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Marantz LS-16A Speaker protection ciruit breaker. See pics.

T

TX-9100

Active Member
IMG_20201202_152345478 (5).jpg

Hi I need help. I dont know the type and vallues of this protection component the black 'domino stone' on the crossover of one of my Mrantz LS-16A's. Thre is no value on it. Nada! And i cant find a service manual anywere! Let alone a parts list with values! It only says A - 08 4401 and googling it doesnt help!
Anybody? Were to buy what value or an alternative the breaker protects the mid and tweeter drivers only!

Much obliged,
 
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It looks almost like a micro relay, or switch. Enough voltage and the relay trips. It doesn't look like any thermistor or poly switch I've seen. Most of the small micro switches I've seen, or ordered for a company I worked for, looked very similar with the two rivets on diagonal corners.
 
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It could be a "0.8" ampere circuit breaker.... I think a fuse or polyswitch could do that job. A fuse will have less distortion. But you need to replace it every time it blows (perhaps you need to do some tries before finding the right value since you don't have a datasheet of the original part)

Or, search here for a similar part (no affiliation) , search for speaker circuit breaker https://www.parts-express.com/
 
Check here (no affiliation)

https://dynavox.com/0.5-Amp-Automatic-Circuit-Breaker

From that site : "
Automatic resetting circuit breaker for speaker systems can be used for whole systems or individual components (tweeters for example).
Thermally opens when power level reaches 200% of rated hold current for 5 seconds.
Power levels ratings are estimated and given for an 8 ohm load."
 
All of you thx for your input / response.
It protects tweeter AND midrange it's blown on both speakers. When I got the speakers I just bi-passed this "unresetable ' breaker, and mid and tweeter drivers work again. Before that thus -with the blown breaker in circuit - only the Woofers played. Tweeters and midranges were completely dead no hiss, nothing! But I want offcourse the protection back. Hence the blown protection (thingy) in both speakers have done there job very well before I got these speakers course mid and tweeters were not damaged by shorting or overloading these speakers!
Thanks for links s
elnaldo said:
It could be a "0.8" ampere circuit breaker.... I think a fuse or polyswitch could do that job. A fuse will have less distortion. But you need to replace it every time it blows (perhaps you need to do some tries before finding the right value since you don't have a datasheet of the original part)

Or, search here for a similar part (no affiliation) , search for speaker circuit breaker https://www.parts-express.com/
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Thx I thinks so after googling and reading the response here that that would make most sense. But if indeed 0.8 amp are there voltages / watts etc I have to take in mind. Or is it one fits all if right amperage version installed ?
 
And also for everybody else thx for input I will check all links / options.
I'll get back to it, when and what type protection I have installed.
But if somebody has the exact answer from for example a manual or marantz parts list. I would be even happier ;-)
I think I'm going to give Marantz a call also. 33 years later, aftersales service, spare parts still must be abundant at Marantz HQ ;-). I also tried to call Napa, but they hang up on me immediately.
 
A properly rated fuse should work also. Polk for one used fuses, then went to those drifty poly switches. I get having something that will reset, and not having to keep fuses on hand or having to turn the speaker around to replace them. But when the breakers, poly switches or thermistors fail or degrade, you have to dig into the speaker to replace them. I've always liked fuses mounted on the back. Another safety device is a light bulb. Realistic used them in a few speakers along with Bose. If the filament heats up enough you get more resistance. Much like a dim bulb tester. Too much, the filament goes open.
 
Lavane said:
A properly rated fuse should work also. Polk for one used fuses, then went to those drifty poly switches. I get having something that will reset, and not having to keep fuses on hand or having to turn the speaker around to replace them. But when the breakers, poly switches or thermistors fail or degrade, you have to dig into the speaker to replace them. I've always liked fuses mounted on the back. Another safety device is a light bulb. Realistic used them in a few speakers along with Bose. If the filament heats up enough you get more resistance. Much like a dim bulb tester. Too much, the filament goes open.
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Ok I keep that in mind thx!
 
Hi litle update. Although the speaker protection is not replaced by a new matching part / protection typoe of any kind, I have just finished refoaming my Speakers ;-) See pics.

IMG_20210202_183217177.jpg IMG_20210202_204930704.jpg IMG_20210202_205052909.jpg
 
They look nice ! You can jump the protection and enjoy the speakers.

Btw, I'm sure those speakers will sound much better if raised 30 or 40cm off the floor. (12" or more)
 
elnaldo said:
They look nice ! You can jump the protection and enjoy the speakers.

Btw, I'm sure those speakers will sound much better if raised 30 or 40cm off the floor. (12" or more)
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I already bypassed the protection. However i wait using them routinely till I have the same type of, or other type of protection re-installed .
 
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