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Marantz Faceplate Re-Lettering

hirscwi

hirscwi

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Has anyone had success re-lettering a Marantz faceplate? I have a 2245 that is missing much of its lettering. I suspect that I could get it silkscreened but that would likely be expensive.

I seem to have read somewhere, a few years ago, about a technique that involved printing onto a transfer sheet (the kind you would use for fabric) and successfully transferring this to the faceplate (after carefully removing all lettering).

Has anyone heard of this? Does it work? Any other approaches?
 
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Thanks, this is very helpful. I am not familiar with the transfer paper referred to in these threads. Where do I find it? Also does it work with an inkjet printer or does it need to be a laser printer?
 
I knew that RadioDaze will make replacement glass for the dial but I didn't realize they would also do faceplates. There is an outfit online that will soon be offering replacement faceplates (2270 is their first) but I can't remember the website. I seem to recall that the price is $100 or $125. However, being a cheapskate, and committed DIY'er, I'd like to tackle one myself.
 
That site has advertized the new faceplates for years now! They are starting with a couple of higher end models but not the 2245 at least to start.

Look here
 
Well, I'm obviously out of date. Can you let me know the URL for the site - I can't remember it.
 
These were originally printed using the serigraphy method (or silkscreen). If they all were engraved, these would be so much easier to restore.
To do this right, a competent screen printer would need to do the re-screen right on the face.
One idea would be to use a fine cut stencil well adhered, and spray enamel used. Anything else is going to be easily damaged and/or recognized as an amateur repair.
 
I like the stencil idea. I have a couple projects - in one case, almost all of the lettering is damaged, but in the other, only a few words are missing. So a stencil could be selective. But how to make the stencil is the question for me.
 
Technology has changed the printing mind-set of us all, so that the old ways can either be forgotten, or never known. I learned the art of printing just in time to see it all change. Bittersweet.

Squeezing my little brain some more... IMO The best resolution for a stencil would be from a photo resist etch to create a punch, then multiples can be created from thin polymer sheet & you are in business.

As I pondered this question, you might also consider a quick & dirty solution using a "deep cut" custom rubber stamp with aluminum friendly ink/paint. Making a jig for alignment would set you up for multiples. Each stamp would deteriorate after a few uses.
 
Thanks. That stamp idea seems like a very good way to make small, low volume repairs (which is just what I need). I assume it would not be difficult to find a stamp-maker. I would provide the proper lettering. I believe there was a post earlier in this thread that referred to another thread in which the lettering/font issue was addressed successfully.
 
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