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Magic marker station mark removal?

Sensel

Sensel

New Member
SX-850 that is pretty clean except…
You've seen it before. It is on the grey bar under the channels in front of the glass. 3 or so black Sharpie marks to tell the owner where to tune for those stations. :(
Anyone get them off cleanly? The trick I know of is to write/mark with an erasable marker over the old permanent marker. Then, erase and both magically come off. :)
But, the surface the permanent mark is on must be smooth for that trick to work perfectly. Like a white board. ;)
Plus, not 20-40 year old marker… and that bar is not so smooth. It could just smear, making it far worse. :eek:
Any proven magic market removal options on that part?
 
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mr clean magic eraser (or the way cheaper dollar general brand) and a little water.

dont scrub.

dont use it on lexan, plexi or otherwise polymer coated glass - it will haze it with fine scratches
 
Methyl ethyl ketone solvent and cotton swabs should lift the marker. Keep the solvent off all other surfaces by masking. It may require a few applications to thin the ink and swab it off.

If you cannot find a small supply of MEK, use a clear (not purple dyed) PVC pipe cleaning solvent. That contains MEK and acetate.
 
Before using a Magic Eraser, try a white draftsman's eraser and a little rubbing alcohol. The little soft white ones about the same size as the Pink Pearl you used in elementary school, but as made by Staedtler-Mars or Pentel. Used to have to do this on plastic all the time as installers would write addresses on field devices in Sharpie and then return them for warranty if they didn't work, and corporate refused to give credit even though this had been industry standard for ages :/
 
N8Nagel said:
Before using a Magic Eraser, try a white draftsman's eraser and a little rubbing alcohol. The little soft white ones about the same size as the Pink Pearl you used in elementary school, but as made by Staedtler-Mars or Pentel. Used to have to do this on plastic all the time as installers would write addresses on field devices in Sharpie and then return them for warranty if they didn't work, and corporate refused to give credit even though this had been industry standard for ages :/
Click to expand...
Staedtler-Mars calls theirs 'plastic', but some other companies call them 'vinyl' erasers. Go easy with them, because they can heat up, if used aggressively, and cause damage to a surface, by micro[polishing it.
 
Be careful because the metal surface is brushed metal with a clear coat over it that you don't want to mar.
IMHO the SX-850 is the sweet spot (cost/performance/build quality) in the Pioneer line.
 
Eucalyptus oil works well for removing markers. This should be gentle on anodised surface but prob still best to try on rear or bottom of faceplate first.
 
Start with the most non-invasive rather than reaching for the nuclear option right off the bat:

1. WD-40
2. Alcohol
3. Acetone
4. Light-duty rubbing compound
5. ?
 
Watthour said:
Methyl ethyl ketone solvent and cotton swabs should lift the marker. Keep the solvent off all other surfaces by masking. It may require a few applications to thin the ink and swab it off.

If you cannot find a small supply of MEK, use a clear (not purple dyed) PVC pipe cleaning solvent. That contains MEK and acetate.
Click to expand...
MEK is the activator for body putty - you can get little tubes at walmart. but, its wicked stuff and I would be hesitant to breath its fumes especially when performing an action that makes it more aromatic...

you all are taking 2 paths: chemical or abrasive, without bothering to consider the science behind each. therefore caveat emptor.

since the faceplate IS brushed aluminum if you find a chemical that will re-agent the marker, you run the greatest risk of pushing the concoction into the semi porous surface created, being 'brushed aluminum' and all that. if the discoloration that can occur is acceptable over the removal of the script - so be it.

therefore if you must consider an abrasive, consider one that is the LEAST abrasive and works using only polymers and water as a cutting lubricant.

(there are further prohibitions against using alcohols and then cleaning wipes due to the haze from a fast forming Al-oxide that must be buffed out)
 
i would first try spit on a finger tip to get a feel for the next move .. my finger tips are rather abrasive by the way . maybe yours arent but it may help with your next move .
 
[QUOTE="petehall347, post: 10176968, member: 121225"]i would first try spit on a finger tip to get a feel for the next move .. my finger tips are rather abrasive by the way . maybe yours arent but it may help with your next move .[/QUOTE]

Momma's method! :D
 
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