Does any one know if a WC-22 case will fit a 2285b. I checked with clasic and it said that it is suposed to have a WC-122, But I have seen some with the wc-22 case,isnt the wc-122 the case that has the seperate side panels, if so I can see why they would what to use a Wc-22 case anyone know thanks tomefs
Marantz 2285b fit WC-22
- Thread starter tomefs
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
onepixel
.
There are two version of the WC-22. The WC-22 and WC-22U.
They look identical but the bottom, especially the screw holes for the feet are different.
On my black/blue (2250B & 2275) faced receivers the bottom of the cabinet has 3 openings that are symmetrical. The ones on the sliver/blues 2238B & 2265B have one opening on one side. From the front they are identical.
The doc that came with my 2250B says its a WC-22U. Then there is the WC-10-U. I have no clue.
The WC-122 is the "side panel" case. 2 sides with a flat top that slides on. The silver/blue tapedecks also have this type of case.
We probably need an ID that Marantz Case sticky or something.
Good luck.
They look identical but the bottom, especially the screw holes for the feet are different.
On my black/blue (2250B & 2275) faced receivers the bottom of the cabinet has 3 openings that are symmetrical. The ones on the sliver/blues 2238B & 2265B have one opening on one side. From the front they are identical.
The doc that came with my 2250B says its a WC-22U. Then there is the WC-10-U. I have no clue.
The WC-122 is the "side panel" case. 2 sides with a flat top that slides on. The silver/blue tapedecks also have this type of case.
We probably need an ID that Marantz Case sticky or something.
Good luck.
Tomefs, I have a 2285B with the stock cabinet and would be more than happy to provide you with any info or photos you may need get your questions answered. I have no idea what model cab is on my 2285B, but it is wraparound with bevelled front and I have always assumed it was a WC-22.
Let me know how I can help.
PS! I have noticed that you varnish/lacquer/shellac (or some such surface application) your cabinets: I believe you may be able broaden your market by offering an unfinished cabinet, as an oiled/waxed cabinet is much simpler to maintain than one with a surface finish. Case in point is my WC-22 (?) - it is somewhat faded in one spot, but there is no way I am going to strip off the finish to fix it. However, if the cab had been oiled, it would have been extremely simple to re-fresh the finish.
PPS! My buddy needs a cab for a 2385 (WC-123, 124?). Let me know if you supply these.
Let me know how I can help.
PS! I have noticed that you varnish/lacquer/shellac (or some such surface application) your cabinets: I believe you may be able broaden your market by offering an unfinished cabinet, as an oiled/waxed cabinet is much simpler to maintain than one with a surface finish. Case in point is my WC-22 (?) - it is somewhat faded in one spot, but there is no way I am going to strip off the finish to fix it. However, if the cab had been oiled, it would have been extremely simple to re-fresh the finish.
PPS! My buddy needs a cab for a 2385 (WC-123, 124?). Let me know if you supply these.
Attachments
Thanks for the reply. If you could tell me what the measurements are for the feet, like from the front 2 inches in and 1.5 inches from the sides Also the back feet but use the front as a reference because my case may not be the same depth as the one you have it my be a little deeper. Also the case inside height,not where the faceplate goes but the main body also the main body width. I just try to make my cases to look like they would when they were new.The cases are lacquered Since my cases are brand new they should still look good for many years and there should be no need to do any upkeep other then dusting and damp wiping. I do plan on making some unfinished ones Thanks tomefs
The amp is at work: Give me a few days and I will provide you with those measurements to this thread for everyone's benefit.
fazman
Active Member
Just wanted to say that the pic of the 2285b receiver you got there is my vote for probably the nicest looking receiver there is period. Everything about it is perfect. Some of the bigger"B" versions look like they ate too much for breakfast. This one looks well proportioned.
onepixel
.
btw...the 2238B, 2252B, 2265B and 2285B have all the same dimensions and even share the same faceplate. If you look on the back side of the smaller receiver's faceplates you will find all cut out holes for the larger models.
Njord,
If you could post a pic of the bottom of your 2285B's woodcase that would be cool. I can show the different versions I have and we can compare notes.
Carl
Njord,
If you could post a pic of the bottom of your 2285B's woodcase that would be cool. I can show the different versions I have and we can compare notes.
Carl
Thank you! My 11 year old and I were just admiring the photos, the amp being at a different location and all, after I had posted: He told me he wants it for his room.......
That's what I thought, too.
I will take a photo while I'm at it, Carl.
N-i-c-e specimen and photography, Carl! I have always wondered why the function button labels (Phono, AM, FM, Phono etc.) are white on some B's (like your 2265) and blue on some (like my 2285).
Theoberheim
Knobby | Knoisy | Knice
Model 2252b and a WC-22
Though the WC-122's are built for the 2238b, 2252B, 2265B, 2285b (and others), as we can see from the photos posted...you CAN wedge one of these receivers into a WC-22. However, they are not built for it.
For those that managed to insert a one of these B models into a WC-22, did any of you have to remove the black housing that surrounds the unit?
I did, I also had to set the feet aside because the holes did not line up. (I guess that does not matter if you have the felt pads).
Though the WC-122's are built for the 2238b, 2252B, 2265B, 2285b (and others), as we can see from the photos posted...you CAN wedge one of these receivers into a WC-22. However, they are not built for it.
For those that managed to insert a one of these B models into a WC-22, did any of you have to remove the black housing that surrounds the unit?
I did, I also had to set the feet aside because the holes did not line up. (I guess that does not matter if you have the felt pads).
WC-22 (?) cab for 2285B.
From my understanding, the cabinet for the 22xx series was either sold as "from factory" or as a dealer option. If from factory, the amp was delivered without the steel case (which was cheaper for the factory and provided for better ventilation). If dealer option, the amp came with both the steel casing and the wood cabinet - presumably because the customer already had paid for a complete unit.
Mine does not have the inner case, so presumably mine is a factory option.
Here are the dimensions (inches) for the what is presumably a WC-22 cab for my 2285B:
Cab external dimensions :
18 1/2 x depth x 6 1/2
Cab internal dimensions:
17 x depth x 5 1/8
I will measure the depth once more (approx. 15.5")- I didn't get it right the first time.
The cabinet "hangs out" from the back plate of the receiver by about 3/4", effectively providing some protection for the AM antenna, etc.
Location of feet: All four are 3.5" from the side of the cabinet. Front feet are 2 3/8" from the front lip. Rear feet are 14 1/8" from the front lip.
Attached is a photo of the underside.
Regards,
From my understanding, the cabinet for the 22xx series was either sold as "from factory" or as a dealer option. If from factory, the amp was delivered without the steel case (which was cheaper for the factory and provided for better ventilation). If dealer option, the amp came with both the steel casing and the wood cabinet - presumably because the customer already had paid for a complete unit.
Mine does not have the inner case, so presumably mine is a factory option.
Here are the dimensions (inches) for the what is presumably a WC-22 cab for my 2285B:
Cab external dimensions :
18 1/2 x depth x 6 1/2
Cab internal dimensions:
17 x depth x 5 1/8
I will measure the depth once more (approx. 15.5")- I didn't get it right the first time.
The cabinet "hangs out" from the back plate of the receiver by about 3/4", effectively providing some protection for the AM antenna, etc.
Location of feet: All four are 3.5" from the side of the cabinet. Front feet are 2 3/8" from the front lip. Rear feet are 14 1/8" from the front lip.
Attached is a photo of the underside.
Regards,
Attachments
Arkay
Lunatic Member
Fascinating stuff!
I took a case off of a 2275 and stuck a 2285B into it. Fits fine, works fine. I then took a case off of a 2252B that someone had painted black, and put the 2275 into it. Again, no problems. The black case sets off the black dial surround (instead of the silver one on the "B" models) very well; looks different from the usual wood look, but I like it very much; goes especially well with black-and-silver gear like the Sansui AU-9500. [Am I allowed to mention that in this forum? Hehe]
Of course, now I still need a case for that 2252B...
I took a case off of a 2275 and stuck a 2285B into it. Fits fine, works fine. I then took a case off of a 2252B that someone had painted black, and put the 2275 into it. Again, no problems. The black case sets off the black dial surround (instead of the silver one on the "B" models) very well; looks different from the usual wood look, but I like it very much; goes especially well with black-and-silver gear like the Sansui AU-9500. [Am I allowed to mention that in this forum? Hehe]
Of course, now I still need a case for that 2252B...
Keep an eye out on eBay. I bought a NIB WC-122 for my 2252B. Original carton, wood pieces still sealed in the plastic. I had never seen one before, and neither had Grumpy. He chuckled at me when I opened it. "But I bought it to USE!"
Correct depth is 15 3/8".
Can you confirm that the 2285B cabinet I have posted the dimensions for above is indeed a stock WC-22 cabinet, which was the specific query of the original post?
Thanks.
onepixel
.
Hey Ernie,
How different is the WC-122 from the WC-22s? Was I wrong when I said it was the "side panel" type case?
Thanks,
Carl
Redtail
Active Member
to all you guys using cases - is there any truth to the rumor that they make the receiver run hotter and shorten the lifespan of caps and whatnot? I'd really really like to get (or make) a wood case for my 2285 but I don't want to hurt the receiver in anyway.
Do you take off the metal case for better cooling or leave it on so you don't lose it? Thanks.
Do you take off the metal case for better cooling or leave it on so you don't lose it? Thanks.