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Marantz 2252b Amplifier voltages weirdness

dave404

New Member
I've been trying to fix a friends 2252b that he got several years ago and I'm having a difficult time figuring out what I could have done to FUBAR it. Hoping the large brains here have an answer.
As some backgroud I'm not new to this. I've fixed several Marantz and Pioneers in the past but I'm not immune to stupid mistakes.

When I first tested the unit one channel was dead. One of the output transistors was shot. There wasn't any physical reason that I could see as to why that would happen: no burnt resistors or such which is what I've seen when that happens.
The other channel had clipping. Taking out the output transistors and checking them verified they were good and were put back in.
At the time, the voltages on the transistors were not correct, according to the schematic. I wish I had written them down but I didn't.

So at that time I was thinking ok.. I know the first channel is good, I'll start swapping transistors from good to bad to see if I can pin it down.
I started at the input and worked my way up through Q707-710. Here's where I made the mistake: I switched the two transistors putting Q710 in Q709 spot and Q708 in Q707 spot. No, I didn't have a DBT. Instant smoke on R737 and R739. Lesson learned.
And I also burned up transistors in the Q709 and Q707 spot.

I replaced the resistors and the transistors with MJE253G and MJE243G, which I believe I got from somewhere on the forum. I replaced all 4 in the interest of keeping everything as even as possible.

Here's where the problem comes in. I now have very strange voltages and I cannot pinpoint what the problem is. The voltages are on BOTH channels and are consistent. Vb Q701 and Q702 are correct as is Ve Q701 and Q702. Vc on them is a little high at -42.2v.

On Q705 and Q706, Vc is 4.8v, Vb is -42.2v and Ve is -42.5v. These should be -1.1v and around -40v.

Q716 and Q718 is Ve 3.7v, Vb approx 3.6 on both and Vc 3.7v. On Q715 Vb is 3.5v, Ve is 3.8v and Vc is 3.8v. For Q717 Ve an Vb is 0v and Vc is 3.8v.

Q707 and Q709 are Vc +42.5v and -42.5v respectively, Vb is 4.7v on both and Ve is 4.1v and 3.8v respectively. Q708 and Q710 have similar readings.

First question: was the replacement for Q707-710 correct? Any thoughts?
Second, I'm contemplating putting two good originals of the 707-710's back in and see what that does?
Or am I missing something obvious? I have poked around the board and have removed and out of circuit tested the blob diodes and they seem to be good.
Any help here would be great.
Cheers
 
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It looks like you have rail voltage at places it shouldn't be. That usually means a component failure - open or shorted - somewhere or a restoration problem like wrong polarity/pinout, etc or solder bridge/cold solder joint. Check all polarities and pinouts of the new transistors and caps and check solder side with magnification looking for cold joints or bridges. If all of that is good, you are going to have to somehow systematically check most of the components on the bad side. Check resistors, diodes and transistors in the vicinity of the burned resistors first. You may have to pull transistors to test them, and possibly lift one leg on resistors and diodes to get a valid reading. But somewhere in there is a bad component or component installation error.
 
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I haven't traced all of your voltage measurements (above), but started to lay them out on the schematic to better visualize the issue. I'm trying to figure out why your voltages are not (-)? You measured them correctly and didn't forget the (-) sign... yes?

Did you verify the power amp adjustment (below)? Your DC offset should be 0v, but you have 3.8v/3.7vdc.
If you adjust these voltages, your Q705 voltage will come down.
upload_2022-4-6_10-32-11.png
 
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Hi Steve and Dankik
I appreciate the responses. Thanks for reading the wall of text.

I will try to verify the polarity of my readings possibly tomorrow or Friday and report out what they are.

Steve, I was hoping that you had a magic wand that you could loan me and provide me some magic words to make the troubleshooting easier. I wasn't doing a restoration so I haven't replaced any caps. Only the transistors have been unsoldered. I will go back and verify the pinouts and my placement of them. I don't suppose the silkscreening on the amplifier board is incorrect in places that you know of?
Since the problem is in both channels can you possibly point to a section to begin, or is that impossible right now?

Dankik
I did try to adjust the DC offset using R731 and R732. The adjustments weren't large enough to make any difference. I'll verify the voltages when I'm back on the bench in a day or so.

Again, thanks so much for the responses and I'll get back with the readings and what I find out.

Cheers
 
Definitely have no magic wand. But the components I would start with when checking, knowing that R737 and R739 toasted, would be R743, transistors Q715 and Q717, and diodes Q727 and Q729. My prime suspects are R743 and Q715 at this point since base and emitter are not at 0V. Probably wrong, but at least a place to start.
 
Hi Steve
I got back to this last night and was verifying the voltages for Dankik and thought I discovered a potential problem with a discrepancy between the silkscreen on the amp board and what is published in the manual for Q715 Q716 Q717 and Q718. Turns out the silkscreen is correct and the manual is wrong. I'll post this in the manual mistakes.
I'm going to check around your recommendated components today and update later.
Dankik.. Yes I verified the voltage measurements last night.
Cheers
 
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