• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Marantz 2270 faceplate

jFF_Bulbo

jFF_Bulbo

Active Member
Hello AK'ers
I had a 2270 faceplate in bad condition. black paint stains, scratches, letters errased...
bOvISJ7.jpg

I am in restoration process, i polished it and now it is too brilliant
DBIkQmv.jpg

I need to apply the "brushed" finish previous to the anodized.

Can you help me? I don't know the correct tool, process or the way to do it.
Regards
 
Register to hide this ad
I have seen online where people set up a jig to move the metal back and forth in a straight line over sandpaper. They set up a wooden table top with a fixed “fence” made of 1 X 2. Put sandpaper face up, placed the metal face down on it, and slid it back and forth against the sandpaper while keeping the edge against the fence. I have not done this myself, but kept it in my back pocket for future use if needed. This would obviously require some trial and error with sandpaper grit and pressure on some scrap before trying it in the real deal. My biggest question is, how do you plan to get lettering back on it?
 
it wouldnt be the original look but that polished plate might look pretty cool the way it is. i would be tempted you try it out if it was mine but i have a bunch of the originals and might not think that way if i only had one receiver.
 
Steven Tate said:
I have seen online where people set up a jig to move the metal back and forth in a straight line over sandpaper. They set up a wooden table top with a fixed “fence” made of 1 X 2. Put sandpaper face up, placed the metal face down on it, and slid it back and forth against the sandpaper while keeping the edge against the fence. I have not done this myself, but kept it in my back pocket for future use if needed. This would obviously require some trial and error with sandpaper grit and pressure on some scrap before trying it in the real deal. My biggest question is, how do you plan to get lettering back on it?
Click to expand...
Hello. Thanks you!
I have the lettering, i know the process like "silk screen". I'll post a pic un a few hours.
Regards
 
Chrisxo55441 said:
it wouldnt be the original look but that polished plate might look pretty cool the way it is. i would be tempted you try it out if it was mine but i have a bunch of the originals and might not think that way if i only had one receiver.
Click to expand...
Hello.
This is how it looks like:
vC5yyAW.jpg


"T-1000 edition" Will be it's name
 
That's kind of cool looking actually! Makes me think of McIntosh chrome plated chassis. But, oh the fingerprints! You'd have to have a pair of cotton gloves always nearby. :biggrin:
 
rBuckner said:
That's kind of cool looking actually! Makes me think of McIntosh chrome plated chassis. But, oh the fingerprints! You'd have to have a pair of cotton gloves always nearby. :biggrin:
Click to expand...
Yes! It looks like a Mc! Also Jadis use this finish, as you Say, the polished aluminium is too easy to scratch and fingerprints are a pain in the back.
I like that look! But i have brushed it and cover with transparent veneer.
qgL87iR.jpg
 
Looks really good! I researched this because I have a 2230 “engraved faceplate” unit with a fairly beat up - and irreplaceable - faceplate. I want to refinish it, but lettering would be a problem. The lettering locations are there because they are engraved. But they are very shallow, and I just don’t know how to get epoxy ink (or somethng similar) into those letters where they will look right. I plan to experiment some day, but right now, it’s on the back burner.
 
would the shine on that go dull after a few months? my TD 147 platter is polished and it goes dull after a few months and i have to polish it. that could be problematic with lettering on it.
 
Chrisxo55441 said:
would the shine on that go dull after a few months? my TD 147 platter is polished and it goes dull after a few months and i have to polish it. that could be problematic with lettering on it.
Click to expand...

I agree.
Maybe you could clearcoat it after lettering it.

Bob
 
He said he covered it with a transparent veneer. Maybe that was a clear coat. It definitely would tarnish without it. I’m still anxious to see how the lettering turns out.
 
rBuckner said:
That's kind of cool looking actually! Makes me think of McIntosh chrome plated chassis. But, oh the fingerprints! You'd have to have a pair of cotton gloves always nearby. :biggrin:
Click to expand...
Yes! It looks like a Mc! Also Jadis use this finish, as you Say, the polished aluminium is too easy to scratch and fingerprints are a pain in the back.
I like that look! But i have brushed it and cover with transparent veneer.
qgL87iR.jpg

Steven Tate said:
He said he covered it with a transparent veneer. Maybe that was a clear coat. It definitely would tarnish without it. I’m still anxious to see how the lettering turns out.
Click to expand...
This is an actual pic of the job:
9uMlAqH.jpg
 
Chrisxo55441 said:
would the shine on that go dull after a few months? my TD 147 platter is polished and it goes dull after a few months and i have to polish it. that could be problematic with lettering on it.
Click to expand...
If this it aluminium, the polished finish oxides quickly, you must protect it (anodized, veneer, anodized paint)
 
Last edited:
jFF_Bulbo said:
Yes! It looks like a Mc! Also Jadis use this finish, as you Say, the polished aluminium is too easy to scratch and fingerprints are a pain in the back.
I like that look! But i have brushed it and cover with transparent veneer.
qgL87iR.jpg


This is an actual pic of the job:
9uMlAqH.jpg
Click to expand...
That pic shows printing on some kind of transparency. How do you transfer that, and what kind of ink/paint do you use?
 
I re-did the top edge on a beatup Pioneer SX which are a pretty similar finish to a 2270. I sanded the scratches out and then sanded with a block using a jig to keep the sanding running parallel to the surface. This is important as it is difficult to sand in a consistent direction by hand. I think I used 150 grit but you may need rougher and I finished with scotchbrite. I then coated with clear-coat epoxy (Rustoleum) but if doing a whole front I'd consider using 2-pack paint such as Spaymax 2k which is much more durable. For those with etched letters, I also redid the Pioneers's etched lettering on the front as it had been covered in black spray paint by someone. I removed all the paint including in the etched letters using acetone and then cleaned and dried. Using a small brush I dabbed gloss paint in and around the etched letters (a few at a time) and waited a few minutes for the paint to get tacky and then wiped off the excess with a rag.The paint stayed in the etched grooves although sometimes I needed a second try. Once finished you cannot tell it is a re-paint.
 
I think at this point, I'd just look for one of the aftermarket face plates. A 2270 should be pretty easy to find. Maybe you could send it in to one of these guys/companies and have it laser etched or silk screened. Doesn't hurt to ask.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom