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Massive pain to remove an IC?

I bought a second iron for my station. I keep the larger tips like a chisel tip on one for things like this. I heat the solder up with the chisel tip at around 600°-650°F, then use a solder sucker. I stopped using braid because of running into solder that just refused to be removed with it.
 
i don't like to use desoldering braid very much because i have to heat the
connections to much which causes the pads to lift hence the desoldering
gun.there is nothing like the right tool for the job
 
Hi @TrevorBarten

First of all.... i don't get it...
You stated
TrevorBarten said:
I bought a hp oscilloscope and it needed a new battery for the memory chip
Click to expand...
Then you write about a chip you ordered???

To change a memory battary you only need to change a chip if the chip is distroyed in the proces of changing the battary.....(VERY RARE) or is damaged in any other way...
I usally do not replace chips when I replace a battary. SO why remove the Chip in first place?

Second of all... what HP scoop did you buy? Knowing that would might help to get solid information. on changing the battary and/or memory chip.

Thirtly...de-soldering is a bit of an witch-craft these days. It can be a pain in the behind if it is a fully hole metalized board. Desoldering iron with a sucker is the best way to go...
If it is a modern SMD chip with more then 10 pins each side... I would not even think to go in with a regular soldering iron.
A Hot air soldering station is the way to go..

I bet you can find a you tube clip on hot air (de)soldering.... it needs patience...and gradualy heating up of the component. and flux.....and more patience. and in the end it should come out easy...
When it is out you can use litze and a normal soldering iron (25/40 watts) to clean up the board and prep for the new component but be carefull not to damage those small soldering tracks.... it is a hell of job to fix that
 
VintageDutch said:
Hi @TrevorBarten

First of all.... i don't get it...
You stated

Then you write about a chip you ordered???

To change a memory battary you only need to change a chip if the chip is distroyed in the proces of changing the battary.....(VERY RARE) or is damaged in any other way...
I usally do not replace chips when I replace a battary. SO why remove the Chip in first place?

Second of all... what HP scoop did you buy? Knowing that would might help to get solid information. on changing the battary and/or memory chip.

Thirtly...de-soldering is a bit of an witch-craft these days. It can be a pain in the behind if it is a fully hole metalized board. Desoldering iron with a sucker is the best way to go...
If it is a modern SMD chip with more then 10 pins each side... I would not even think to go in with a regular soldering iron.
A Hot air soldering station is the way to go..

I bet you can find a you tube clip on hot air (de)soldering.... it needs patience...and gradualy heating up of the component. and flux.....and more patience. and in the end it should come out easy...
When it is out you can use litze and a normal soldering iron (25/40 watts) to clean up the board and prep for the new component but be carefull not to damage those small soldering tracks.... it is a hell of job to fix that
Click to expand...
It's a hp 54600 scope. The battery is inside of the memroy chip, I know you could just solder a new battery to the correct pins but not only does this still require a removal I also think that having a dead battery inside of a 10 dollar chip is not exactly worth it.
 
TrevorBarten said:
So I don't really know where to post this but I bought a hp oscilloscope and it needed a new battery for the memory chip. I ordered a new chip and figured I'd remove the chip before the new one arrived. I kid you not I must have spent 2 hours just trying to get the thing out. I was fairly confident in my soldering ability before this but damn. I tried hot air at first but that went nowhere. After that I tried with a soldering iron, thin tip and both solder wick and a sucker but I just could not get the solder removed. I know that a soldering gun would be the ultimate solution and I actually have one of those that I still need parts for, but disregarding that option for now is there someone here that cab maybe give me some tips on how to better do this? For reference I tried hot air at around 300-400 c⁰ which might be too hot and I tried my iron at basically only 400-450. I also tried it with a thicker tip and a different iron but it didn't help much. The only thing that helped was cutting the legs short so I could better reach the tin with the wick.
Click to expand...
One of those spring-loaded solder suckers could have worked well for that. Nice thing about them is you heat the board, actuate the solder sucker, and in an instant the solder is gone, and the board trace gets minimal exposure time to damaging, delaminating heat. I use one to good effect.
 
egellings said:
One of those spring-loaded solder suckers could have worked well for that. Nice thing about them is you heat the board, actuate the solder sucker, and in an instant the solder is gone, and the board trace gets minimal exposure time to damaging, delaminating heat. I use one to good effect.
Click to expand...
I tried but that didn't really work.
 
Although I have a suction desoldering station, my go-to with ICs is a Dremel moto-tool with a cutoff disk. Just slice the leads right next to the body of the IC then extract the pins one at a time. Plated through holes like you find on Tek and HP equipment can be a challenge even with a vacuum desoldering tool, and this makes things a lot easier.

Put masking/painters tape around the IC so you don't get dust from cutting on everything, and blow it out good with canned air or a compressor. I've done 40-pin ICs in a couple of minutes with this method with no damage to the PC board.
 
Those old 24 or 28 pin Dallas Semiconductor/Benchmarq RAM/RTC with built-in lithium batteries are annoying. Definition of Planned Obsolescence for anything that uses them. I don't have any HP scopes but known that Tektronix used them a lot, along with PC motherboards. I tried lobotomizing one of them but while successful at removing the battery, the IC drained any battery I hooked up to it, not sure if it was something I did or it was just the way it was.

Cutting pins are not really an option for these DS/BQ modules either, and slather doesn't work - too many pins (usually 24-28 pins). Wick, Chip Qwik, or solder suckers (or lucky lobotomy) are needed.

BTW solder wick - there's a lot of "bad" solder wick out there. If you had bad luck with wick, it's probably:
- old solder wick that corroded. Get fresh wick.
- solder wick that has bad or oxidized flux on it. Add flux.
- solder iron doesn't have enough heat capacity. remember solder wick is a heatsink...
 
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