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MC2105 Disaster! Help me Audiokarma, you're my only hope . . .

Lost Cause

New Member
First time poster, long time lurker. I'm hoping for some gentle guidance on resolving an issue with my MC2015. It has been an eBay/Covid disaster thus far.

With no experience in electronic repairs, and limited tools, just using advice given others on this site I've actually managed to resolve many of the issues. But at least one remains . . .

Remaining Issue:

When gain dial is set above 9 O'Clock, the Right channel puts out distortion though the speaker. The distortion increases as the gain increases, but the sound level stops increasing (both audibly and as displayed on the meter). As if all the increased power is going to increased distortion instead of increased volume.

Running test signals through, the channel seems to be fine at the higher end. I've tested 15khz down to 1khz and I don't seem much issue. However, the lower the sound gets, the worse the distortion (and volume limit) gets.

When I bring the test signal down to 50hz and below, there is clearly some sort of signal issue, as it puts out a thumping sort of sound. At 20hz, the left channel is completely quiet (as its below the speaker's range) but the right channel sounds like a helicopter is hovering outside. Thump, thump, thump, thump . . .

Note that the right channel sounds fine through headphones, whether the speakers are switched on or off.

Left channel sounds fine to my ears, with speakers or headphones.

The Direct/Normal switch doesn't seem to do anything, good or bad. Also, I tried connecting the speakers to the different 4/8/16 ohm hookups, didn't seem to change the issue.

System:

Speakers are Heresy I's. I've also tried small 4ohm speakers to confirm the speakers aren't the issue.

Input sources I've tried (all with the same results) are:
  • iPhone and Amazon Alexa direct to the amp.
  • iPhone though a cheap tube preamp.
  • iPhone though a 1970's Kenwood amp's "main out."
  • iPhone though the tube preamp and then though the Kenwood.
  • FM Radio from the Kenwood amp's "main out."
Other Repairs So Far:

When I first powered up the amp, its sounded fine for a minute and then the fuse below. I went though a few fuses before I realized the issue was not the fuse.

After some testing, I replaced all 3 Motorola transistors on one of the four heatsink output boards. That kept the fuse from blowing.

Next was an issue where the right meter would "peg" when I switched off the speakers. Seemed like there was some sort of short. While I don't have the ability to test transistors, I did a continuity test and two of the remaining Motorola transistors tested as having continuity. So, to be safe (and maintain consistency) I just replaced all 12 of the big Motorola transistors with ON MJ15003G from Allied. Meter issue resolved.

I also switched around the two smaller boards (with smaller transistors) between the heatsinks, to see if that made a difference. Didn't seem to, so I figured those were fine.

Then I noticed the two original 470uf 25v capacitors had been replaced by two mismatched caps, both of which I removed and measured - they were way out of spec. I was hopeful these caps could be the cause of the issue. I replaced them with 470uf 25v Nichicon caps. Didn't seem to make a difference.

On the aesthetic side:
  • I replaced all the broken lamps with LEDs. They look great and are cool to the touch.
  • The blue acrylic covering for the meters had shattered, so I cut my own. They turned out perfect, actually.
  • I've held off dropping $250 on new front glass until I get things resolved.
More Background:

This is my first McIntosh purchase. I had been looking to match an amp up to my second hand Klipsch Heresy I's. While visiting a restaurant in Nashville, I noticed the background music sounded bright and clear. I checked the walls and saw an old pair of Heresies hanging, hooked up to walnut encased McIntosh amp and preamp. I fell in love with the vintage sound then and there.

Then I made the mistake of buying a well priced MC2105 (in Walnut case) off eBay from a seller/scammer in California.

Amp arrived in a thin, overly-large cardboard box, partly crushed, and unprotected by the minimal (and popped) bubble wrap. Front glass was shattered, all the lights broken, complete mess.

Tried to return through eBay, the seller disputed my claims and eBay demanded I get a third-party damage assessment. But by then, the Covid shutdown was in full force. Due to closures, I was not able to get the assessment.

With a muti-month Covid shutdown looming, I embarked on my first electronic repair project. And here I am, surrounded by screws and plates and random parts, hoping for your help!
 
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Hello

Welcome on AK

I think you should change your pseudo because your problem is not a lost cause
I (like some members) can help you if you post some pictures because nobody can imagine exactly what is in front of you
The first thing to understand is :
this is not possible to make repair with controls made with an I-phone, this is the worst way . I know that you have maybe nothing else but I can tell you : don't do that
I need to see with my eyes :
- your right driver boards view components side and then solder side
- each heatsinks of your MC2105 from right channel
- your input pcb where your gain pot are connected
The fact that you said that left channel is working fine is a good info
I am sure that now you will never buy a MCINTOSH which is sold without his original packaging whatever the price is fine for you
 
Unfortunate on the shipping damage.

As @clinic-audio has said, good photos of the driver boards (the ones plugged in between output heatsinks) will help, also the outputs on the heatsinks, and the wirewound/cement resistors on the heatsinks.

2105s do have some well-documented ills from aging / drifting components and improper repairs, you're in good hands.
 
Thanks to you both, C-A and Saturation. Point taken on an iPhone not being the ideal way to transmit test signals. I'm somewhat limited in my toolkit, but I do have a mutimeter (with capacitance testing). Oddly, I also have an Oscilloscope from the '70's, but frankly don't know how it works. After an hour, I did get it to make some cool squiggly lines. :)

Took me a bit to get the suggested pictures, but I will start with photos of the Right Driver Board.

1 - Right Driver Board Front.jpeg 2 - Right Driver Board Back.jpeg 3 - Right Driver Board Resistor.jpeg 4 - Right Driver Board Caps.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 5 - Left Driver Board Front.jpeg
    5 - Left Driver Board Front.jpeg
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  • 6 - Left Driver Board Back.jpeg
    6 - Left Driver Board Back.jpeg
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Here are a few pics of the Left driver board. As I mentioned in my first post, I've switched the Left and Right boards around, but the Right channel continued to have the distortion.
5 - Left Driver Board Front.jpeg 6 - Left Driver Board Back.jpeg
 
In this post, please find pics of the input board. You'll note that the two larger caps are the ones I replaced. Previously there were two mismatched caps.

Also, I can tell the two smaller black caps were added by someone in a prior repair. They are 100uf and 100v.

8 - Input Board Front.jpeg9 - Input Board Side.jpeg10 - Input Board Front Angle.jpeg11 - Input Board Back.jpeg
 
polar.jpg


Are the two blue polarized 10uf caps on the input board supposed to be polarized in the 2105? I believe these may be position C9 and C10. Find the correct service manual for your serial number and determine if those caps are supposed to be polarized.

On at least some of the 2505s (the 50 wpc sister amp) those two caps come from the factory as non-polarized.

Below is from a 2105 service manual. It shows C9 and C10 as non polarized. Not sure if this applies to your specific serial number.

nonpolar.jpg

If those two blue 10uf caps in the 2105 are supposed to be non-polarized, it's unclear what the impact of using polarized caps would be.

Those two blue 10uf caps might not be factory original. Is there a date code printed on the 10uf caps?

Your unit should date to circa 1975. I can tell this because a wire wound resistor has a date code of late 1974 and one of the transistors has an early 1975 date code.

Therefore, if the date on the two blue polarized 10uf caps is significantly later than 1975, that lets you know they are not factory original and were added later by a repair tech.

I would be suspicious that someone who it owned previously might have shotgun replaced the factory electrolytics on the input board with questionable components.
 
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mullard.jpg

There is a heat stress mark on the corner of one of your two 0.47 uf Tropical Fish capacitors (the one next to the radial Nichicon Fine Gold Caps you added).

Are there any splits or cracks on the two striped 0.47 uf Tropical Fish capacitors on the input board?

Mullard Tropical Fish are notorious for developing cracks in the outer package material as they age and those two fish look original to the amp (so they are 45 years old at least).

You can replace them with something like WIMA: MKS4F034704C00JI00

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS4F034704C00JI00?qs=/ha2pyFadujYaCUecPARG3F61RMZY881UDlu5Ov2%2BHCqEwUHylucAhXc5ywBsSHm
 
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The 3600 ohm wire wound rectangular resistor (1974 date code) on the right driver board appears to have what might be heat stress marks. Unclear if that indicates damage. You could desolder one leg and test the resistance with a meter to see if it's still good.

Observation: The caps on the two driver boards look factory original. Those are the Austria Holland branded caps. The two Motorola branded transistors look original and date to 1975.
 
Who is the manufacturer of the two black 100uF 100V caps installed in position C11 and C12 on the input board? They are not factory original.

If it's a mystery Chinese brand capacitor of unknown quality, you could replace it with a capacitor of known good quality.

The original factory value was apparently 100uF 15V.

You could replace them with something high quality like this:

Vishay MAL212018101E3

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MAL212018101E3?qs=/ha2pyFadugGVCwdd6j8l3oziB%2B7xFCh068cjuSC7p610%2B/gSr/d0A==
 
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.

Note that the right channel sounds fine through headphones, whether the speakers are switched on or off.

Left channel sounds fine to my ears, with speakers or headphones.


headphones.jpg

1. So both left and right channel sound fine in headphones?
2. The schematic above suggests the same signal is being sent to the headphones is sent to the autoformers.
3. Have you cleaned the speaker on / off switch contacts and the right channel gain pot?
4. Are R154 and C120 in spec?
 
Very helpful photos. This is a late 043899 board, I'm sure that Patrice will have further comments, I have not seen the darlingtons on a board in this way before.

This has the original 038 & 039 transistors in the square heatsinks, should be replaced and the circuit updated per 044-980 (attached)

Measure all components on these boards during that service, and replace anything suspect or out of spec.

We still need photos of the outputs and the cement resistors, if the resistors are out of spec or the incorrect type they also can cause the unit to go into oscillation and in some cases destroy the driver board components.
 

Attachments

First time poster, long time lurker. I'm hoping for some gentle guidance on resolving an issue with my MC2015. It has been an eBay/Covid disaster thus far.
Wow, it doesn’t get much worse than that. I truly feel terrible for you.
First of all, I hope by now you’ve been able to get your 3rd party inspection. There should be no disputing your claim and establishing who was responsible. I am not understanding how the seller can escape responsibility for such negligence.

The main point I wanted to make was regarding the replacement of the glass. If you have a source for one, you should grab it immediately. Mcintosh only produces these periodically. You may find one sitting on a shelf this week only to find out the last one was sold the following week. Then you may encounter a six month wait. Even if eBay chooses to settle with you and purchase your amp from you, you can always resell it.
Best of luck getting this all straightened out.
 
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The original style glass is from what I am able to find out NLA. What is currently being produced by McIntosh does not have the gold (unlighted) / green (when lighted) lettering anymore.

There is an aftermarket source, not perfect but it appears to be closer to the original than McIntosh is producing, comes from Korea through an ebay seller in Portland, but I'm hoping McIntosh will start producing original-style glass again soon.

If you can find glass that is original (some of us can tell) and has the gold backlit lettering I'd suggest buying it. For now however, I'd consider broken-in-transit glass to be a permanent value reduction on the component.

Also for testing and power-up a current-limiting outlet is a very good idea. Many here like to use a Dim Bulb Tester or DBT which puts a light-bulb in series to indicate a short or other problem that could blow a fuse or cause bigger problems. The fuse is (almost) never the cause, it is an indicator that something is seriously wrong.
 
The original style glass is from what I am able to find out NLA. What is currently being produced by McIntosh does not have the gold (unlighted) / green (when lighted) lettering anymore.
That’s really unfortunate. To the OP, you may check with Audio Classics or Tom Manley at
mcintoshaudio.com to see if there are any OEM items left in their inventory.
 
Tom's site doesn't show any, but AC does. The question is whether they are old enough to have the gold lettering.
 
First, thanks everyone for comments thus far. Very helpful and I'm grateful for the guidance thusfar. I'll try to respond to the questions, but first want to upload the rest of the pics for the heatsinks.

Here's the bottom of the amp:

overview.jpeg

I'll call the heatsink on the bottom of the picture the "outside" heatsink.

So, here's pics of the right channel heatsink, the one on the "outside" starting with the resistors:

resistors on outside heatsink 1 (right).jpeg resistors on outside heatsink 2 (right).jpeg

I don't see any cracks or deterioration of the resistors, but they do look cruddy. I'm guessing I should replace them.

Here's the transistors, which are all new (note that none of these have the Mica, which I think is correct):

trans on outside heatsink (2) (right).jpeg trans on outside heatsink (right).jpeg
 
And here are pics of the "inside" right channel heatsink. This heatsink definitely had an issue early on, as there was a whiff of smoke coming from it when the fuse blew. On testing, one of the transistors had blown, and the resistors looked pretty bad (see last pic). So, I replaced all 3 of the transistors and the resistors. Note the wires colors don't match up, as I had made the rookie mistake of clipping wires instead of de-soldering them off. Live and learn!

Here's the transistors, the top one has the Mica, which I think is correct (and how it was when I opened up the amp):
trans on inside heatsink (right).jpeg


And here are the new resistors:
resistors on inside heatsink (right).jpeg

These are the old resistors I removed, as the looked funky:
Removed Resistors.jpeg
 
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