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Marantz 4300... no right channel, literally

Richs_Trains

Well-Known Member
Hey Guys,

Picked up a Marantz 4300 and the volume control did not work and it only had the left channel. Found the 'local/remote' switch in remote, so that brought the volume, but upon closer inspection, the right channel plug in amp board is missing. Is there any souce for one of these, or do I just have to wait till someone chops one up? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rich
 
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right when looking from the front of the receiver? Tonebells, what other parts do you have from a 4300? have a cover?

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Any update?

tonebells, here is the update from my tech, I couldn't get it going. The amp board you sent had good outputs, but the board itself caused a failure when it was installed and I could not trace the problem so I sent it to the Marantz guy I used.

Here’s an update on the 4300. The right rear channel had 30 volts offset. On the right channel driver board, there are 4 transistors, h707,8,9,10, 2sc627, small round metal cans with heat sinks on them. A quick check with my analog meter showed that they were not normal, although with a digital meter in the diode test mode, they appeared ok. When I removed them, one leg of one of them fell off. I discovered that when they attached the heat sinks to the transistors, they used a glue, and on 3 of them, the glue had gotten onto the transistor leads, corroding them. I checked the left bank but, the glue was not present on the leads. I don’t like the way they test, so I have ordered some replacements. I used NTE 154’s for the right channel (bought all the local guy had) and have ordered 2n3440’s for the left. The Right front channel dc balance would not zero, swapping the differential pair solved that. The rear left channel indeed had no pre-out. Finally determined that the signal was getting lost on the pe01 board. Leaky transistor he14. Thought I had her all done, but discovered that 3 of the 4 channels are noisy (white noise and rumbling at zero volume, tone controls do affect). I had hoped it would turn out to be noisy transistors on the pe01 board, but it is not. I believe it is coming from the pd01 board, which is a bear to get to. Have to remove the front panel and pull the tone control/board assy. to get to it.

Thanks Rich
 
Rich,

Please let me know what the hiss noise ends up being since my 4300 is doing the same thing.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Please let me know what the hiss noise ends up being since my 4300 is doing the same thing.
Mike,

Here's the reply from my tech, Brad.
Hi Rich! Spent a good portion of Monday repairing the output relays on the 4300, What a pain in the rear. Got the new transistors in yesterday for the tone amp. The 2sc1345’s which are used in the buffer/preamp (PE01) assy. And the tone amp (PD01) assy. Were the problem. Noisy. Only 1 channel was not noisy. Replaced them all. Nice and quiet now. The PD01 board is the one standing off of the PF01/tone control board and is kind of a pain to get to. Have to remove the front panel and the tone controls, dismount the PE01 board and de-solder the tabs connecting the 2 boards (for the AK guy). Not much room to work. Have a few other things to tidy up on it. Hope to get it done tomorrow. Brad

Good luck Mike .... Rich
 
Thanks. That is exactly what I needed to know.

I'm just the middleman, Brad @ Precision Video/Audio (PreVid on AK) is the repair guru. I have failed to stump him, he doesn't really do restorations per se, but I think he could fix just about anything you throw at him. Good luck on your repair, it was obviously beyond me, looking forward to getting it back. Rich
 
4300 came back from Precision Video / Audio today. It had several issues with the purchased right power amp, several drivers bad and some drivers on board PE01 that was causing noise, all found and fixed by Previd. The long delay on the relay turned out to be the wrong timing cap, a 220uf instead of a 22uf. When I purchased it, the relay was 45 seconds to 1 minute before it clicked in (so the wrong cap was present already) and I posed the question here. I re-capped the power supply as suggested, but I went value for value as I removed them (didn't consult the SM, my bad). Someone must have changed the timing cap previously and I followed up with the wrong cap also. Anyway, it sounds great, relay clicks a few seconds after power up and it's whisper quiet. Thanks AK for all your help and thank Previd for finding what I could not! Rich

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