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Marantz receiver + Hiby DAP

Philbin

New Member
Hi all,

I have an originally purchased 1977 Marantz 2252 receiver, driving MA-1 speakers. It handles my Denon CD player well, as well as vinyl on an original Sony direct drive turntable, and even the output from a Sony Flat screen TV, but it will not perform with a portable music player, such as an iPod Classic or Hiby R6 Pro.

Inside the Marantz as the volume is advanced (either using the iPod or R6 volume controls or the Marantz volume control), at a certain level *something happens* and there is an easily discernible 'click' inside the unit, at which point the volume drops to near silence. Backing off the volume elicits another `click' at which point the volume returns. The cut out happens at a lower volume than is comfortable for listening, and the sound quality of that signal is very "tinny" and unpleasant.

If the level is left at that cut out point, the volume will intermittently cut out and back in as the level swells and recedes with the progression of the music. It's as if there is some boundary that the inputs from the portables are bumping up against.

The Hiby R6 Pro exhibits the same characteristics, but at a higher volume level than the iPod, as if the R6 is putting out more power than the old iPod, but not enough to push the sound through the Marantz, and the receiver is protecting itself by tripping that relay. It may all be a construct of my imagination, seeing as how I have very little knowledge of electronics.

My question boils down to this: Does the R6 Pro need a DAC to talk to the analog Marantz? Does the R6 Pro need a pre-amp to provide enough signal for the Marantz? Are one or both (or neither) of these needed? The R6 Pro plays fine through the car's stereo via the aux input, but I assume there is a DAC in the dash, since it has a CD player.

AFAIK, the Marantz is still in proper working order, as evidenced by it handling the non-portable inputs. Any advice you could give this fossil would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Philbin
 
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Seems like the portables are putting out too high of a signal, which is odd because I find that typically they have low output signals.
Ya, the click is the safety relay protecting the unit. Not a good thing to let it cycle that on and off too much.

So, lets say CD player is wired to AUX input. You set marantz volume to 12 oclock. All is good?
Now with portable wired up to AUX - same volume at 12 oclock - if safety is activating, then there is either too much signal from portables or cable is faulty.
 
Never would have thought of there being too much signal, but that makes sense with the tripping of the protection relay. Have tried several cables with same effect, so that's out. Usual volume on a CD is 10-11 o'clock. Higher if necessary, but not often. Cut out with one of the portables is higher, like 2-3 o'clock, but the volume is very much less loud, then cuts to silence.

I'm stumped. If it didn't play everything else so well, I would think it was the 2252.
 
That's a clue there~
"Cut out with one of the portables is higher, like 2-3 o'clock, but the volume is very much less loud".
With the actual output from the unit being less volume with that portable, that stumps me.
So, you can hit that same 2-3 oclock (which should be pretty darn loud) with the CD player?
I can't figure it out - if you have the tools, I'd measure the CD signal output and adjust the portable to match. If the problem still exists -then I don't know.
 
Philbin, I have a 2252 also. Run the CD/phone/computer through a Schiit MM3 to Aux. Did a test with my iPhone straight into Aux with just a split RCA and Lightning dongle to the phone. Sounded fine, good and loud at 11 o'clock. Would imagine the iPhone and iPod are sending the same signal strength to the 2252.

This is a wyrd deal. I've heard of iPhone/Pad's having problems not sending enough signal/saying something like “Cannot Use Device: The connected USB device requires too much power.” https://www.pocketables.com/2013/02...e-when-using-the-ipad-usb-camera-adapter.html

Have you tried plugging the iPod into a different input (sorry if I missed you saying so)? Tape 1 or 2?
 
Thanks, JJ.

Yes, I've tried every open input, but every one of them gives the same result - a cut out at a certain volume level, and a rather tinny sound. I figured it was something like the time I blew a transformer trying to run a leaf blower on a too-long extension cord - causing a voltage drop that fried the transformer. I thought maybe the cut out was a protective relay to prevent this from happening when a low voltage device was tried on the 2252.

Now, I'm not so sure, given what Dingman said above.

What kind of beast is a Schiit MM3? A DAC, or an amp, or what?

There is also this thread that is over my head from (ahem) another website:

https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/57846-old-person-asking-a-dumb-question-please/

Not sure what to think now. Where have you gone Joe Dimaggio?

EDIT:

I'm trying to drive regular large home stereo speakers (MA-1's), not head phones. Could this make a difference? Like I said above, every other source (CD, turntable, TV) play just fine.
 
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As mentioned earlier, I run my CD player, iPhone or computer through this relatively inexpensive DAC (digital>analog converter). https://www.schiit.com/products/modi-1

You would also need a cable from your portable to USB/B to connect to the DAC. Unless your CD player is a pretty recent model, the DAC will likely be an upgrade to the chipset in the CD player.
 
Thanks, JJ.

Yes, I've tried every open input, but every one of them gives the same result - a cut out at a certain volume level, and a rather tinny sound. I figured it was something like the time I blew a transformer trying to run a leaf blower on a too-long extension cord - causing a voltage drop that fried the transformer. I thought maybe the cut out was a protective relay to prevent this from happening when a low voltage device was tried on the 2252.

Now, I'm not so sure, given what Dingman said above.

What kind of beast is a Schiit MM3? A DAC, or an amp, or what?

There is also this thread that is over my head from (ahem) another website:

https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/57846-old-person-asking-a-dumb-question-please/

Not sure what to think now. Where have you gone Joe Dimaggio?

EDIT:

I'm trying to drive regular large home stereo speakers (MA-1's), not head phones. Could this make a difference? Like I said above, every other source (CD, turntable, TV) play just fine.

Schiit Modi Multibit 3 is a DAC. It's the reason I tested my unit with the cord to split RCAs, as I'd always gotten the conversion to analog through the MM3 without any problems. Mine worked with the simple cord, phone DAC, so it's strange your's works fine except for a portable.
 
I now think there is something wrong with the 2252. I just noticed that it is doing the cut-out thing with the usual audio input from the TV. So the poor thing is busted, I'm afraid.

I'd like to get the unit renovated, rebuilt, restored (whatever the right word is), but there is no one in this area that does that work. DO you know of anyone on this website that does it?

I'd hate to give up on this Marantz. It''s part of the family.
 
Near Atlanta, GA
I was pointed this way by a fellow member, I am Atlanta based and work on these as a hobby, Amplifier and Preamplifier issues tend to be my specialty and I hate dealing with tuners.

From the sound of it at a certain volume your receiver is going into protection, my bet is that you have a bad Capacitor in the preamp alowing DC into the signal which then gets amplified until the receiver goes into protection to save your speakers.
Hard to say without seeing it though...

I use an iPod with my Marantz all the time and for testing so what you're seeing Is definitely a sign of something awry.
 
Thanks for your reply. I see you own a 2252 also.

Are you saying that you are or are not willing to work on this unit, since it is a receiver?

If you are willing, what would you charge to re-cap it, and take care of any other issues it may have? For instance, the front lights are all out, even after replacement of the bulbs, and the pots are very scratchy, though functional.

If you would like to take this offline, my email is philbin@tutanota.com.
 
To whomever the kind person was that pointed goldswimmerb to me and my dilemma, I am dropping off the Marantz with him to be restored on Friday. He says it will take a couple of months. My humblest thanks for your help, whoever you are. This is a great site!

Cheers.
 
To whomever the kind person was that pointed goldswimmerb to me and my dilemma, I am dropping off the Marantz with him to be restored on Friday. He says it will take a couple of months. My humblest thanks for your help, whoever you are. This is a great site!

Cheers.

It is a great site. Really nice peeps in every direction.

Just finished a recap of my 2252, and Catrafter sent me before and after shots of each board. Those photos were critical to getting it almost completely right on the first go around, with only one short hiccup on my part that the photos helped me figure out. Onwardjames is great as well, offered me an 8" EPI woofer he had, at cost. There are all sorts of people happy to help, including Goldswimmerb.
 
It is a great site. Really nice peeps in every direction.

Just finished a recap of my 2252, and Catrafter sent me before and after shots of each board. Those photos were critical to getting it almost completely right on the first go around, with only one short hiccup on my part that the photos helped me figure out. Onwardjames is great as well, offered me an 8" EPI woofer he had, at cost. There are all sorts of people happy to help, including Goldswimmerb.
I'll probably make a thread for Phil's 2252 once I get it figured out, currently working on moving back to university so chances are it won't be till late next week at the soonest, not expecting it to be too terrible but you know how these things can be.
 
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