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Marantz 2270 power button sticks "in"

DL Jones

DL Jones

New Member
Just picked up a 2270, and it looks & sounds great! Had been refurb'ed in Nov 2015 - cleaned and adjusted, along with LED upgrade and new speaker terminals. However, the power button sticks "in" when I turn it on. I have to use my fingertips to pop it back out a bit (to where it would normally be when "on"), then push it back in and pull all the way back out to turn it off. Seller said it worked fine when shipped (it went from Canada to the SE USA), and they packed it extremely well, so I'm not sure if it happened in transit or what. In any event, any idea what might be causing this? I can still use it, but would like to have it working as intended.

Gracias,
-d
 
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pretty common issue with marantz receivers my 2245 does the same thing they just wear out. i have never heard of a fix but there are replacements available on ebay. i just use a power strip to turn mine off and on until i bring it in for a recap in the next year or two then i will have the switch replaced.
 
+1 on Echowars suggestion.
Also on some Marantz power button holes there is a small plastic/rubber like guide washer on the back side of the faceplate that also may cause the binding.

Bob
 
Thanks folks! It does feel like there's something non-metallic "grabbing" onto it - like it's sliding through a too-narrow rubber opening or something, so it may well be the washer as @wlhd1610 suggests. Will pop the faceplate off once I have some time to mess with it.

I'll just add that to my list of weekend projects :) along with:
Making a clock out of an unsalvageable B&O turntable;
DeOxit & clean-up work on a lil Kenwood KA-5700;
DeOxit & clean-up work on a Pioneer SG-9800 EQ.
 
Sometimes if you push the switch to bottoming out, then flick the finger off real fast holding your mouth just right it will release. If this occurs the switch may work for a bit but I'd recommend just replacing it.


Barney
 
Oerets said:
Sometimes if you push the switch to bottoming out, then flick the finger off real fast holding your mouth just right it will release. If this occurs the switch may work for a bit but I'd recommend just replacing it.


Barney
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I tried grimacing, smiling, frowning, nothing worked. But I know what you mean - did the fast-finger-flick and it didn't have the oomph to pop back out on its own. Will see what's up when I get the faceplate off. Thanks!
 
Hard to argue much with the price...better than the guy buying $3 switches from Digikey and selling them for $25 on eBay.

Might mention kaplang, that eBay links are prohibited in the open forums (except in Dollars and Sense). By all means, you can post the item number (that one is #331685399249), but full links are out of bounds.
 
OP, have you resolve this issue yet?

The power switch on my 2270 was "binding" and would intermittently decide not to release or would not stay in the on position.
The grease on the switch had dried out preventing it from moving and locking properly. I cleaned the old grease off applied new grease and it works perfectly.
 
ooba tooba said:
:thumbsup:
Would like to see that clock when completed
Click to expand...

I reckon I'm about 80% done, since I only get over to Lowe's once every few weeks...and have consistently miscalculated the size / length etc of the various nuts and bolts I'd need to put it back together after stripping out all the internals that I could to lighten it up and make room for the clock innards. Looking for a cheap machined aluminum 45 adapter to finish off the front, then get the clock innards with big red hands (to kinda go with the "red stripe" theme that was present on the speakers). Debated putting an actual LP on the front, but decided against it since I'd be stuck with it forever as the clock face...plus the metal platter makes a way cooler looking face IMO.
 
Rasputin47 said:
OP, have you resolve this issue yet?

The power switch on my 2270 was "binding" and would intermittently decide not to release or would not stay in the on position.
The grease on the switch had dried out preventing it from moving and locking properly. I cleaned the old grease off applied new grease and it works perfectly.
Click to expand...

I'll definitely check this out - thank you! Is there a specific type of grease I should use, if that ends up being the issue?
 
DL Jones, I use a synthetic grease called Super Lube that works very well that I also use on the dial pointer tracks.
I used a non-residue contact cleaner to remove the old dried up grease.
I fixed another binding switch the same way, but, in both cases the switches were in otherwise good working condition.
 
ooba tooba said:
Sweet! It would be really cool to somehow use a tonearm as one of the clock hands.
Click to expand...

Well, finally finished it...mainly because I got tired of trying to make it "perfect" and it ended up just being "usable." I wanted bigger clock hands but couldn't find a kit with larger hands. I also wanted to put an aluminum 45 RPM adapter in the middle, but the hole was too small for the clock spindle. And the spindle was too short so I had to bend the clock hands by hand. It ended up being a much bigger PITA than I thought to gut it and put it back together, and was several trips to Lowe's in the making. I still need to attach a couple of brackets to the back so it can be hung on a wall, and maybe cut a hole in the back to access the clock battery, but it's only 2 screws holding the back on so no big deal to change the battery every year or two.
 

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Very common to have power switches go bad on 2230, 2245, 2270's. Fairly easy to replace...done dozens over the years. Once in a while the black plastic grommet will come lose from the face plate, and can bind with any of the face plate controls.

Go ahead and replace power switch. At most, a $20 bill.
 
Shain said:
Very common to have power switches go bad on 2230, 2245, 2270's. Fairly easy to replace...done dozens over the years. Once in a while the black plastic grommet will come lose from the face plate, and can bind with any of the face plate controls.

Go ahead and replace power switch. At most, a $20 bill.
Click to expand...

Thanks Shain! I intend to...when I have a bit of time, and a source for an OEM or "exact" replacement. I don't want to change the look at all (e.g.: no aftermarket toggle switches etc).


ooba tooba said:
That turned out really nice! I would proudly hang that in my music room:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Thank you! If I had to do it again, I probably wouldn't.
 
Bert 1100 said:
Nice ! How about gluing a stylus on the end of the minute arm ? :D
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Oh you! Ya know, that would be a very Christian Marclay sort of thing to do - put styli on the clock hands, and a record on the front and hook it up...see how the record plays with 3 styli simultaneously running at different speeds (H, M and S).
 
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