Marantz 2220B - Recap?

[Dig22]

Hi,
My recently acquired Marantz 2220B works perfect, but shows no signs of ever being serviced. Should I recap it? I have all the parts, I've been studying, but... if it's not broken, should I fix it?

I've attached a few photos and wondering if someone might help me identify some of the boards. I have a photocopied service manual and can't tell from photos. Also, on chassis bottom, there's a small board (bottom L) with no reference in manual that I can find. Please see attached photos.

Thank you!

 

[milo63]

I've recapped a bunch of stuff, sometimes I hear a difference and sometimes not. The 2220B was one of the HUGE improvements in sound quality.
Do it...with AK guidance.

 

[Bruno Primas]

If you feel confident enough in your technical skills, do it. Make sure you have or build a dim-bulb tester. Check your work and test the unit as you go. It's easier to rebuild a working unit than one that has failed.

 

[dankik]

One way to identify the board is to look at the component numbers printed on the board (i.e. P800 will have R801, etc., then look up the board in the SM and identify its name and parts list. Sometimes the configuration is updated based on SN, which may be the case of your extra board. Look for addendums to the SM online.

 

[dankik]

Maybe this will help (from the SM).

 

[rBuckner]

One of the nicest sounding of ALL Marantz receivers IMHO.

 

[runningdog]

Same as what Randy says, the 2220B rocks. And it is one of the easiest models of vintage Marantz to work on, ideal for a first time rebuild.

 

[JJCalvillo]

You could get yourself a Peak cap tester that works most of the time on in-circuit caps and just replace what's out of spec. or heading in that direction.

Two ways of looking at it:
A) Caps are all old and if not bad now, may be soon = wholesale recap.
B) Traces are old/delicate and you don't want to lift any and have to repair, especially on good caps that are working fine = test and replace the ones that need to be. It may be a hallucination, but it seems like Marantz boards/traces are sturdier.

When I do B, I replace anything out by 12 or 15%+.

Just did a friend's 9090 and was amazed that even the 0.47uf caps on the driver board tested at 0.48 & 0.50uf and low ESR. Every cap on the board was within 5%. There were other boards that needed half the caps replaced, but the driver board was a miracle.