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Marantz 18 & 19 Receiver Restorations

Prices are going up. The overseas Asian collectors are now hip to the Model 18. There are an increasing number of Asian YouTube videos about it. I suspect a lot of the 18s for sale on ebay are now going to Japan and Vietnam.


The early production 18s with the red power switches were the switches reportedly prone to failure. I wonder if Marantz selected an under spec power switch or if the supplier initially made defective ones.

The revised switch was black and was incorporated starting on the mid production 18s — maybe in the 3000 serial range? Perhaps this same revised black power switch was later used in the model 19?

Has anyone compared the red and black power switches to see what revision was made?

If you look at the McIntosh receivers of the late 1960s like the 1500 and 1700, they incorporated the power switch into the volume control along with a loudness circuit.

I think Marantz chose the better approach on the 18 and 19 using a discrete power switch and discrete volume control with no loudness tap. The discreet components Marantz used also makes serviceability easier decades later — it’s easier now to find discrete replacement controls vs a finding a custom multifunction McIntosh style control of loudness, power and loudness tap.

Has anyone determined why the HV transformer goes open on some of the 18s — and why other 18s chug along 50 years with no transformer problems whatsoever? For example, is the transformer failure caused by a defective winding, bad design, or another component—like the 500V cap— failing?
 
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I found the lettering on the 18 dial glass to be robust and will withstand cleaning. Maybe the paint formulation used on the glass was changed during production run because others have reported the lettering to be fragile. Try using the “hot breath” technique with microfiber cloth on the hidden paint registration marks before cleaning the rest of the dial.
 
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The Eighteen’s sensitivity is rated at a mediocre 2.8 uV. The tuner section sounds good with a strong signal but struggles with more distant rimshot stations. The 10B for comparison was rated at a more sensitive 2 uV. The MAC receivers of the era were rated better than the 18 with a sensitivity of 2.5 uV. That’s probably why they made the Model 19 more sensitive.
 
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Some of the later 18s have a smooth matte black dial backsplash. Others (most) seem to have a textured black paint dial backsplash. I have no idea why...
 
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Since the two units are so similar and I have at least a couple of each, I wanted to start a new thread to go through my progress in bringing them back to original specification (and maybe even better). I'd like for this to one day be the definitive guide for one or both of these receivers.

Summary
I'm a past member here who has decided to start a new account given my last account was my full name and the internet has changed. I think the last time I spent a lot of time posting here was 2014. Since then, my collection of gear has narrowed in focus and I'm looking to learn more about electronics by recapping a couple of boards I have in parts units and going from there with actual functional units. When I think about my restorations, I do my best to look through the lens of the team who designed the 18 and chose the components for it since I simply don't see any bit of cost-cutting in the 18, but there are some obvious cuts in the 19. If the 18 were built today with the same type of components of the original but being up to today's standard, what parts would be used? Since nearly all of the parts in the 18 are of the same or better quality than the 19, I will apply the same parts used in the 18 to the 19 to the extent I can. I've become pretty obsessed with both models and hope this thread helps you and helps me get all of my ideas out there.

Test Equipment
Using the Marantz 19 service manual as guide, I purchased/already own the following:
  • HP 8903B Audio Analyzer
  • HP 3456A Digital Voltmeter (because why not? also have Fluke 117)
  • HP 130BR Oscilloscope
  • HP 54111D Oscilloscope
  • Staco Variac
  • WD-766A Digital Wattmeter
  • 8 & 16-ohm dummy loads
  • various probes and cables
Please recommend any equipment you think I may be missing along with what that piece of gear will help me do. I like HP/Agilent gear.

Marantz 18 vs Marantz 19
I've listened to and examined both the 18 and 19 along with studied both and can summarize the pros and cons of each fairly confidently:

Marantz 18
Pros:
  • Build quality exceeds the 19. The faceplate is cast iron. Top and bottoms covers are heavier. Glass dial. Better workmanship. No flimsy power supply board.
  • Higher quality parts overall.
  • Easier to keep the original look.
  • Slightly less expensive than the 19.
Cons:
  • HF winding in the transformer is prone to failure rendering the scope useless.
  • Power supply and scope are more difficult to access and work on.
  • To most, design is probably more dated than 19.
  • Less powerful than the 19 (but we'll see if that holds post restore).
  • Dial lettering falls off.
  • Most heat sinks are faded.
  • Early units had a host of issues including power switch failures.
  • Tuner has weak amplification limiting station availability.
Marantz 19
Pros:
  • Higher power (50 vs 40 watts/channel @ 8 ohms)
  • Design sets the stage for all of the following classic receivers from the 1970s. Beautiful.
  • Anodizing & paint quality seems to be better than 18.
  • Some boards are easier to access and service.
  • Some transistors have sockets where they can simply be pulled out and reinserted.
  • Service manual is amazing.
  • Transformer seems less prone to failures.
Cons:
  • Cheaper parts were used and some cost cutting is apparent.
  • Some signs of poor workmanship in terms of soldering.
  • Impossible to recap and keep original looking unless restuffing caps.
  • Confines of power supply board & cover limits component choices.
  • Power supply board is prone to burn marks and is very brittle.
  • Some design choices were clearly made to make it easier to assemble the unit, but not for improved sound.
  • The black badge.
Current Progress
So far, I've cleaned/restored a tone board from one of the model 18s and have rebuilt a power supply on one of the 19s I have. Below, I'll summarize my findings with each board and include any questions I might have. Then I'll update the section with the answers as I receive them.

Tone Board
Even 53 years later, there are film caps available that are direct, drop in replacements for the ten you'll see I've replaced. No lead bending required. In addition, I replaced the four 100uf/mfd - 6vdc electrolytic capacitors. While those electrolytic caps tested fine, they all had levels of visible leakage/crustiness. I wanted to keep the original size & appearance so I replaced them with four tantalum capacitors. Three questions on this board:
  • Is there any reason to replace the 6800pf or the 220pf polystyrene capacitors? These are the small silver caps.
  • For the eight transistors, there are two part numbers (four of each):
    • 34-1008: I see NTE234 was once a sub according to info I found for the 19, but this transistor doesn't seem to be available. Looks like a 2N5401 works, but is there a better substitute?
    • 34-1010: 2N4401, 2N5769, 2N3904? Any others that are better?
  • Anything else I should do while I have these out?
Before and after so far:

i-DkgJJRK-L.jpg


Next, I'll work on the phono board.
​
I notice there is no test equipment for tuner alignment in your list.
 
I notice there is no test equipment for tuner alignment in your list.

Marantz Model 10, Model 10B, Model 20, Model 20B, Model 18, and Model 19 are not alignable by normal technicians. They are not meant to be aligned by anyone but the factory. Opto-Couplers aka LDR tend to be the main issues with them.
 
Marantz Model 10, Model 10B, Model 20, Model 20B, Model 18, and Model 19 are not alignable by normal technicians. They are not meant to be aligned by anyone but the factory. Opto-Couplers aka LDR tend to be the main issues with them.
Interesting, thanks for posting!
 
I also have a 18 that I bought off of Ebay many years ago. It has a scope driver problem, and it is awaiting repair. Some people think they are ugly, but I kind of like it, it is unique.
 
I'm back to these, finally. I own over ten Model 18s and I estimate at least 1/3 of them have bad windings in the transformer for the scope. None will leave my possession until the boards are rebuilt and the main supply capacitor for the scope is replaced. I've made some updates to the first post on this thread. I have a Marantz 18 open now on the bench.
 
I'm back to these, finally. I own over ten Model 18s and I estimate at least 1/3 of them have bad windings in the transformer for the scope. None will leave my possession until the boards are rebuilt and the main supply capacitor for the scope is replaced. I've made some updates to the first post on this thread. I have a Marantz 18 open now on the bench.
Interesting my 19 scope stopped working mid restoration but now I’m much better at tracking down voltages and troubleshooting. I think I recall getting good hv from the pt.
 
Prices are going up. The overseas Asian collectors are now hip to the Model 18. There are an increasing number of Asian YouTube videos about it. I suspect a lot of the 18s for sale on ebay are now going to Japan and Vietnam.


The early production 18s with the red power switches were the switches reportedly prone to failure. I wonder if Marantz selected an under spec power switch or if the supplier initially made defective ones.

The revised switch was black and was incorporated starting on the mid production 18s — maybe in the 3000 serial range? Perhaps this same revised black power switch was later used in the model 19?

Has anyone compared the red and black power switches to see what revision was made?

If you look at the McIntosh receivers of the late 1960s like the 1500 and 1700, they incorporated the power switch into the volume control along with a loudness circuit.

I think Marantz chose the better approach on the 18 and 19 using a discrete power switch and discrete volume control with no loudness tap. The discreet components Marantz used also makes serviceability easier decades later — it’s easier now to find discrete replacement controls vs a finding a custom multifunction McIntosh style control of loudness, power and loudness tap.

Has anyone determined why the HV transformer goes open on some of the 18s — and why other 18s chug along 50 years with no transformer problems whatsoever? For example, is the transformer failure caused by a defective winding, bad design, or another component—like the 500V cap— failing?

I have a broken red switch I'll pry open to see what the inside looks like. Probably won't do that with a black one, but we'll see.

I am guessing that the windings fail due to the high voltage cap becoming leaky or perhaps the ceramic caps on the board. Additionally, while we're talking about the board, the 10K resistors are deposited carbon types. Not good. There are actually a lot of deposited carbon resistors throughout the 18 in general.
 
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I restored a model 19 that the scope did not work. the filiment winding was open on thetransformer.
 
I restored a model 19 that the scope did not work. the filiment winding was open on thetransformer.

Much less common on the 19 than the 18, but the windings seem to be open on at least half of my 18s so none of them get powered on until the power supply and scope boards are restored.
 
Thanks. Getting close to being done with my recap and restoration. I made a huge error in that the wires for the power amp board were tight and some broke off. Last night I re soldered them with a short extension so it doesn’t happen again. Next will do voltage testing. I have found that I can’t get reliable readings at 12v AC with this amp so I’ve been using 60v AC with a variac and expecting half the value of the schematic. Also pulled the scope tube to prevent shock.
 
My scope is working I found. Just had it adjusted wrong on the front when testing before and also recapped the smaller electrolytic caps on the scope board.

wish I could get these driver board load line protection adjustments right! My distortion keeps swaying up and down from 0.5 to 0.07 when performing the test. I did it hastily so will be more careful when I get back to the bench. If anyone else performed this per the service manual lemme know. Thanks.
 

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