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Marantz 2220B quick questions

Richs_Trains

Well-Known Member
Hello, I tried to recap a 2220b and found that the power amp foils were just terrible. I went ahead and recapped the board and when I re-installed it I could not get it to bias correctly. I tried to re-flow the joints I made and still had no luck. I purchased a used 2220b amp board with the heat sink and all transistors present (supposed to test good). My question ... what is the best way to remove and replace the power amp board. I no longer have a wire wrap tool ( I had one when I worked for the phone company, but it is long gone), is it better to un-wrap / un-solder the connections and then re-solder them back, or un-solder the actual plugs from the board and leave the wire wraps in place? I have recapped the new board and am ready to go when y'all chime in. As always, thank you for all the help and info on the site, well worth being a subscriber!
 
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Point blank I'm no expert, but there are guys here that can and will definitely help you. For what it is worth I just recapped a 2220b and I would suggest labeling the wires THEN desolder the pins from the board, leave the wraps in place. Transfer them to the new board and then verify that the transplant was successful.
 
I am leaning that way because it will look better and more original, just never pulled the pins before. We'll see if there is any other suggestions, I am waiting on one part that should be here Monday.. Thanks Rich
 
Best way to keep track of wires is to take pictures before you start, and as for removing the wires I'd recommend un soldering them, if you try to unwrap them they'll probably just break.
 
Desoldering the pins is the best way. Just make sure they're clean before trying to push them into the new board or any board. Theyre square so try to put it in the hole
appropriately also make sure the solder pad on the foil side is clean and it should be smooth as pie.
 
Thanks, I have pulled the pins from both boards and am awaiting the last parts. It is probably going to be a little tight soldering them back, would you do it from the top with the heat sink pulled back or from the bottom?
 
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