find any burned components.
The main power supply for the amplifier output board rails looks deceptively simple. A bridge rectifier and two caps.
The bridge rectifier measures good on a DVM on diode mode.
Could the big caps have gone bad?
There is a second power board called the back up power supply board.
The diodes and caps are very small, can't be more than 24 volts at 2-3 amps.
I wouldn't think this could take out a 6.3A slow-blow fuse.
Has any tech out there encountered this problem to help me "cut the cards"?