Marantz 2230 recap parts list?
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Down load a manual. From there you are going to have to "add up" the caps. Generally you need caps of the value 1uf, 2.2,3.3,4.7,10,47,100, etc... values. If you get them in the 50v range you can't go too wrong. With exception of the power supply you may need100v.
But some should be audio grade. While most others don't matter much. But most important ask what series are best for what positions.
Like for the audio path I like Nichicon FW series in the 50v range
charles
But some should be audio grade. While most others don't matter much. But most important ask what series are best for what positions.
Like for the audio path I like Nichicon FW series in the 50v range
charles
All values in uF/WVDC, aluminum electrolytic w/radial leads unless stated otherwise:
Meter
1 33/10
Chassis
1 220/50 (axial leads)
1 4700/80 (chassis mount; increase to 6800-10000uF and bypass w/2uF polypropylene)
2 2200/63 (chassis mount; increase to 4700uF and bypass w/1uF polypropylene)
P150 AM Tuner
1 100/10
11 10/16
P300 MPX Stereo Decoding Amplifier
1 220/25
1 220/16
1 100/10
1 33/10
2 10/35
7 10/16
2 4.7/35
1 1/25
1 0.1/20
P400 Tone Amp
1 100/35
2 10/35
4 3.3/25
2 1/35
2 1/25
2 0.47/200 film
P500 FM Detector
1 100/16
3 10/16
1 4.7/35
1 1/50
P550 Muting Amp
1 10/16
1 4.7/35
P700 Phono
2 22/50 tantalum (replace with electrolytics)
1 100/50 (increase to 470/50)
4 0.47/200 (film -- late models 1/200 film)
P750 Power Amp (double all quantities for two boards)
1 100/50
2 47/50
1 22/35
1 10/35
1 0.47/25 (late models use 1/25)
P800 Power Supply
1 470/63
1 470/16
2 330/50
1 3.3/50
Meter
1 33/10
Chassis
1 220/50 (axial leads)
1 4700/80 (chassis mount; increase to 6800-10000uF and bypass w/2uF polypropylene)
2 2200/63 (chassis mount; increase to 4700uF and bypass w/1uF polypropylene)
P150 AM Tuner
1 100/10
11 10/16
P300 MPX Stereo Decoding Amplifier
1 220/25
1 220/16
1 100/10
1 33/10
2 10/35
7 10/16
2 4.7/35
1 1/25
1 0.1/20
P400 Tone Amp
1 100/35
2 10/35
4 3.3/25
2 1/35
2 1/25
2 0.47/200 film
P500 FM Detector
1 100/16
3 10/16
1 4.7/35
1 1/50
P550 Muting Amp
1 10/16
1 4.7/35
P700 Phono
2 22/50 tantalum (replace with electrolytics)
1 100/50 (increase to 470/50)
4 0.47/200 (film -- late models 1/200 film)
P750 Power Amp (double all quantities for two boards)
1 100/50
2 47/50
1 22/35
1 10/35
1 0.47/25 (late models use 1/25)
P800 Power Supply
1 470/63
1 470/16
2 330/50
1 3.3/50
Do what Avionic said, "open the unit and make a list of what caps are actually in the receiver". The manufacturer made changes to the list as the production of the receiver went on so the caps values will be different from what the service manual says.
Also, Marantz Service manuals are known to have mistakes.
Also, Marantz Service manuals are known to have mistakes.
caps come is "standard" values. So order a bunch of each. With the size of the larger voltage rated caps now being much smaller in size as compared to the originals, don't be afraid to up the voltage rating. So don't get too hung up on finding that lower rated cap. If the original is a 10v cap you can use a 25 or 50v cap in it's place if you need to.
Some basics: do one board at a time and test. WOW I can't stress that one!!!! I would start with the power supply boards, then amp, preamp, toner, meter, lights, etc... and tuner boards for last. However, when you do the tuner boards you may need to have the unit realigned.
Also I would recommend you remove the board to work on it. This way you have clear access to inspect and check other areas. More importantly you can double check all your solder joints and avoid mangling the tracings (been there!). I would also consider doing this under a mag lamp. And this one is golden rule in my book. BEFORE I even take the cap out I use a marker to indicate the negative leg. I can't tell you how many times I pulled a cap out and IMMEDIATELY lost the orientation. How are your soldering skills!!!! Do you know what soldering ribbon is?
Also consider what series or types are best for what positions. Again I prefer the Nichicon FW audio grade for those signal path positions. Power positions ask around. If you are going to do it, get the right parts. No they are not exotic boutique caps and yes they are cheap.
enjoy the project.
charles
Some basics: do one board at a time and test. WOW I can't stress that one!!!! I would start with the power supply boards, then amp, preamp, toner, meter, lights, etc... and tuner boards for last. However, when you do the tuner boards you may need to have the unit realigned.
Also I would recommend you remove the board to work on it. This way you have clear access to inspect and check other areas. More importantly you can double check all your solder joints and avoid mangling the tracings (been there!). I would also consider doing this under a mag lamp. And this one is golden rule in my book. BEFORE I even take the cap out I use a marker to indicate the negative leg. I can't tell you how many times I pulled a cap out and IMMEDIATELY lost the orientation. How are your soldering skills!!!! Do you know what soldering ribbon is?
Also consider what series or types are best for what positions. Again I prefer the Nichicon FW audio grade for those signal path positions. Power positions ask around. If you are going to do it, get the right parts. No they are not exotic boutique caps and yes they are cheap.
enjoy the project.
charles
And before you proceed any further, make note of the diode attached to the heat sink on each of the two power amplifier boards. BE VERY CAREFUL HANDLING THESE if you are removing or replacing the amp boards. The leads can be brittle on them, especially at the point where they enter/exit their casing.
If you are going to remove or otherwise disturb either of the amplifier boards, unscrew the clip holding the diode against the heat sink first, and avoid moving or bending the leads on it any more than absolutely necessary.
If you are going to remove or otherwise disturb either of the amplifier boards, unscrew the clip holding the diode against the heat sink first, and avoid moving or bending the leads on it any more than absolutely necessary.
ZeroG
Super Member
Two things which have saved my newbie butt more than once:
1. Take a sharpie and mark every cap on the top side that faces the front of the unit. (sometimes the pcb polarity markings are wrong, so this way you'll always know the correct orientation. Very similar to Airtime's excellent method)
2. Take LOTS of digital pics from every angle BEFORE you start work, using the best close-up setting on the cam. I often work on things in front of my computer, so having an enlarged photo on screen really helps.
1. Take a sharpie and mark every cap on the top side that faces the front of the unit. (sometimes the pcb polarity markings are wrong, so this way you'll always know the correct orientation. Very similar to Airtime's excellent method)
2. Take LOTS of digital pics from every angle BEFORE you start work, using the best close-up setting on the cam. I often work on things in front of my computer, so having an enlarged photo on screen really helps.
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