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Marantz 2230 Blowing Fuse Immediately on Power Up

ok, disconnected the + and - leads... here is what I get on my DMM, the beep is gone.
 

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There's more to it than that, this should help you:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqkT6hF0O3E

It has to be completely out of circuit, the 2 orange wire should be desoldered as well. There's a neg, pos and the 2 middle are for ac feed from the transformer, the rectifier is used to convert AC to DC.
 
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excellent video. I disconnected all leads and did all the tests shown in the video. Based on this test the bridge rectifier is good. Any idea where I should check next. I cannot thank you enough for all your help.

Thanks!
 
So- you have two wires going into the transformer , the fuse sits in between them, those are your primaries. There are 7 wires coming out according to the diagram. 2 are for lights, 2 feed that rectifier the others probably feed the amp board, the diagram is split in two and i'm going to bed so i'm not gonna figure that out. Anyways, desolder all the wires coming out of the secondary and try firing it up on the dim bulb. If it passes then the transformer is ok, remember the wires can't be touching anything or themselves! Reconnect the lights then try it, then the rectifier, then the amp. You'll eventually figure out what is causing the issue.
 
Lucky me, I've never come across a bad bridge rectifier! And yes it's definitely a fast blow fuse. It's almost always shorted output transistors. The outputs can be tested in place to see if they are shorted but it's harder. There's just two screws per and gently pry them out, it's so much easier. Only do one at a time to avoid putting them back in wrong.
 
bktheking,

Dim bulb tester built and ready to start testing... Where do we go first.

Thanks!
 

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bktheking,

Attached a picture, just want to be clear I understand which are secondaries and primaries. If I have these correctly identified, the 2 orange wires were attached to the bridge rectifier (which you stated were primaries). So, I only have 5 wires remaining as secondaries. 2 green, 2 yellow, and 1 black. Should I desolder these 5 wires and then do the dim bulb test to determine if Xfrm is good?
 

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The wires that lead directly from the AC input to the transformer are the primaries. I believe you have them correctly labeled in your photo, but when in doubt you can either trace them back to the other end, or consult the wiring diagram in the service manual.
You do have the service manual, right?
 
Yes, I do. Also have the schematic. Ok so tomorrow I will disconnect the secondaries plug in my dbt and cross my fingers. Will report back.

Thanks!
 
izman23 said:
bktheking,

Attached a picture, just want to be clear I understand which are secondaries and primaries. If I have these correctly identified, the 2 orange wires were attached to the bridge rectifier (which you stated were primaries). So, I only have 5 wires remaining as secondaries. 2 green, 2 yellow, and 1 black. Should I desolder these 5 wires and then do the dim bulb test to determine if Xfrm is good?
Click to expand...

According to the diagram 7 wires are coming out of the secondaries, the orange ones are part of that, the red and blue are primaries. 2 green should be lights, 2 yellow 1 black I believe is the amp, 2 orange to the rectifier.

Here an original manual if you so desire:

http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-electronics-Manuel-original-Marantz-2230-W0QQAdIdZ330985912
 
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Well....the usual test is from positive to negative to ac leads.

USUALLY, reading 001 or 002 indicates a dead short in just about any configuration. But one thing to be mindful of is stuff in the circuit can affect it. But a reading like that....looks like to me you've got two shorted diodes in the bridge.

JUST to be sure, disconnect the wires from the bridge and check it again....same readings...bridge is shorted.

On the DMM, most diodes shoe up around the .5 range on your meter if in proper polarity.....1.3 or higher if reversed.

But I'm willing to bet that bridge is bad.

Sent from my Samsung Intercept with Tapatalk
 
I I soldered all wires leading to the bridge rectifier and tested again using the test method previously suggested. Allege BR checked good. When I get home from work I'm going to disconnect all secondaries, put in fast blow fuse, connect DBT and test Xfrm.

BTW, In a strange way I'm glad I'm glad I had this problem cause I'm learning a lot. Thanks everyone!
 
It's quite possible that blown outputs are caused externally by bad speakers. Like ones with rubbing voice coils that intermittantly short out. If the outputs are gone what also needs done is to look (diode test wise) at the driver transistors soldered to the amp pc board. Now that's a bit more work but not inpossible.

Good luck and happy hunting!
 
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