This discussion needs more focus . . . .
Please at least
consider that around 90% of the sonic character of
any home audio system is determined by a "group" or "sub-system" consisting of the amp, the speaker(s), and the connecting (speaker) cable. Everything else -- hardware, software, even the room (unless it's really just
too small!) -- are secondary factors. This understanding is gospel
to me, borne of literally hundreds, if not thousands of real--life experiences with various audio systems over 50 years. Nevertheless, I'm not asking you to
accept my understanding -- I only asked you to "please consider" it :yes:
Now -- I can live with a fine ss amp, but in the end, always prefer the sound of a tube amp -- with
any speaker. And besides, for longer than most of you remember, we had no choice!! But like all equipment -- especially electronic -- tube amps come with certain "limits" inherent only to tube amps. These "limits" don't have to be deal-breakers, however unless they're addressed when assembling the "sub-system" I mentioned above, you'll be flying blind in terms of being able to evaluate the sonics of what you've put together. And the results/conclusions, as revealed by just the few thoughts/ideas already posted, will not lead you to any confident decision-making
So, asking if an MC275 amp driving a pair of Sonus Faber speakers will make (
insert flowery audio adjective ) sounds, is simply too broad a question. Two honest answers would be: "It might." or "That depends." but neither of them very useful.
So far, the discussion has focused on power (specifically 'headroom'), and some ideas about tube (and fuse!?) rolling. One person
did mention speaker cables (but not what was important to to pay attention to about them.) Mostly there were reports of anecdotal experiences; and as usual, no instructions as to how to structure a meaningful audition.
So, lets get on with it. First and foremost, tube amps have limited damping capability. Those who don't wish to address this problem will tell you: "they have plenty", or "it doesn't matter" :scratch2: but unless you are driving little computer speakers, or small monitors with limited bass extension, you will have to do EVERYTHING YOU CAN to maximize the amount of control (i.e. -- good low-mid and bass transient response) that any tube amp, no matter how powerful, will have over even a modest full-range floorstander.
There are two thing you can do to optimize transient control. (Actually, there are three, but the third involves biamping, and the use of a ss amp for the bass.)
- Cable length: keep the speaker cables as short as possible -- two feet would guarantee preserving (almost all of) your tube amp's limited damping capability (and headroom.) So, except in nearfield listening conditions, with speakers only a few feet apart, putting a stereo amp in the middle will result in cables that are just too long to ensure the best transient response -- so yes, you'll need monoblocks, but not primarily to get more power; rather to preserve damping.
- Cable composition: and to get that last little smidgen of control out of your tube amp, make sure those short cables have low inductance (for electrodynamic speakers) or low capacitance (for electrostatic speakers) and of course low resistance. If you do your research, you'll realize those parameters lead to solid core cables, 10 AWG or larger (for least resistance), and separated runs (to eliminate inductance). Paul Speltz cables would be good but they're not large enough gauge IMO. Better would be the Purist Provectus model, or most of the Virtual Dynamics (r.i.p.) models.
If you will see to these VERY IMPORTANT preliminaries -- instead of like most of the great unwashed -- just hooking up whatever is at hand -- and DECIDING (omg/yikes!) if it "sounds good"!! . . . you might actually be able to make an informed decision -- one that will stand regardless of tube rolling or other tweeking in which you might like to indulge yourself
.
